I have been reading the multitude of travel trailer tire threads and, embarrassingly, still have a question.We have a Viking 17FQS (single axle) that came with Kenda LoadStar ST 205/75r14 Load Range D and the sticker on the trailer says inflate to 75psi. The tires are coming up on 4 years old and I thought it might be wise to replace before heading out on a few thousand mile trip next month. Having read the good reviews on the Goodyear Endurance and preferring to buy a USA made tire, I looked at my size options. Getting the Endurance in the original equipment size and LR D, the weight rating is 2040 lbs at 65psi, which is less than the original LoadStar at 2200 lbs at 75psi.What I plan to do is move up to the Endurance 215/75r14 LR D, which will then match the original equipment tire’s 2200lb rating, but at the lower 65 psi. There is certainly plenty of room to accommodate the approximately 1/2” increase in diameter. What has me puzzled is the rating on the original tire. Every ST205/75r14 Load Range D tire I looked at, other than the original equipment LoadStar, had the lower 2040 lb at 65 psi rating. There is only one tire from a single manufacturer that meets the original equipment specs.It just seems strange to me. Am I missing something? Do I gain anything going with the Endurance in the slightly larger size? Or is there a down side going fro 75psi to 65 psi, even though both are rated at 2200 lbs?Thanks!John

You're not missing anything. The real question is how much does the trailer weigh? Scale it and make sure a 2200lb tire can handle the axle weight, minus the weight on your tongue.

Tire load size. Personally I would recommend moving up to a "E" rated tire if you have the room with your trailer. I prefer to have extra pay load with my tires even it is more than my trailer needs. I used to run "E" rated tires on my 5th wheel but switched to "G" rated. They felt more stable travling down the road and lasted longer. I replace my tires every 5 yrs. regardless how they look or how much tread is left. Having a blow out with your trailer can be dangerious and do some costly damage to your trailer from my own experience.

It's likely the higher pressure load rating accounting for the difference on the Kenda. I wouldn't overanalyze it. And I wouldn't discount the Kenda tires as good tires. In my small sample size, I've had 2 sets of the same size Kenda Karrier tires, 1 set of C load and the other D load. Both have had no issues and are about 3 and 6 years old respectively. Both sit all year basically save for a handful of days use on each in opposite seasons.You can't really go wrong with either option IMO

I recommend tires that cover the full trailer GVWR. Quick search says GVWR 4251 so the standard 2040 would not cut it for me.I would tend to prefer a tire with standard ratings so that a replacement is easier on the road. I would be looking to go up a size. The 215-14 or the 205-15 would cover the GVWR. Check your clearance.

Grit dog wrote:It's likely the higher pressure load rating accounting for the difference on the Kenda. I wouldn't overanalyze it. And I wouldn't discount the Kenda tires as good tires. In my small sample size, I've had 2 sets of the same size Kenda Karrier tires, 1 set of C load and the other D load. Both have had no issues and are about 3 and 6 years old respectively. Both sit all year basically save for a handful of days use on each in opposite seasons.You can't really go wrong with either option IMOI had Kenda's on motorcycles for decades. Never an issue. They are part of the Cooper brand. Goodyear is purchasing Cooper as we converse.

Load Range D tire confusion | Good Sam Community

Grit_dog
Navigator
Mar 16, 2021
CALandLIN wrote:
If you would like to mimic the RVIA 10% load capacity reserves for 4000# axles, the tires would need to provide 2200# ea.

Never seen a 4000lb rated commonly produced trailer axle. 3500lb (14" wheels stock) and 5200lb (15" wheels stock generally)

$20 says the OP's camper has a 3500lb axle under it, although it's not really germane to the conversation.
CALandLIN
Explorer
Mar 16, 2021
If you would like to mimic the RVIA 10% load capacity reserves for 4000# axles, the tires would need to provide 2200# ea.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Mar 13, 2021
JRscooby wrote:

2 years old? Each tire spends 2 years on the rack, 4 on the ground.
Then they go to a landscaper to use to replace some of the tires from when mower trailers hit curbs.

Bad math on my part.... apologies.
Sjm9911
Explorer
Mar 12, 2021
Grit dog wrote:
Sjm9911 wrote:
Im not into overbuying tires just because they can handle more weight. Going up a size on a single axel is ok but it can lead to more bounce. And dont forget when adding in for weight that the toung takes some of the TT weight off the tires. Both tires will never have the full weight of the TT on them. So the original tires you had selected were more then ok for the TT. Have fun.

