Lifting Trailer

Finally got the camper home and did first total check over. I guess when the dealer said it was ready to go they ment to the shop not camping. Only one wheel braking as rear axle wires are broke and left front wheel bearing is almost falling off. All spring and equalizer bushings were wore out. So headed to spring shop and got all new parts and got stuff to change to over slung axle setup. Including tax out the door I was just under $90 (which included one axle worth of spare parts) and a couple hours later trailer is about 5" taller. I will add some pictures in the day light as I only get to work once the kids are in bed and it's to dark for pictures then lol.

Huntindog wrote:
At 50.00 for parts, then you must be welding the new perches on, as the Dexter kit is about 100.00 last I checked.

It was less the $50 to buy all parts needed and do work my self. That includes 4 new perches and 8 u bolts.

That was what I got when I brought the trailer home from dealer, with programmer set to mileage and in over drive. I haven't moved TT since then so don't have a lot of testing to figure out mileage.

towdriver, are you getting 16 mpg while towing?? I never get better than 13, and usually it's 11, and in a bad headwind it's 10.

ScottG wrote:
You'll have to figure out if the jacks are long enough. How much extra length is available when they are all the way down?
You can also get longer jacks or just use a some blocks every time.
Personally I have never heard of any handling issues from raising a trailer. Your step may be a bit farther and you may need to bring something to make up the difference...

I concur completely. WE had our TT axles flipped by the dealer first thing and it raised it about 4". They had to realign the WDH. The tongue jack and stablilizers still work fine, although they certainly do have 4" further to reach. So we bring more blocks along and I use one of these to make the tongue jack work go more quickly.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGHVSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the replies. For the WD hitch I don't use one so no big deal there I just have to move my hitch up a couple holes. I had thought of the steps and just figured on building a wooden lower step anyhow for the kids. With my programmer set on mileage I'm averaging between 16-17 mpg and carry enough fuel for 2000m trip so not to worried about it. I priced out required parts while I was a the spring shop and it will cost less then $50 if I do the work myself which isn't bad at all.

I had the dealer lift my trailer and add shocks. We go on some very rough roads with no trouble. Admittedly, we roll at about 5 mph to avoid damage to the suspension, but the clearance is amazing. (I am not sure we have to go so slowly, but I am notoriously over-cautious.)

The only downsides are these:

First, a higher center of gravity. I have not noticed any handling problems as a result, but it has to be true that there is a slightly greater risk of rollover during sharp high speed turns. Bottom line -- it's not a sports car.

Second, the higher trailer must also generate more wind resistance. A lower trailer takes greater advantage of the "wind shadow" of the tow vehicle. Again, I have not seen a measurable difference, but it has to be true.

Third, I have built wooden tripods for my jacks so that they can better stabilize the trailer. Otherwise, they would barely reach the ground and were on "tiptoe," if you can visualize it.

Fourth, the steps are now too high from the ground for DW, who is only 5 feet tall. So we bring a step-stool to help her on that first step.

As Scott said, flipping the axles usually adds about 4" of lift, so break out the tape measure and see what that does to the items you mentioned.

Also know that your WD hitch head will need to go up the same amount to keep the TT towing level. I added a 2" lift to my TT to accommodate LT tires and had to raise the hitch by 2" also. Good news is that you only need to do it once to get it dialed in again. Higher TT also means more wind resistance but you shouldn't have any issues pulling it with your truck.

You'll have to figure out if the jacks are long enough. How much extra length is available when they are all the way down?
You can also get longer jacks or just use a some blocks every time.
Personally I have never heard of any handling issues from raising a trailer. Your step may be a bit farther and you may need to bring something to make up the difference.
Keep in mind you can raise it a bit by using shorter shackles and/or sometimes there is another, lower hole to move the equalizers to. I lifted mine about 2" using those methods.
You may even be able to get a taller equalizer.