Purchasing New Host Everest 11.6, Help Please

[Bandit400]

Hi all! Just joined the forum after a few weeks of lurking;) I am seriously thinking about moving forward with purchasing a truck camper. I have narrowed down the model to the Host Everest based on my needs (noted below). Would greatly appreciate any thoughts or feedback on option selection and any truck upgrades necessary to support this camper.

Plans for the TC:
I like to use the camper to sleep myself, my wife and our two teenage daughters during typically 1 to 2 week long vacations and short overnight trips for my daughter’s sports tournaments. TC seems to be the right solution as it seems finding spots to Boondock and storing the camper when not in use are going to be much easier.

Questions:
1. Any suggestions on the options I have selected below as my initial list?
2. Can I get the 11000 Btu Air Conditioner with the Off Grid Extreme Package and use a Honda EU2200 to run it instead of the noisy onan generator?
3. I plan on hauling the camper on a 2019 Ram 3500 Crew Cab DRW with 8ft bed. Truck has the 6.7L Cummins HO diesel. Available payload is around 5600lbs. I figure this camper with some light packing and fluids will be very close if not slightly over my available payload limit. What suggestions for any suspension upgrades to avoid rear sag or sway? Was thinking that I will likely need a rear sway bar and some sort of spring lift support to address some minor sagging when loaded.
4. I would greatly appreciate any tips on purchasing? Would kind of discount off MSRP is typical? Any dealer recommendations? Is sales tax typically required for out of state purchases?

Sorry for all the questions. Its a big purchase and want to do it right the first time 🙂


2021 Host Everest Options:
Interior Decor Package:
Smokey River Package

Bed Options:
Standard Queen Bed (wardrobes vary depending on model)

General Options:

• Add Synthetic Leather (standard is cloth)
  Footrest under rear couch Everest
  24" Main TV (Everest, Rainier LB)
  32" Bedroom TV (Mammoth, Yukon, Everest, Tahoe SB)
  Automatic Satellite Dish w/ GPS (for Satellite TV) (Winegard)
  AM/FM/CD/DVD w/ Alarm Clock, Bluetooth, 4 Speakers
  Exterior Speakers
  12V Charging Stations (one on each side of bed)
  Microwave/Convection Oven
  Thetford sealed (3) burner euro series cook top
  Accordion Privacy Bedroom Door
  Keyless Entry
  See Level Tank Monitors (Black, Grey, Fresh)
  Insulated Windows w/ solar cool glass (Insulated windows with solar grey glass std)
  Taller Generator Compartment (to store Portable Honda 2200)
  Norcold 9.7 Cubic ft. 12V Refrigerator/Freezer (for use with Off Grid Extreme & Extreme Plus)
  11,000 BTU Low Profile Air Conditioner (for use with on board generator) – Can I Use a Honda EU2200 if a Micro-Air soft start is installed in the air conditioner?
  Truma On Demand Hot Water Heater
  Dual 6V Batteries
  Swing Out Jack Brackets
  Power Passenger Side Awning (Yukon, Mammoth, Everest, Cascade, Rainer LB, Tahoe SB)
  Storage Bay Slide-Out Tray (Yukon, Mammoth, Everest, Cascade, Rainer LB, Tahoe SB)
  Plumb for BBQ
  Off Grid Extreme Package (plan to use a Honda EU2200 as a backup auxiliary power source)

Thanks:)

[Bedlam]

We put in an order around this time in 2016, but asked for build after April 2017. This gave us a 2018 model. If you get the details squared away and ask for an April 2021 build, it will be a 2022 model.

[Geo_Boy]

Bandit,Truck Camper Warehouse is a Host dealer in NH and there is NO sales tax in NH.:W

[mike_kellie]

We ordered a Mammoth August 1st with a delivery of Jan 4th or so. There really isn't a slow time right now for them. In fact, they were hiring when we showed up last week.
A factory trip should be on your calender if you can arrange it. You can ask if there are any changes in store for 2022. I know the lithium battery configuration is changing.