True story, there's a limit to the practical benefits of "upgrading" components.
On the boat trailer, which doesn't really go off road and gets "treated" better, I run adequate, not significantly upgraded capacity.
On the sled trailer, I run heavier than needed. Thoughts are, it sits out in the elements year round, and generally gets more abuse when used. Worse roads, forest roads, hidden hazards under the snow, etc. Sometimes lightly loaded, sometimes trailer is stuffed full with 5 machines.
That said, D load vs C for only a couple bucks more is sort of a no brainer. If you don't need the capacity, you don't gotta run full rated tire pressure.

Your correct, some instances it may be better. But i also like to keep it simple , so i always run at the top psi. That way i dont have to keep ajusting to my trips and what i bring. You could also go bias tires for more dispersed camping areas, a lot of the pop up people do that, and say the newer ones are better then years past. Ill stick to my road radials, thats what i do mostly. Works so far. And yea, i have gotten flats, mostly due to nails and screws picked up at the campsites or on the side of the road. In the end its what works for you the best, we all know there are 1500 ways to look at it and mostly, no one is wrong.

Funny story, i did get one load higher on my old pop up camper. Hit a concreate road and man did it bounce. Too light and too much psi. Add to that a single axel. Porpousing at its best. I had to speed up to like 70. Next year i got the TT. That was one of the things on that trip that meade me upgrade.
JRscooby
Explorer II
Mar 12, 2021
Grit dog wrote:
JRscooby wrote:
For my single axle, I buy 1 new tire every other year. If my spare has been used for any time, the new tire is spare. If the spare is 2 years old, it and the new tire go on the ground, the newest off the ground is spare

Wish you were closer, I'd take all your good 2 year old tires and run 'em!

2 years old? Each tire spends 2 years on the rack, 4 on the ground.
Then they go to a landscaper to use to replace some of the tires from when mower trailers hit curbs.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Mar 12, 2021
Sjm9911 wrote:
Lol, blowouts are another animal entirely. Mostly speed and underinflation leading to heat. And tbh, anything you pick up on the side of the road. They happen. Everyone blames the tires and load and such, but they will still happen. Pick up a nail , loose a little air at a time, tire heats up. Best bet , is keep berrings greased, check tires for proper air , and check tempature of the hubs when you stop.

Yup. A quick walkaround each stop if pounding down the road is just too easy. Kick the tires, observe if one looks low, touch each hub.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Mar 12, 2021
Sjm9911 wrote:
Im not into overbuying tires just because they can handle more weight. Going up a size on a single axel is ok but it can lead to more bounce. And dont forget when adding in for weight that the toung takes some of the TT weight off the tires. Both tires will never have the full weight of the TT on them. So the original tires you had selected were more then ok for the TT. Have fun.

True story, there's a limit to the practical benefits of "upgrading" components.
On the boat trailer, which doesn't really go off road and gets "treated" better, I run adequate, not significantly upgraded capacity.
On the sled trailer, I run heavier than needed. Thoughts are, it sits out in the elements year round, and generally gets more abuse when used. Worse roads, forest roads, hidden hazards under the snow, etc. Sometimes lightly loaded, sometimes trailer is stuffed full with 5 machines.
That said, D load vs C for only a couple bucks more is sort of a no brainer. If you don't need the capacity, you don't gotta run full rated tire pressure.
smokindok
Explorer
Mar 12, 2021
Yep! Learned my lesson there. No more bombing down backroads pulling the trailer, at 80mph, in 105 degree Texas heat!

Garnered a little wisdom in my old age... and a TPMS.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Mar 12, 2021
JRscooby wrote:
For my single axle, I buy 1 new tire every other year. If my spare has been used for any time, the new tire is spare. If the spare is 2 years old, it and the new tire go on the ground, the newest off the ground is spare

Wish you were closer, I'd take all your good 2 year old tires and run 'em!
Sjm9911
Explorer
Mar 12, 2021
Lol, blowouts are another animal entirely. Mostly speed and underinflation leading to heat. And tbh, anything you pick up on the side of the road. They happen. Everyone blames the tires and load and such, but they will still happen. Pick up a nail , loose a little air at a time, tire heats up. Best bet , is keep berrings greased, check tires for proper air , and check tempature of the hubs when you stop.

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