22. Under the bed is the pass thru cargo area, accessed by cargo doors on either outside walls of the trailer. Also under the bed is the water heater. It is enclosed, taking about 1/6th of the space under the bed.
We decided we wanted more storage space that was accessible from Inside. So I built two walls, adjoining one of the hot water heater walls. This gave us access to about 1/4th of the cargo pass space from inside, but still left substantial space in the pass thru.
I then cut a hole on the existing inside wall for a door.
We then made a door from scratch, using luan paneling, other wood and the same decorative molding that was used on the shelf above the fridge.
Photo of the door-
It is a large storage space. 20" deep, 20" tall and 48" wide.
In this next photo, the wall seen on the left is where the compartment butts up against one of the already existing water heater walls.
This is a view of the outside of one of the storage walls, looking from inside the pass thru cargo area.
23. We put down some carpet in the remaining cargo pass thru space.
We have our leveling blocks, tire chocks, tools, air compressor, back up battery charger, folding chairs, fresh water hose, filter, pressure regulator, electrical adapters, and misc. other items in here. We are still not using even half the available space.
24. Going back inside. We have a cutting board that covers one side of the double sinks when needed, and a container that fits in the other side of the sink. These are both easily removed when both sides of the sink are needed.
However, the container mostly stays in place. Being as we have been boondocking quite a bit, many times water that is used stays in the container and is then put into the black tank, or tossed outside.
We have 49 gallons fresh water, 33 gallons gray and 33 gallons black. Between showers and kitchen the gray would fill up much faster than the black, so we try and even that out a bit.
25. While talking about tanks. We plan on using the trailer year round, and we wanted to use ALL of the trailer features. So, we knew we had some work to do regarding below freezing temps.
First up was unbolting a couple of the fresh water tank support brackets, and then enough of the coraplast underbelly to get to the fresh water tank.
The white thing in the photo is the 49 gallon fresh water tank. It was a PITA to get to.
After taking this pic I installed a Facon 7 1/4"x25" Water Holding Tank Heater Pad right onto the tank.
It was a bit of an irritating job reaching up in there and I completely forgot to take any photo's once it was installed.
It has a Built in thermostat, set to turn itself on at 45ยฐF( + - 5 degrees) and turn itself off at 68ยฐF( + - 5 degrees).
After installing it we spray foamed all the joints where the coraplast meets the frame and re-attached the coraplast and then the 2 fresh tank support brackets that I had removed. Then did a bit more spray foam to seal up the underbelly.
All back together and I hope to never have to replace that heating pad.
๐We've already spent quite a bit of time in temps well below freezing and the tank heater has done its' job well. Coldest we've been in has been 22*.
We rarely expect to be in temps much colder than that. Although we have had a few days, where we live, when the temps got down to 10-15 degrees. I expect this will do the job down to those temps.
26. In addition to the tank heater, we had to do some other work on the plumbing to prevent freezing in the colder temps.
We used some Facon RV Camper Elbow Heater Pads.
3x13 on the black tank drain-
3x13 on the gray tank drain-
I wrapped a 3x8 heater pad around both low point drain pipes, along with insulation over the heater pad-
I also wrapped the fresh tank drain with a 3x8 heater pad and then covered it with insulation. This may have been unnecessary since the tank already has the heating pad, but since the drain sticks out in the open, below the belly, better safe than sorry.
The last place I ran a 3x8 heater pad was around some pipe in the pass thru cargo area. This was probably unnecessary, since the cargo area does have quite a bit of warmth in it from the inside of the trailer. But again, better safe than sorry.
27. I ran all the wires, inside a corrugated wire loom, up to near the batteries.
I installed a waterproof 15 amp toggle switch onto the battery frame. I put a fuse between the heaters and the switch, and then wired the switch into the batteries.
For extra protection of the switch, I encased the entire bottom of it in Liquid Electrical Tape.
I also have an extra one of these switches in with my tools, should this one fail while on the road. Also, have extra elbow heater pads in with the tools should one fail while on the road. I do Not have an extra tank heater pad.
I do need to always remember to toggle the switch on when it is going to be cold. Even though the tank heater has a thermostat and could remain powered at all times, the elbow heaters are not thermostatically controlled.
I am thinking about putting an independent thermostat between the switch and the fuses. That way I will not need to remember to toggle the switch when we get close to freezing temps.
That's all for now, will post more when I have more time.
Kevin & Mary
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