need help with truck ratings

[bartandcathy]

I have a truck (new to me) details follow:

1984 GMC 1500
4 x 4
Diesel engine
8 foot bed
2 person cab
Vin # is 1GTEK14S3RE559687

A sticker inside the glove box has information about truck camper loading, and states the following:
Cargo weight rating 516lb/234Kg

Sticker in the door jamb states:
GVWR 6100/2767
GAWR FRT 3880/1760
GAWR RR 3750/1701

Rims 17 x 7.6 front and rear
Tires LT225/75R16C @ 50psi


If I understand this info correctly, the vehicle must weigh 5584lbs as is, and the heaviest camper I can use with this set up would be 516lb. (about 1,000lb less than the 'light' campers I have seen).


So, my questions ...

If that is so, then do I have any options to increase that weight loading?
I am thinking upgraded springs? Air bags (not sure what they are)? Alternative tires with a shallower sidewall? (for better handling)
Or should I find a good valet and get it ready to sell?

I truly appreciate in advance the efforts anyone puts into guiding me.

Kind Regards,
Bart Robinson

[bartandcathy]

Update for those interested ...
Got new tires on which are an 'E' rated 10 ply wall, and getting Bilstein shocks fitted next week.
Both of those were smart whatever I do with the truck IMO.

Had it weighed ... (full tank and both occupants)
Front axle 3351 lb
Rear axle 1950 lb

It is starting to look as though a wise man would be reconsidering a TC altogether, and I am considering whether a travel trailer may be better.

Thanks for everyones input, it is greatly appreciated.
Bart

[kohldad]

The limitation on your truck to 500 lbs. is ludicrous even for that old a truck. I have had no problems carrying a 800 lb. camper on a Toyota mini truck all over California

Not when you consider he has a 1/2 ton diesel (6.2). Though the diesel is pretty much a beefed up gasser, it still added a good bit of weight to the truck.

I've driven some of those vehicles and they are pretty good for grocery getters with GREAT fuel mileage of the time, but not great when loaded down. They were prone to problems but mainly from folks who didn't know a thing about diesels.


Back on the OP question - the empty weight figure seems about light but you would need to put it on a scale to be sure. Even then you will be limited to a very bare bones truck camper. And if you plan on towing something behind it also, you will need to subtract the tongue weight.

IMO and given the old truck is more capable than most folks think, I wouldn't try to haul a TC with it. Even if you spent the money on upgrades, the engine will also be under powered for moving a TC that weighs over 2,000#.

My suggestion would be to upgrade to a 1-ton.

[bens170]

bartandcathy,
It depends on what you want for Truck Camper, hard/soft side, pop up, dry/wet bath. Definitely change out the tires to E rated or better. You will need tie-downs, a rubber mat in the pickup bed. Mat between bed of the truck and the camper. Check out Truck Camper Magazine for information.
Ben

[Glacier_D]

Yes, you can do a metric-butt-ton ($$$$$) of upgrades to your truck, but it will still be a 1500 with weaker brakes and frame. Do yourself a favor and buy a 1 ton SRW, your options for campers will be much improved.

[OH48Lt]

Double post

[OH48Lt]

You can modify the truck all you want, put all the $$$ in it you want, and when you're done, you still have a 30 year old 1/2 ton that is overloaded. There are a lot of nice used pickups out there that have the capability to safely haul around a truck camper. Sorry to be so blunt, but that's the reality of the situation.

[nipster]

A half ton truck is a very poor platform for a TC. A 30 year old half ton truck is an even worse platform for a TC

[burningman]

I've done all that stuff, it can be done, sure. I even swapped a 3/4 ton chassis under an F100 once.
It's NOT worth doing. Granted, it's a little easier on a Chevy than an old Ford, but by the time you have it together, you've spent more than it's worth and/or done a ton of work. And I can already tell you, if the fella came here asking the questions he did, that kind of work is definitely not something he's gonna do.
Having been there several times, I have to advise selling that truck and buying a 3/4 or 1-ton.
Axles, wheels, tires, and inevitable miscellaneous parts, plus labor because I don't think this is the kind of work he does, adds up to way more than a decent '80s model Chevy can be had for.

Adding trusses to the rear axle isn't worth doing. The housing isn't the issue, it's the non-floating axle shafts inside that have to take all the weight. I have broken them hauling a heavy camper with a half-ton with helper springs.

I'm so do-it-yourself I'm gluing and soldering a new Hall Effect sensor into the failed crank sensor in a car of mine instead of buying a new one for $300. I did my own trailer tongue stretch instead of using a hitch extension. I even converted a 25-foot fiberglass cabin cruiser into a land vehicle. And I have turned 1/2 ton 4x4s into 3/4 tons. I'm here to tell ya, don't do it!

[twodownzero]

You might consider replacing both axles with 3/4 ton units which you can get from a junkyard. When you're at it, replace all four springs. The factory 3 leaf front springs are what would have come in a heavier-duty truck. The rears you will want to upgrade to 56" long springs if they aren't already and you can get springs that will support whatever weight camper you want to use. The holes to move your spring hangers are already in your frame and you'd just have to knock the rivets out and move the hanger back a few inches. Most 1/2 tons have 52" long springs but some already have 3/4 ton springs. The hangers, spring spacing, and shackles are the same, so all you would need are the leaf springs themselves and new u bolts and spring plates. You can get the spring plates with your axles at the junkyard, but I would highly recommend new leaf springs.

