New Brakes Requires
Our 12 yr old KZ Spree has never had new brakes, when we bought used 2 yrs ago, it still had the original tires as it had very rarely been towed anywhere! We have since towed it well over 20,000 km m...
Forum Discussion
MFL wrote:
I agree with Gdetrailer's post. Another thing you mentioned is 10" brakes, and about 1K tongue wt. This indicated a fairly heavy trailer, that 10" brakes are not going to be great stoppers compared to 12" drums with bigger shoes, that likely would slide the tires.
Jerry
Acid test, with FULLY CHARGED BATTERY ON THE TRAILER, pull break away pin, then pull forward.
Brakes SHOULD LOCK UP AND SLIDE THE TIRES FOR ANY TRAILER NO MATTER THE SIZE OF BRAKES (IE 9", 10", 12" and disc), PERIOD.
If only slight braking resistance is felt and tires still roll = WIRING PROBLEM.
Break away system is designed to put FULL 12V battery voltage to the magnets which should result in absolute maximum braking capacity.
MOST IBC brake controllers now days WILL NOT ALLOW YOU TO "LOCK UP" the trailer brakes at LOW SPEED. IBCs intentionally reduce the output based on speed, so the slower you are the less they will apply.
This essentially requires you to "throw away" the old habit of checking how good your brakes are working or setting the brake controller by locking up the brakes then backing off IF you have a IBC.
With IBC you kind of have to learn a new method, basically what you are going for initial setting is to feel a heavy tug of the trailer when braking (IE HEAVY trailer brakes leading the TV brakes), then back off slightly. You basically are going for a neutral (can't tell any difference) to SLIGHTLY feel a LIGHT tug (IE the trailer brakes will "lead" the TV brakes slightly).
I like to set my IBC so if I manually apply the trailer brakes ONLY while rolling at slow speed (IE 1-2 MPH)on level ground (NO THROTTLE at idle) so the trailer brakes will slow BOTH the TV and the trailer to a stop (not jerk or lock up the trailer brakes).
