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Christl's avatar
Christl
Explorer
Sep 23, 2013

Palomino Bronco Roof Dip Edge

HI Folks: Can anyone tell me how the bottom aluminum drip edge on a Palomino Bronco roof is attached. There is no sign of screws on the outside surface.
Is there screws hidden under the rubber gasket that go up into the edge of the wafer board plywood strip backing?

The bottom aluminum drip edge at the one corner has started to separate from the roof. No water damage has happened as I caught it in time. I suspect it happened as a result of not lowering both corners together (racking) while lowering it onto its storage blocks and/or making the 4 latches to tight that hold the roof down in the closed position. It is where I have temporarily covered it up with tuck tape in the picture while deciding how to repair properly. Any ideas would be very helpful including sealants to use. I have purchased a tube of Geocel ProFlexRV flexible sealant and a spray can of White Knight All Season Rubberized Premium Roof Repair. Hoping to make these repairs before storage for winter. cheers christl
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  • TraciK's avatar
    TraciK
    Explorer
    Sep 24, 2013
    Our front is also leaking. And the wood underneath is rotten. The right side is also dented. We only paid $2100, so if we can get it rigged up to use for a year or two I'm good with that.
  • johnhealey1776's avatar
    johnhealey1776
    Explorer
    Sep 24, 2013
    It was a while ago, all my old photos are on a iphone somewhere... i just took a piece of rigid aluminum, bent it 90 degrees (the front was somewhat harder as it came in at an angle ) around that corner and bolted it into the front and side where there was good wood. I used eternabond tape to waterproof it underneath too. If i recall correctly, I actually sistered the rotten wood with a good piece of 3/4 Pressure treated decking to get good enough wood to bolt through. Those tops are junk, and so hard to repair! Good luck! Also, there was some sort of adhesive between the osb and the drip edge. I remember using a small wire wheel on my drill to remove it.
  • Christl's avatar
    Christl
    Explorer
    Sep 24, 2013
    pbrooks101 wrote:
    Yes, there are abou 8-10 three inch screws under the rubber molding that go up into the OSB. The construction method is horrible on this build. I have my son's torn apart now on one side and it is completely rotten and sagging. The rubber molding pops out of its channel so you can access the screws. My intention is to rebuild the side and re-attach the molding and also place an aluminum "L" channel on the inside to cover any exposed wood.

    Thanks to both of you for replying! Did either of you notice if there was any adhesive caulking used between the aluminum drip edge and the outside aluminum sheeting over the OSB in addition to the screws from the bottom to fasten this drip edge to the roof? So far I have only been able to confirmed caulking sealant was used along the top leading edge of the aluminum drip edge and up against the white dimpled aluminum sheeting to stop any water getting behind the drip edge. I intend to try and glue the OSB back together where the screws were broke out sideways out of the OSB if possible. When I reattach the drip edge I could use some adhesive caulking in addition to the screws to help hold it in place if you thought this was advisable?
  • Christl's avatar
    Christl
    Explorer
    Sep 24, 2013
    johnhealey1776 wrote:
    Yes, screws go vertical up above the rubber. If that edge is separating, you might be in for more than you are bargaining for. When i rebuilt mine, the wood in the front was rotten,and i replaced it but there was not much solid left up there so Instead of going nuts on it I eternabond taped the hell out of it and made aluminum brackets to gusset the corner together that i bolted through. Seemed to have worked well! Make sure you get all the screws out, that track bends easily.

    Thanks for the caution on the bending of the drip track. I am hoping I do not have to remove the whole length of drip edge to repair it as it is still securely fastened for much of its length.
    Could you provide a picture of the aluminum brackets that you installed to gusset the corner together. I am not pleased with the plastic right angle brackets used on the corners. There are no fasteners going through the plastic corner brackets into the drip edges to hold them together and give it strength at the corners. I was planning to put aluminum pop rivets through the plastic corner brackets and into the aluminum drip edge to achieve this (what is your thoughts).
  • pbrooks101's avatar
    pbrooks101
    Explorer
    Sep 23, 2013
    Yes, there are abou 8-10 three inch screws under the rubber molding that go up into the OSB. The construction method is horrible on this build. I have my son's torn apart now on one side and it is completely rotten and sagging. The rubber molding pops out of its channel so you can access the screws. My intention is to rebuild the side and re-attach the molding and also place an aluminum "L" channel on the inside to cover any exposed wood.
  • johnhealey1776's avatar
    johnhealey1776
    Explorer
    Sep 23, 2013
    Yes, screws go vertical up above the rubber. If that edge is separating, you might be in for more than you are bargaining for. When i rebuilt mine, the wood in the front was rotten,and i replaced it but there was not much solid left up there so Instead of going nuts on it I eternabond taped the hell out of it and made aluminum brackets to gusset the corner together that i bolted through. Seemed to have worked well! Make sure you get all the screws out, that track bends easily.

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