Hello All,Just got back from trip with new 2021 A/F 1150 19 DAYS. Temps were 27 degrees to over 100 out side.Fridge was leveled. ON 110v pugged in worked correct. On propane fridge was 50-60 degrees freezer was 0-10 On generator all night and day Fridge 35-55 freezer 0-10 Put fan in fridge no difference.No matter what outside temp was on propane fridge ran hot.Any help please?

Andy, go to ARPRV.com and purchase and install the #4 kit with dual fans and you fridge will run perfectly. My fridge in my AF 990 did exactly the same and after the install I run my fridge on setting 6 and the beer is cold and ice cream hard.

Works on AC but not on propane AO airflow/draft is sufficient for removal of heatAC Element and Propane transfer roughly the same heat energy to boil the ammonia coolant into a vaporSO Dirty Burner assemblyOR LP System Pressure is Low (S/B 11"WC --0.4psi. IF low the flame temp will be low and heat generated will not boil the ammonia in sufficient volume to absorb heat from food compartment)**10"WC is 0.36 psi....can not visually tell difference between 11"WC and 10"WC. Need a manometer to measure system pressure...with at least 50% of appliances in service

Old-Biscuit wrote:Works on AC but not on propane AO airflow/draft is sufficient for removal of heatAC Element and Propane transfer roughly the same heat energy to boil the ammonia coolant into a vaporSO Dirty Burner assemblyOR LP System Pressure is Low (S/B 11"WC --0.4psi. IF low the flame temp will be low and heat generated will not boil the ammonia in sufficient volume to absorb heat from food compartment)**10"WC is 0.36 psi....can not visually tell difference between 11"WC and 10"WC. Need a manometer to measure system pressure...with at least 50% of appliances in serviceHard to believe that the burner is dirty already, but a good thing to check.If he is traveling, unit is on propane. Side venting refrigerator when traveling are terribly inefficient. ARPRV fixed my inefficient fridge.

Old-Biscuit wrote:Works on AC but not on propane AO airflow/draft is sufficient for removal of heatAC Element and Propane transfer roughly the same heat energy to boil the ammonia coolant into a vaporSO Dirty Burner assemblyOR LP System Pressure is Low (S/B 11"WC --0.4psi. IF low the flame temp will be low and heat generated will not boil the ammonia in sufficient volume to absorb heat from food compartment)**10"WC is 0.36 psi....can not visually tell difference between 11"WC and 10"WC. Need a manometer to measure system pressure...with at least 50% of appliances in service+1Had pretty much the same experience with our 1150 one time. Worked on AC, Fridge warm on propane. Looked at the burner and you could see it was noticeably smaller then normal. Was going to take it apart to clean the next day but it was working. Looked at the flame and it was burning brightly

All was clean. Brand new unit. geo boy, will look into this, thanksI was pluged in with in 1 hour went from 58 deg on max 5 to 29 deg on #5 moved it to 3 stayed at 34-38 deg????

Nor Cold 2 way?? | Good Sam Community

riah
Explorer
Oct 21, 2021
Yes, but I was asking if it might resolve a temp issue for a 3 way fridge as well!:)

Thanks again for the info that was provided!

Life is good! Life is too short to waste fretting!

I learn so much from the forum!!!

Thanks again!

ticki2 wrote:
If folks read the title it a 2 way frig , no 12v option .
ticki2
Explorer
Oct 21, 2021
If folks read the title it a 2 way frig , no 12v option .
riah
Explorer
Oct 21, 2021
Well I guess saying illegal was a bit exaggerated.. but it is prohibited when at gas stations, in tunnels, and such scenarios - plus, it’s just crazy for us to use it as we already paid for other options (dcdc charger and solar chargers) … hence now we only travel with it on propane as a last resort - and as little as possible… primarily because of the safety factor of driving around on the roadways with an open flame burning propane which will cost us twice to burn/waste additional money when we have to buy a new propane canister or have it refilled.

