Our Solar/Inverter system install

I used screws to hold the Z brackets to the roof and had no issues mounting them, everything is secure. The Dicor was just used to seal the brackets to the roof. If you're concerned with screwing mounting brackets to your roof have a look at the flexible panels. I wouldn't rely on any adhesive to secure solid panels to your roof but it would be fine for the flexible panels.

Did you use any screws when mounting your solar panels to the roof? I have a Rockwood and the roof is also a laminated construction. I have been hesitant to mount panels to my roof due to not having any real wood to lag into. It looks like you only used Dicor for attachment, is that correct? I am concerned that only using adhesives could cause the rubber roof to separate form the roofing material. Your thoughts please.

This thread show many pics with good detailed info regarding solar panels. Wiring/connectors etc .
There might be a little something that could be of use .

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23419900.cfm

mikakuja wrote:
So, please tell me why 10guage to the power dist center is insufficient for 200w which is a max of 11A.

You're fine, and the wiring will support what you want and more.

The primary concern with wiring is safe capacity, and you're covered. When panels were expensive, people tried to squeeze every little bit out of them, so there was concern for wiring losses, and there were all these recommendations to keep voltage drop below some very small percentage. Nowadays, adding more panels (if you have room) is more economic than rewiring. If a couple percent loss really matters, just add another panel and you'll be much better off.

You may also be told that there's too much voltage drop to charge the batteries properly. Remote battery voltage sensing makes that a complete non-issue, but even without it, it's very, very minor. Voltage drop is greatest during bulk charging, but when the system is doing that, it's already providing all the power it can to the battery. When the battery gets close to full (absorption voltage), both the current and voltage drop start going down. By the time the battery gets very close to full, the current is minimal, so too the voltage drop, so it really doesn't make a significant difference. Overall, the difference may cause your battery to take a few minutes more to get to full charge. Mice nuts.

Remote temperature sensing of the battery is much more important to getting a full charge and keeping your battery happy. The voltage difference with temperature is much greater than the voltage difference due to wiring with any safe wire gauge.

So, please tell me why 10guage to the power dist center is insufficient for 200w which is a max of 11A.

The wiring as now will not support the present solar wattage , why an additional 200 watts .

Still waiting on delivery of the second 200w panel!!! Looking forward to getting it mounted on the trailer...

My apologies to anyone who tried to view the slideshow, it seems to be hit or miss with Photobucket if it will play. It seems that more often than not it is painfully slow loading or freezes altogether.
I will take some time this evening and delete the slideshow and link the rest of the pics.

Mike

Looks nice. Sounds like it will be even nicer once you get your second panel installed. I think you'll be quite pleased with the results when it comes to keeping your camping trips virtually effortless when it comes to your battery system.

Looks great! Love the MC4 connectors and direct down to the controller.

The system seems to perform great on cloudy days as well, just don't have numbers to post at the moment... We haven't actually had the trailer out camping yet, just testing in in the driveway... The extra 200w panel should really help things out on less than perfect days...
Our previous trailer had 260 watts and we were quite happy with that, so 400w should do the trick...