[Bandit400]

Bedlam wrote:

Bandit400 wrote:
Does Host publish MSRP prices for their base models and options like a typical car manufacturer? or do yo have to get that from a dealer? Good to know if the pricing you get from a dealer is the correct baseline to start any pricing negotiations let alone knowing if it is worth adding options during the initial purchase or afterwards.

Thanks!

If you work out a build sheet with Host for the standard and custom options for the model you want, you will get the MSRP prices. This is why it is import to contact Host before you start working with a dealer. If you can arrange a factory tour, it will be worth your time. This build sheet can be used to shop the dealer that provides you the best value. I will stress VALUE over price - Finding a good dealer is worth paying a little more if you want a good buying experience and after purchase support. I drove further to get a better dealer and better price. The value of that better dealer would have have been worth it for me even if his price was higher, so I prioritize service a little more than some...

Thanks Geo*Boy and Bedlam. I agree having a dealer who will stand behind what they sell and support you after your BIG purchase is worth paying a bit extra for if it comes down to it. Especially with the likelihood that something will need to be fixed within the first few weeks of use. I will give Host a call this week to get MSRP price breakdown:C Also, curious what the current production lead time is at this point for the Everest. I would assume early winter would be a slower sales time which provides some incentive for dealers to negotiate pricing a bit more. Although I suspect COVID demand may offset any decline this year.

[Bedlam]

Bandit400 wrote:
Does Host publish MSRP prices for their base models and options like a typical car manufacturer? or do yo have to get that from a dealer? Good to know if the pricing you get from a dealer is the correct baseline to start any pricing negotiations let alone knowing if it is worth adding options during the initial purchase or afterwards.

Thanks!

If you work out a build sheet with Host for the standard and custom options for the model you want, you will get the MSRP prices. This is why it is import to contact Host before you start working with a dealer. If you can arrange a factory tour, it will be worth your time. This build sheet can be used to shop the dealer that provides you the best value. I will stress VALUE over price - Finding a good dealer is worth paying a little more if you want a good buying experience and after purchase support. I drove further to get a better dealer and better price. The value of that better dealer would have have been worth it for me even if his price was higher, so I prioritize service a little more than some...

[Geo_Boy]

Depending on the dealer. The dealer we bought our Arctic Foxes from, Niemeyer’s Trailer Sales, does a very thorough dealer prep. They check all the seams and touched up for proper sealing, check the complete plumbing system, including the fresh and waste water tanks for function and leaks. Do a complete electrical function test, test the furnace and air conditioner, align drawer slides, check for stripped screws and repair, clean the inside and outside and supply the proper wiring to plug into your truck, installed my batteries and loaded camper onto my truck. All this included in the purchase price.:B

[Bandit400]

Thanks Geo*Boy.

What are reasonable dealer prep and freight fees (assuming purchasing from an east coast dealer)? What does dealer prep cover? Sounds like just added profit for the dealer. :h

[Geo_Boy]

I had the same question, so I called the manufacturer and asked for a manufacturer suggest list price list. The only difference should be the cost for freight and dealer prep.

[Bandit400]

Does Host publish MSRP prices for their base models and options like a typical car manufacturer? or do yo have to get that from a dealer? Good to know if the pricing you get from a dealer is the correct baseline to start any pricing negotiations let alone knowing if it is worth adding options during the initial purchase or afterwards.

Thanks!

[billtex]

Never put the jacks down. I try to park as level as possible. If needed I can place a ramp under a tire to level a bit.

Usually don’t off-load the TC unless we are staying for a full week. Our Eagle Cap is fine to use off the truck with full tanks if needed.

[Bandit400]

Bedlam wrote:
If you have Class 5 truck like mine, the suspension is firm enough that I do not drop the jacks unless I am removing the camper. Most of the Class 3 trucks I see drop the jacks just enogh to slightly unload the suspension to make a firmer foundation when walking around inside the camper. You do not need drop jacks to deploy slides.

