Looking for a new travel trailer, where to start?

[Askibum02]

I'm looking for a new travel trailer, and I don't know where to start. My budget is $20-25K, and I'm looking for a bunkhouse trailer with a bunk room, not just bunk beds. Two models that have a floor plan I like are the Forest River Wildwood X-Lite 282QBXL and the Keystone Passport 2920BH. Is there anything about either of those that I should look out for? The Wildwood is Aluminum sided and the Passport is fiberglass sided. Is there another brand that has a similar floor plan that might be better?

[SoundGuy]

Askibum02 wrote:
It would be tight, but I think it would work. According to the yellow sticker on the driver side door jam, the payload is 1582 lbs.

Almost every truck won't really offer as much payload as that yellow sticker driver side door jamb sticker suggests. Add a liner, perhaps a tonneau cover, towing mirrors, or anything else and it all comes off that number. If you really want to know what your particular truck's real world payload capacity is go weigh it with a full tank of gas. If you're in the truck when it's on the scale subtract your weight from the scale reading. The result is how much your particular truck actually weighs as it sits there with a full tank of gas ready to be hitched to a trailer. Subtract that weight from it's GVWR, also listed on the driver's side door jamb, and the result is your particular truck's actual payload capacity - that which you will use to accommodate the weight of everyone and everything in the truck PLUS the weight of your weight distribution system PLUS any trailer tongue weight transferred to the truck once hitched up. Be honest with the numbers and you'll be surprised at just how little your 1/2 ton Silvy has to offer. In my case I'm towing a trailer with an average gross weight of ~ 4800 lbs with an average gross tongue weight of ~ 620 lbs and even with just my wife & I & one big dog in the truck I'm pretty well out of payload capacity. :E

[gmw_photos]

True enough Mike.
An example using my Frontier is the rear axle is manufactured by Dana for Nissan. Dana rates the axle limit higher than Nissan assigns as a rear axle weight limit. Which tell us the axle itself (bearings, etc ) has a higher rating than the truck mfr's rating.

So where is the weak link ? My guess is the spring pack, as Nissan specified a somewhat lighter spring rate, most likely to give a softer ride while empty, since they know that 95% of the users 95% of the time are going to be empty.

How strong is the frame ? Good question, but we do know it is near identical to the earlier version of the Titan frame. Get under them and look with your caliper in hand. The Titan had a higher payload rating than the Frontier.

How about tires ? Well the factory fit tires on the Frontier are rated for over 1000 pounds more than the axle GAWR. So we know that's not the weak link.

This becomes my point in these discussions. A person on an individual level with their specific truck will do well to dig deep in the researching of it all to see just where the "limits" are defined.

I concluded in the case of my Frontier, the likely weak link was the spring pack. This was supported ( pardon the pun ) by real world experience. Is there anything we can do to increase the spring capacity ?
Yes, actually there is, and my choice was to add sumo super blue blocks. They work.
Did this change the little sticker on my door post ? Of course not. But it did change the way the truck carries the load and how it drives and handles.

And no, this change ( sumo blue blocks ) did not add huge numbers of dollars to my truck. So no, I could NOT have gone out and "bought a bigger truck" for the money spent. This is an often stated argument here on the forum. "It's cheaper to just go out and buy a bigger truck". Not in my world it's not.

Real world. That's where I live and operate.

EDIT: ps, nice mods to your trailer Mike.

[lawrosa]

gmw photos wrote:

rbpru wrote:
There are a lot of things you can add to improve the ride, stability and overall comfort of your tow vehicle, but there is nothing you can do to change the axel rating or frame strength.

The vehicle was designed for a certain load bearing capacity. Heavier springs, air bags, etc. do not change the bearings or the frame structure.

But just suppose for a minute the bearings and frame structure are not the weak links in the system ? Let's say, the spring pack is the weak link.
Would increasing the spring packs rate increase the overall capability ?

Thats the thing... You need to find the weak link..

