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Metal Carport for Camper

Jfresh
Explorer
Explorer
Any recommendations for Carport Kits? Looking for something around 30x30 with 14' clearance. There are so many companies it is hard to find any differences. I'm located in Oregon but open to any company. Thanks.
2015 Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi 3.73 4x4 Mega Cab, TOYO MT 4080LBS, Ride Rite Air Bags, Torklift SuperHitch and Tie Downs.
2015 Lance 865
25 REPLIES 25

Owyheedog
Explorer
Explorer
Which side of Orygun are you on? I had a Versa Tube building installed last fall and have been pretty pleased with it and was impressed by the installer. They are actually in Idaho but work in Eastern Oregon too.
2001 Dodge 3500 DRW, 2010 Outfitter Apex 9.5, 99 Jeep TJ dragging behind.

Ski_Pro_3
Explorer
Explorer
I doubt the metal shed roof is going to weigh more than 2000. And jacks are rated to 2500 pounds EACH.

****EDIT****
On eBay;
Rieco-Titan Camper Jacks Electric - White - 4 Pack 56032



heavy-duty construction allows for 2500 lb. capacity per jack. Features a 36" plus lift
That would make 10,000 pounds of lift.

805gregg
Explorer
Explorer
turboo wrote:
skipro3 wrote:
I too have a tough time with the aesthetics; too TALL!! So, I was thinking...

What if you put the thing on a set of camper jacks so you could raise and lower it like the camper. Raise it so you can load/unload, then lower it once it's off your truck and lowered down to the ground. That would cut the height by 3 feet or more!


I thought of the same thing ๐Ÿ™‚
we would have to make it wind proof, with locking pins and etc
I have been looking for a set of used jacks for a while.


Camper jacks are ment to lift 2000-2500 lbs no way are they going to lift a building
2003 Dodge Quad Cab 3500 SRW LB Cummins diesel, Banks Six Gun, Banks exhaust, Mag hytec deep trans pan, and Diff cover. Buckstop bumper, Aerotanks 55gal tank, airbags, stableloads Bigwig stabilizer, 2003 Lance 1071 camper, solar and generator

turboo
Explorer
Explorer
skipro3 wrote:
I too have a tough time with the aesthetics; too TALL!! So, I was thinking...

What if you put the thing on a set of camper jacks so you could raise and lower it like the camper. Raise it so you can load/unload, then lower it once it's off your truck and lowered down to the ground. That would cut the height by 3 feet or more!


I thought of the same thing ๐Ÿ™‚
we would have to make it wind proof, with locking pins and etc
I have been looking for a set of used jacks for a while.

MN_Ben
Explorer
Explorer
Some contractors also charge machine hours. $60/hr for him and $45/hr for his bobcat.
2006 F350 Dually PSD
2008 Keystone Laredo 29RL 5th Wheel

2002 F250 7.3 PSD -SOLD
2004 Lance 1130 -SOLD
2005 Lance 981 -SOLD
2000 Lance 1010-SOLD
199? Texan 650 -SOLD
Ford FX4 Ranger -SOLD

covered_wagon
Explorer
Explorer
Skip.... You forgot the gravel, set in lifts, each lift compacted. You have set up time and go back and strip time for forms. It's a 6 inch slab so there's 50% more concrete than you calced. Not to mention rebar and labor to set that up. You also have the thickened edges if you look closely.

Plus any contractor willing to work for $20 an hour's gotta be so far out of business.... probably not licensed, bonded, insured. I would doubt his work to be worth anything too. More like at minimum 45 an hour if your lucky. I think my concrete contractor makes around 60 an hour average and I'm happy to get him. Sometimes wait up to two months for him.

Ski_Pro_3
Explorer
Explorer
Boatycall wrote:
I wasn't planning on a concrete pad. That ran me another $4k.


That's a typo right? Shouldn't that be $400, not $4000?

but seriously 24x27 pad is something like 8 yards @ 4" thick. $90 a yard is around $700. A crew of 3 men for a day at $20 per hour each; $500. Misc lumber for framing and such; $200. Total under $1,500. Given I'm off by 25%, still that is under $2K, half of your $4K.

kerry4951
Explorer
Explorer
I don't mind the height. I have a crappy neighbor nearby so I placed the carport between us and them. Now I don't have to look at him anymore. Its better than a privacy fence.
2009 Silverado 3500 dually D/A, Supersprings, Stable Loads, Bilsteins, Hellwig Sway Bar.
2010 Arctic Fox 1140 DB, 220 watts solar, custom 4 in 1 "U" shaped dinette/couch, baseboard and Cat 3 heat, 2nd dinette TV, cabover headboard storage, 67 TC mods

Ski_Pro_3
Explorer
Explorer
I too have a tough time with the aesthetics; too TALL!! So, I was thinking...

What if you put the thing on a set of camper jacks so you could raise and lower it like the camper. Raise it so you can load/unload, then lower it once it's off your truck and lowered down to the ground. That would cut the height by 3 feet or more!

covered_wagon
Explorer
Explorer
Boaty, You got off easy. I know the footings are over sized to the old code, but, That is for helping to stop uplift problems as it is the weight.

The Lateral is my concern bud. I know the two bolts at the bottom don't cut it and neither do the knee braces according to many years in the biz with engineering and design. I think it would do very well for you if you closed off at least two sides.

Jfresh
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the recommendations. I will look into the above mentioned vendors. All pics really help.
2015 Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi 3.73 4x4 Mega Cab, TOYO MT 4080LBS, Ride Rite Air Bags, Torklift SuperHitch and Tie Downs.
2015 Lance 865

Jfresh
Explorer
Explorer
Boatycall wrote:
Be sure to compare good ole' stick built. Long story short, I went with a pole-built carpot, 24x26x15 (15 high for loading/unloading inside) for $7800. The guys that built mine likely won't come to Orygun, but check around.

The price ended up going higher, but only because of county mandated changes. I wasn't planning on a concrete pad. That ran me another $4k.







I already have a 24x36 pole barn that has legally max out my counties accessory building code or I would just stick build another structure. My rational on the metal carport sitting on a gravel base is that technically its a temporary structure. I don't foresee any problems with the neighbors but I would rather take down a metal carpet than a pole building.
2015 Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi 3.73 4x4 Mega Cab, TOYO MT 4080LBS, Ride Rite Air Bags, Torklift SuperHitch and Tie Downs.
2015 Lance 865

Boatycall
Explorer
Explorer
Well, that actually was the original plan, bury the poles in concrete. But the county came back and said I had to go with an entire cubic yard 3x3x3 footing for each pole.
And I opted for a 6" pad instead of 4", plus extra rebar in the footing and steel mesh in the pad. There's so much concrete it took 2 full trucks to deliver it.

It's not goin nowhere....

To put it into perspective - those are 6x6 posts, 6x12 beams.

I put together a picture post on it as it was being built here
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covered_wagon
Explorer
Explorer
Boaty,

In Oregon they'd make you drill 24'' dia. holes 4 ft. 6 in. deep and bury those poles in concrete all the way down the four feet depth. That is for wind/ seismic lateral loading. I'm surprised actually, that they let you rely on the bracing alone which does not meet code. Poles down 4 feet is all the more necessary when sides are open without walls. I would question your permit Dept because I know for certain that your situation is not correct because the UBC applies to all building Depts in the U.S..

I think I would get some shear panels attached to your nicely built carport. As a matter of common code requirements we would need to do that here. It's a simple add on for a nicely built carport such as yours

Mike