So I apologize for mis-speaking as to it being illegal, but it’s definitely less safe to do in various scenarios. ;)

Geo*Boy wrote:
riah wrote:
We ended up swapping back and forth during the summer from 12v to propane to keep the food cold and as importantly, to save on the use of propane a bit.

(Plus propane has increased substantially here in the northeast so definitely want to use the 12v from the dc dc charger and solar as much as we can! Also, we don’t like running on propane as it’s not safe, legal or recommended.:h

Reality Check wrote:
mbloof wrote:
For me personally, I'll 'precool' the fridge by having the camper plugged into shore power and using the AC option 1-2 days before leaving on a trip.

Then I'll transfer precooled items from my house fridge/freezer to the campers fridge/freezer. I'll usually SHUT OFF the campers fridge/freezer before pulling out of my driveway.

While I live in Oregon and travel mostly in Oregon/Washington and the temperatures generally don't get higher than the 90's, I've found that the campers fridge/freezer will keep my items just fine (no matter what time of the year it is) during the 1-4 hours it takes to reach where I'm going.

When I reach my destination and start setting up, the campers fridge/freezer will get turned back on set to AC (if available) and propane if AC is not available. I see/find no need for the 'DC' mode/setting at all.

Obviously YMMV,

- Mark0.

Why do you turn it off when traveling?
mbloof
Explorer
Oct 21, 2021
Reality Check wrote:
mbloof wrote:
For me personally, I'll 'precool' the fridge by having the camper plugged into shore power and using the AC option 1-2 days before leaving on a trip.

Then I'll transfer precooled items from my house fridge/freezer to the campers fridge/freezer. I'll usually SHUT OFF the campers fridge/freezer before pulling out of my driveway.

While I live in Oregon and travel mostly in Oregon/Washington and the temperatures generally don't get higher than the 90's, I've found that the campers fridge/freezer will keep my items just fine (no matter what time of the year it is) during the 1-4 hours it takes to reach where I'm going.

When I reach my destination and start setting up, the campers fridge/freezer will get turned back on set to AC (if available) and propane if AC is not available. I see/find no need for the 'DC' mode/setting at all.

Obviously YMMV,

- Mark0.

Why do you turn it off when traveling?

Generally my first stop is a station for fuel. Back in the days when I had a gas powered truck I might make multiple fuel stops along the way.

While IDK about the laws where you live/travel around here its illegal to have a open flame while fueling. Besides, the stupid automatic 3-way fridges can often switch to DC and unless you have cut or otherwise disabled that element you might arrive with a drained or dead battery (it has happened to me before).

A better question might be: why do you leave yours on?

- Mark0.
Geo_Boy
Explorer II
Oct 21, 2021
riah wrote:
We ended up swapping back and forth during the summer from 12v to propane to keep the food cold and as importantly, to save on the use of propane a bit.

(Plus propane has increased substantially here in the northeast so definitely want to use the 12v from the dc dc charger and solar as much as we can! Also, we don’t like running on propane as it’s not safe, legal or recommended.:h

Reality Check wrote:
mbloof wrote:
For me personally, I'll 'precool' the fridge by having the camper plugged into shore power and using the AC option 1-2 days before leaving on a trip.

Then I'll transfer precooled items from my house fridge/freezer to the campers fridge/freezer. I'll usually SHUT OFF the campers fridge/freezer before pulling out of my driveway.

While I live in Oregon and travel mostly in Oregon/Washington and the temperatures generally don't get higher than the 90's, I've found that the campers fridge/freezer will keep my items just fine (no matter what time of the year it is) during the 1-4 hours it takes to reach where I'm going.

When I reach my destination and start setting up, the campers fridge/freezer will get turned back on set to AC (if available) and propane if AC is not available. I see/find no need for the 'DC' mode/setting at all.

Obviously YMMV,

- Mark0.

Why do you turn it off when traveling?
Reality_Check
Nomad II
Oct 21, 2021
riah wrote:
We ended up swapping back and forth during the summer from 12v to propane to keep the food cold and as importantly, to save on the use of propane a bit.

(Plus propane has increased substantially here in the northeast so definitely want to use the 12v from the dc dc charger and solar as much as we can! Also, we don’t like running on propane as it’s not safe, legal or recommended.