My rear axle is 3750, front 3925

The op's are probably 3950 frt and rear because crew cab.

But we have same door tag of 1500lb payload

I weighed my truck full tank 34 gallons and me 200 lbs in the truck and have 1450 payload left. ( I go by axle weights.)

Scale weight rear 2300 lbs minus 3750 = 1450 - 750 lb tw = 700 lbs I can put in truck.

wife 140
son 1 225
son 2 115lbs = 480 minus 700 = 220 lbs to put stuff in bed.

In bed, bike, solar panel, generator, small compressor, 4 milk crates camper stuff, hoses, pads, fluids for truck, gas can 2 gallon.

Yeah yeah... I was probably a couple hundred over on my trip to florida...

Imagine that I had a heavier camper? NOOOOOOO!!!!!

LT tires are next on my list...

Then smaller camper when I retire in 10 years for just the wife and I..

I already anticipated my oldest son not coming too many times so I cut out the top bunk already on the new 2018 camper... LOLOL ha ha ha..

If older one comes the little one will just sleep on couch...

[gmw_photos]

rbpru wrote:
There are a lot of things you can add to improve the ride, stability and overall comfort of your tow vehicle, but there is nothing you can do to change the axel rating or frame strength.

The vehicle was designed for a certain load bearing capacity. Heavier springs, air bags, etc. do not change the bearings or the frame structure.

But just suppose for a minute the bearings and frame structure are not the weak links in the system ? Let's say, the spring pack is the weak link.
Would increasing the spring packs rate increase the overall capability ?

[Lwiddis]

" According to the yellow sticker on the driver side door jam, the payload is 1582 lbs"

This is whimpy! My 2015 SUV Tahoe is 1,595.

[rbpru]

There are a lot of things you can add to improve the ride, stability and overall comfort of your tow vehicle, but there is nothing you can do to change the axel rating or frame strength.

The vehicle was designed for a certain load bearing capacity. Heavier springs, air bags, etc. do not change the bearings or the frame structure.

[Lwiddis]

"It would be tight, but I think it would work."
"which should be enough"

Think differently than your above comments. Don't push it. Your family's body weight estimation and your idea that nothing will be carried in the TV is...a dream.

[lawrosa]

All I can tell the OP is if he starts light he will be better off..

Example the wildwood he is looking at has a 6200 lb empty weight with a ccc of only 1400 lbs...

If it were me Id be looking at something like this coachmen bunk house. The units with separate room for kids are always HEAVYier

Its 4880 lbs and ccc is 2100. THATS A 1320 lb difference!!!!!!!

To me thats huge. And can hold 700lbs more stuff. That means less chance going over your trailer axle rating which equals bad things like blow outs...


OP watch this vid. I always had coachmens becuase of thier low slung design...

and you'll appreciate the opposing dinette and couch trust me..

288 bhs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tc8RQUk35M



http://www.coachmenrv.com/product-details.aspx?LineID=62&ModelID=292#Main

[lawrosa]

gmw photos wrote:
Mike, and as you know, 3500rpm is nothing for a small block Chev. Smart move though to "go easy" on it. Still, foot to the floor, it "could" have done the hill faster. But what's the hurry....is it a race ? Not really.

230 degrees, yes, for many years GM has decided that "running them warm" is routine. Even back in the 80's, they like to run their car engines at 210 or so in everyday use. Likely to get cleaner emissions and better economy.

Nissan on the other hand, still likes to run them below 200. My Frontier runs at 193 to 198, towing or not. (as reported by the scangage, which is always the truck )

They all work and last a long time.

The six speed GM trucks have a little bit of an advantage over the four speeds for towing.

Yup no race for me... I was a long way from home...Why beat it... I dont take it much over 3500-4000. 1st gear is low on the chevys. I was barely 1/4 throttle. I never have my foot in the floor. I just let it work.

But 1st to second is a 41% difference the 4L60 trans needs to overcome. so second is a long long long pull graduating RPM's up to 3rd.