The camper can be solely supported by the jacks when off the truck whether filled with water or empty. Some people prefer to add a backup support under the bed to reduce movement on the jacks and others use an anti-wobble system from StableCamper or Torklift to stiffen the front jacks on swing out brackets. I do not use any additional device or support when out camper is off the truck, but there were high winds, I probably would not unload the camper on to the ground since I have 11.5K lb truck sitting under my camper with it anchored at all four corners.

The first generation of tankless water heaters were not very reliable and had a bad reputation for failures. People also complain that more water needs to be run through them before hot water is deliver to your faucet, so they are not as water efficient. The ones I have seen are exclusively LPG, so you must have propane to get hot water. On the other hand, I see many more camper using these now and have not heard about exponential rises in failures. They are more efficient at heating water than maintaining a tank of hot water plus you can have an endless supply of hot when you are on hook ups. I have the dual element LPG/electric tank in mine. With the water flow set at 1/3 volume and both elements running, I can get 15 minute steaming hot showers and not run out of hot. Recycle time between showers is also fast with both elements running, but for this type of indulgence you need a large water source, a place to discharge it and electric to run the second element.

When we go to a campground with hook ups, my camper is switched to 100% electric and I only fire off the LPG water heater for those long showers or the LPG furnace if the electric fireplace cannot keep up with the cold (electric good for about 20 degrees Fahrenheit external temperatures).

Thanks Bedlam, really helpful info:C If I end up using it as much as I expect, I may follow your route in a year or two and pick up a dedicated Ram5500 Crew Cab/Chassis with custom bed. The extra payload and towing capability would be welcome for those longer trips or where I want to bring extra toys. First thing first 🙂

[TxGearhead]

I would get a current Host owner or the dealer to measure the distance between the dually jacks swung out. Then get a total width measurement of your truck fenders. Hopefully you'll have more clearance than I do.

[woodworker414]

We have 40' fifth wheel that we have decided to leave at our snowbird site in central FL.'The reason, its to big to take into the small remote places we want to explore. We love the 5th wheel for our winter home, We plan to explore FL and the rest of the beautiful country, in a Lance 1172. Figure if we can get the truck there we will get our home there also. Its aaways a trade off. Make the memories, you won't be sorry.




FL.

[Bedlam]

If you have Class 5 truck like mine, the suspension is firm enough that I do not drop the jacks unless I am removing the camper. Most of the Class 3 trucks I see drop the jacks just enogh to slightly unload the suspension to make a firmer foundation when walking around inside the camper. You do not need drop jacks to deploy slides.

The camper can be solely supported by the jacks when off the truck whether filled with water or empty. Some people prefer to add a backup support under the bed to reduce movement on the jacks and others use an anti-wobble system from StableCamper or Torklift to stiffen the front jacks on swing out brackets. I do not use any additional device or support when out camper is off the truck, but there were high winds, I probably would not unload the camper on to the ground since I have 11.5K lb truck sitting under my camper with it anchored at all four corners.

The first generation of tankless water heaters were not very reliable and had a bad reputation for failures. People also complain that more water needs to be run through them before hot water is deliver to your faucet, so they are not as water efficient. The ones I have seen are exclusively LPG, so you must have propane to get hot water. On the other hand, I see many more camper using these now and have not heard about exponential rises in failures. They are more efficient at heating water than maintaining a tank of hot water plus you can have an endless supply of hot when you are on hook ups. I have the dual element LPG/electric tank in mine. With the water flow set at 1/3 volume and both elements running, I can get 15 minute steaming hot showers and not run out of hot. Recycle time between showers is also fast with both elements running, but for this type of indulgence you need a large water source, a place to discharge it and electric to run the second element.

When we go to a campground with hook ups, my camper is switched to 100% electric and I only fire off the LPG water heater for those long showers or the LPG furnace if the electric fireplace cannot keep up with the cold (electric good for about 20 degrees Fahrenheit external temperatures).