Reality Check wrote:

Why do you turn it off when traveling?

Our fridge and hot water tank are never turned off (fridge on AC at the house). Goes months on a bottle, so never really thought about the price.

I've installed a couple of them, and can't find anything in the instructions that suggest not traveling with them functioning, which is why I asked. The legal part; each state is different I guess. Interesting.
riah
Explorer
Oct 21, 2021
Thanks for you response! I guess we may need to buy/use an inverter as well by the sound of it iat least during the summertime weather! Ps-your trial setup sounds very interesting!

MT BOB wrote:
As NRALIFR has said.
The 12v in 3-ways was designed to be used only when driving, and to "maintain" temps. And, over the years, many were poorly installed, and killed many batteries.They should be hooked up so the element only works when the vehicle is running, and now, they use modules that shut it off if voltage gets too low, usually about 13 volts. I added 12v to mine, RM2501, because I like to experiment,and I used one of the relay modules that they use in the UK and Australia, set the voltage to turn off the element at 12v. It can keep the fridge at 35f, but I have only used it 2 times, I expect it will not when it is 90-100f out. I have a small inverter, in case I have to take a long driving trip,and will use it on 120, especially in hotter weather,while driving.
riah
Explorer
Oct 21, 2021
We ended up swapping back and forth during the summer from 12v to propane to keep the food cold and as importantly, to save on the use of propane a bit.

(Plus propane has increased substantially here in the northeast so definitely want to use the 12v from the dc dc charger and solar as much as we can! Also, we don’t like running on propane as it’s not safe, legal or recommended.

Reality Check wrote:
mbloof wrote:
For me personally, I'll 'precool' the fridge by having the camper plugged into shore power and using the AC option 1-2 days before leaving on a trip.

Then I'll transfer precooled items from my house fridge/freezer to the campers fridge/freezer. I'll usually SHUT OFF the campers fridge/freezer before pulling out of my driveway.

While I live in Oregon and travel mostly in Oregon/Washington and the temperatures generally don't get higher than the 90's, I've found that the campers fridge/freezer will keep my items just fine (no matter what time of the year it is) during the 1-4 hours it takes to reach where I'm going.

When I reach my destination and start setting up, the campers fridge/freezer will get turned back on set to AC (if available) and propane if AC is not available. I see/find no need for the 'DC' mode/setting at all.

Obviously YMMV,

- Mark0.

Why do you turn it off when traveling?
Reality_Check
Nomad II
Oct 21, 2021
mbloof wrote:
For me personally, I'll 'precool' the fridge by having the camper plugged into shore power and using the AC option 1-2 days before leaving on a trip.

Then I'll transfer precooled items from my house fridge/freezer to the campers fridge/freezer. I'll usually SHUT OFF the campers fridge/freezer before pulling out of my driveway.

While I live in Oregon and travel mostly in Oregon/Washington and the temperatures generally don't get higher than the 90's, I've found that the campers fridge/freezer will keep my items just fine (no matter what time of the year it is) during the 1-4 hours it takes to reach where I'm going.

When I reach my destination and start setting up, the campers fridge/freezer will get turned back on set to AC (if available) and propane if AC is not available. I see/find no need for the 'DC' mode/setting at all.

Obviously YMMV,

- Mark0.

Why do you turn it off when traveling?
riah
Explorer
Oct 21, 2021
Thank you! Good to know that we can most likely use a lower level and lower wattage inverter as well!

NRALIFR wrote:
If all the inverter is going to power is the fridge in AC mode, then yes, a 3000 watt pure sine inverter is overkill.

You need to check your specific model fridge, but the AC heat element in mine is less than 350 watts. You don’t even need a pure sine inverter for it either. I ran mine for several years using a 500 watt modified sine inverter and it worked just fine. What I didn’t like about that inverter though was the cooling fan on it was a screamer. It didn’t matter that much though since it was only on when we weren’t in the camper to hear it. Once I had other uses for an inverter though, I bought a better, quieter, PSW model.

:):)

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