Temps run 190f on chevys not towing... Every chevy I have had the t stats were 190f's

[gmw_photos]

Mike, and as you know, 3500rpm is nothing for a small block Chev. Smart move though to "go easy" on it. Still, foot to the floor, it "could" have done the hill faster. But what's the hurry....is it a race ? Not really.

230 degrees, yes, for many years GM has decided that "running them warm" is routine. Even back in the 80's, they like to run their car engines at 210 or so in everyday use. Likely to get cleaner emissions and better economy.

Nissan on the other hand, still likes to run them below 200. My Frontier runs at 193 to 198, towing or not. (as reported by the scangage, which is always the truck )

They all work and last a long time.

The six speed GM trucks have a little bit of an advantage over the four speeds for towing.

[lawrosa]

OH and dogging it secong gear on highway... It was either this or do a first gear like the first vid..

It is what it is..

But hey the OP may even have a 4.8 or 3:08's? Who knows right...

Just trying to educate is all...

Dogging 2nd gear. 3:42's will not rev... Maybe I need a 6 speed trans...LOLOL

[lawrosa]

gmw photos wrote:
"Let those 5.3's eat".

Typical small block GM....likes to..... actually "loves" to rev. You could run that sucker at 5K rpm for the rest of it's days and not hurt it.

Our 6.2 in the Silverado likes to rev too.

I am looking at replacing the aging Frontier this year, and high on my list is a new Titan 5.6 gas in a XD trim. I've driven one ( not towing ), and that's another engine that likes to rev. Stick your foot in it coming onto the freeway, and it'll happily rev on out to 5500. Sounds awesome. Pulls hard. What's not to love ?

WTH, I often see 3000 rpm and 28 pounds of boost with our powerstroke when I have the big horse trailer on it. Ok....again, let it rev, doesn't hurt a thing ( except fuel burn ).

LOL here is towing 5500 lbs up the NC mountains to mile high/balsam mountain campground on our way back from disney.

230f engine temps, Trans stayed cool about 170f. 1st gear 3500 rpm 30 mph...

I think i can i think i can...

1500 pulling grade..5500 lbs Oh boy!!!!

[gmw_photos]

Mike, I have sumo's under the back of the Frontier too. Those are a nice addition and work well.

Also have added a helwig anti roll bar under the back and run Bil5100 shocks. All good additions.

EDIT: my opinion is all transmission ( auto and manual ) should have the fluid ( gear oil in my Frontier ) changed relatively often also when used for towing. In other words, fluids should be changed on the severe service interval, if not more often even.

[lawrosa]

Askibum02 wrote:
I'm looking for a new travel trailer, and I don't know where to start. My budget is $20-25K, and I'm looking for a bunkhouse trailer with a bunk room, not just bunk beds. Two models that have a floor plan I like are the Forest River Wildwood X-Lite 282QBXL and the Keystone Passport 2920BH. Is there anything about either of those that I should look out for? The Wildwood is Aluminum sided and the Passport is fiberglass sided. Is there another brand that has a similar floor plan that might be better?

Keystone 625 TW so look at like 825 or more. Thats a lot of weight for the silvy IMO..

Same with wildwood. 636 tw..

Your best bet, and just my opinion and what I do/did,

Go to cat scale and get truck weighed. Front and rear axles separate. Costs about 10 bucks..

Fill tank and put all passengers in truck and any gear you may put in bed.

weigh truck

Take the axle weights on the sticker on the door and subtract from the scale weights. That will tell you exact payload left and determine what travel trailer you should be looking at..

Anything else posted here is really a guess. We dont know what you weigh, kids and wife weighs, what gear you will bring, etc etc..

We can only guesstimate from experienced 1500 silvy owners.

I can only stress to add a larger trans cooler in series with the existing cooler..







Set up myself.. went to scales to verify.

Remember 545 tw listed came out to 750 lbs tw loaded without food and clothes for 4 people.



Before sag, sumos



After sumos