A 14 bolt full floating rear axle from a 3/4 ton truck will bolt right into your truck (full floaters came in pre-1982 C and K 20s and C20s of all years with 454s). It will have huge drum brakes that are 2.5" wide.

When you are done, you will need to buy heavy duty 8 lug wheels and install E rated tires. There are a number of sizes that may work; common sizes include 235/85R16 and 245/75R16. There may be some larger sizes that will come in E rated for 16s as well (maybe something like a 285/75R16 or so).

Although it won't change the sticker on the door, it will give you a rear axle that will support MUCH more weight and a braking and suspension system that will be identical to a 3/4 ton truck.

A set of 1 ton axles will give you an even heavier-duty front axle with even bigger front brakes, but the front axle alone will cost you $1000-1500.

A pair of 3/4 ton axles can be had in serviceable condition from the junkyard for ~$600 or so. You can change the brakes, repack the bearings, replace ball joints and steering, etc. while you're at it. The front driveshaft will hook right up. In the rear, you will either need a conversion u joint ($40) or to modify the driveshaft from the bigger truck.

If you don't know what I'm talking about, you won't be able to do it.

If you do, you can probably do all of this in 2-3 weekends and you'll have a truck that has the effective equivalent of double the current GVWR.

If you have a good running and rust free 1984 Chevrolet K10, converting it into a K20 plus a few extra leaves in the back and good, new, heavy duty tires will probably support any camper that could go on a brand new SRW truck.

[bartandcathy]

A lot of great info there folks, thank you very much!

[Redsky]

The limitation on your truck to 500 lbs. is ludicrous even for that old a truck. I have had no problems carrying a 800 lb. camper on a Toyota mini truck all over California.

The weakest points on the truck will be the axle and the tires. Weigh the truck at a CAT scale for $10 and then you will know exactly what the weight is at the drive wheels. If it is 2,000 lbs. and you want to carry a 1500 lb. load (camper and gear) then your truck's tires need to support 1750 lbs. at the rated PSI. If they do not then new tires are in order.

If with the camper in the bed there is visible sagging at the rear then go to a spring shop and have them add a leaf to the leaf pack or get helper springs like the ones from SuperSprings. Research your truck and if axles were a problem you can add a truss.

Your truck at GAWR RR of 3750 lbs. less the weight of the truck at the rear wheels with the bed empty is your legal maximum load. So you need to go to a public scale and get it weighed. The sticker in the glove box is irrelevant for your purposes as it is based on the weakest link as the truck left the factory.

Leave room in your budget for new shocks to help with the fully laden camper.

Or you could follow the herd and get a 1-ton DRW truck and a giant camper assuming as the posters do that you have unlimited funds to toss at the project.

[mayo30]

I have a friend that is a traffic officer in British Columbia and they will pretty much stop any truck camper set up that is a 1500,F150 for weight checks.The incident of accidents for truck over loading is very high and they are very serious about it.You will not drive away only with a ticket but pay to have it hauled.So don't go out that way unless you are within your trucks stickers.

[mkirsch]

Staying within the GVWR limits is a common issue for truck camper owners, especially when it comes to 1/2 ton trucks. On 1/2 tons it's impossible to put a camper on the truck without exceeding the GVWR for all intents and purposes.

If you are bound and determined to put a camper on the truck, you have to resign yourself to the fact that you will be over GVWR.

When you weigh the truck, also get individual axle weights. If you are at a feed mill or dump or gravel pit, simply park the truck with one axle on the scales, get a reading, then move it so the other axle is on the scales and get another reading.

Your combined axle ratings are 7630lbs, which is 1500lbs higher than your GVWR. It is a common practice among TCers to load to the axle ratings, rather than the GVWR.

Depending on your REAL weights, you may have over 2000lbs of payload capacity on that truck, going by axle ratings.

That said, you need to check the weight ratings on your tires, and ensure that they add up to AT LEAST the axle ratings of the truck. LT load range C tires should easily provide 3880lbs of capacity per pair.

[bighatnohorse]

Sadly, 1/2-ton pickups are a very poor choice for hauling a truck camper.
The 1/2-ton is fairly capable at towing a small trailer though.
So, happily, you can go RV camping with all the amenities that you see in truck campers, albeit in a travel trailer.

GVWR 6100/2767 - Your truck should never weigh more than 6100 pounds.
Take the truck down the scales (public dumps usually have them and ask to weigh the truck) and see what the truck weighs with you, your significant other and pets in it.
Write down that weight number.

Example: the trucks weighs in at 5000 pounds.
Subtract 5000 from 6100 and you will have a surplus carry capacity of 1100 pounds.

Do that first and you will have real world information.
Its simplified, yes.
But you will have hard numbers to work with.

And remember, you have to be able to stop that heavy truck with standard brakes.
Bigger springs don't help.