Prepping Truck in Advance: Suggestions?

I have a 2014 RAM 3500 DRW Laramie.

You will not need 19.5" wheels and tires. Nice, but no.

I have Torklift StableLoads, Torklift Tiedowns, Torklift SuperHitch and Truss Extension.

I also have a Dualliner installed.

No sway bar added but do have a Hellwig in the shop if needed.

I have run 75 mph and it drives like a Cadillac! :)

I carry a Lance 1050S no problem.

Rubber Bed Mat / horse stall mat.

Start with TorkLift stableloads.

Okay - great! So it looks like I'll be getting some Stableloads then, I have a bed mat already. Very good to hear I've got minimal adjustments to get road worthy.

Any other reflections or comments are welcome.

We're playing the waiting game also. Our truck is a 16' F350 CC Dually.
I'll be installing Hellwig Ft & R Sway Bars, Hellwig Air Bags and
Bilstein 5100 Shocks. Whether I need all this IDK, but I do know
these products and I have a new Truck and I want to play with it.

For the Camper I'm using the
Happijac Tie Down system for the Front
and Torklift Tie Downs on the Rear along with Fastguns

I wouldn't do anything but get a model specific bed fit mat. You will obviously need to secure the camper to the truck so Torklift tiedowns and Fast Guns. I don't think I would get Stableloads or any suspension modifications until after I drove it.
Looking at the AF spec...about 3500# dry. Add 1,000# you're likely still good.
There's an aspect of the StableLoads I'm not sure about...the concentrated weight in one surface area of the leaf springs.

I have a 2015 version of that truck.

I would recommend rubber bed mat,I have DeeZee purchased on Amazon.
Torklift frame mounts to hold truck onto camper. I have the steel ones.
Torklift Fast guns, this is the clamp between the frame mounts and the camper body.

According to Truck Camper Magazine, your new camper will weigh 5,236 pounds wet. my 990 weights 500 lbs less wet, but I have 400 or so pounds of tong load on my truck hitch (amplified through a 34" hitch extension)

see these trucks sit high in the back, and as you add weight the rear suspension drops. when loaded, I run level with no suspension enhancements.

I have added a bigwig sway bar to truck, this helps with lean going around corners and maybe some sway in crosswinds.

If I add anything, It might be blocks to lower my upper helper spring pads that are mounted to the frame by 2". but I really think I will just leave it the way it was.

Also Torklift makes these upper stable loads that replace the factory helper spring blocks, they are much taller. As your truck rear end drops with weight the helper springs will kick in sooner, stopping some of the drop. I ran a different brand on my 2006 3500 SRW: towing my 5th wheel it raised the rear suspension around 2-3", but when empty the stock truck springs raise the rear of truck and the blocks no longer hit the helper springs, thus not affecting your empty ride.

I would pick up camper with stock truck and see. Does your new truck have the Air level suspension out back? See your new camper can hold over 400 lbs of water alone, dump some water and you lighten the load.

Edit, your also going to need a torques screw driver, (t15 I think) to adjust your headlights when you load, than when you unload. There are 2 holes in front fenders under hood behind headlights. shine flash light down in one hole and look in the other, you will see the adjustment. only up and down adjustments is in there. I think I change 6 clicks up or down as needed with camper on or off.

TxGearhead wrote:

There's an aspect of the StableLoads I'm not sure about...the concentrated weight in one surface area of the leaf springs.

your talking about the lower stableLoads correct? I have often thought the same thing. but any time I have seen a broken spring it was broken where the center hole is.

Penguelephants wrote:
...Any other reflections or comments are welcome.

Take the tailgate off and leave it at home before you go to get the TC.

towpro wrote:

TxGearhead wrote:

There's an aspect of the StableLoads I'm not sure about...the concentrated weight in one surface area of the leaf springs.

your talking about the lower stableLoads correct? I have often thought the same thing. but any time I have seen a broken spring it was broken where the center hole is.

Yes, the lowers. I'm SRW so I don't have an upper overload spring, just the lower.
Ironically I was about to pull the trigger on the lower StableLoads. I have looked at their website many times. They have a link to "see what people are saying about StableLoads" that takes you to a thread on RV.Net. One of the posters said they bent his lower spring downward. I got to thinking about it and yeah that could be possible I guess. True or not I have no idea. Doing more reading in the thread there were posts about how TorkLift changed the StableLoads over a short time. I know some engineering is pure trial and error to find what works and what doesn't. I somewhat doubt TorkLift paid for a Finite Element Analysis of the stress forces of what the StableLoads do in different situations. If they did they would probably cost twice as much. I think I'n going to a Big Wig if anything.

d3500ram wrote:

Penguelephants wrote:
...Any other reflections or comments are welcome.

Take the tailgate off and leave it at home before you go to get the TC.

good one, forgot about that. There is a bag inside cab with electrical connectors to protect camera harness when you remove tailgate (if you have camera. one snaps onto both tailgate and bed side after you remove the tailgate.