Just to be clear, stretching the trailer tongue is custom work, but really it’s easy.
Any approximately 3/8” thick rubber mat should be fine.
Every camper has its little quirks... on the 10-2, the set screws that hold the extra step just below the rear door really gouge into the aluminum step. If you epoxy-glue a coupe dimes on for the set screws to grind into, it helps with that.
I also stuck little clear rubber adhesive bumpers under my extra step so it doesn’t scratch up my back bumper where it sits on it.
Also, the big slide out tray in the rear “basement” storage compartment will bend and chew up the flange around the compartment hatch. The quick easy fix is to lay a strip of wood inside the rear storage compartment hatch for the tray to slide over as you pull it out. Make it just thick enough so the tray clears the lip on the access door frame.
It seems to pull in and out just fine when the tray is empty but once you load it up, you’ll see what I mean.
Oh!! Another truck-prep thing I think everyone should do is cut a pressure treated 2x10 or 2x12 to fit sideways across the front of your truck box. The front bed wall is actually pretty flimsy and I’ve bent several of them during unplanned hard braking with a camper on.
A nice big 2x12 across the front helps a lot to keep it from getting bent out of shape by the camper shoving against it.
You may find the black rubber bumpers on the front of your 10-2 make it sit too far back. I removed mine. It still has white plastic front bumpers (that the black rubber ones were screwed into) and it sits just right.
Your truck may be a little different (mine is a Dodge) but check that.
