โFeb-14-2015 06:26 AM
โNov-11-2015 01:17 PM
trail-explorer wrote:
If there's so-called "scatter" occuring, then they are using HID bulbs in a non HID designated housing.Gdetrailer wrote:
You can call it what you "like" but when I have a vehicle behind me with the blue tinted bulbs and a have a very sharp bright outline of my seats and head from said blue bulbs that tells me that the "pattern" of said blue bulbs is scattering well out of bounds from where they should be..
Even the folks leaving their high beams on while behind me does not give such a sharp outline..
If folks really want better headlights they need to address the low voltage to the bulbs first..
Manufacturers tend to use 18ga wire and lots of it, in the average vehicle there is easily 20ft if not 30ft of headlight wiring before it gets to the bulb..
Ready made relay kits typically use 14Ga and no more than 15ft of that since they connect directly to the battery..
Pretty much a solid bet that you will easily gain 20% better light by using a relay kit..
โNov-11-2015 08:23 AM
benk wrote:
There is very little 'scatter' from 'good' lens. Both design and
materials...better ones have 'lead crystal', not glass, not plastic.
Lead crystal because QH bulbs run so hot, they can melt regular glass.
Also why OEM QH with plastic lens/housings have loooong runs with small
wire gauge to knock down the voltage so they don't burn as hot.
Scatter is what bugs most folks. Worse if the main beam shines into the eyeballs.
This is why many enthusiasts go to E-Code and toss the DOT code OEMs.
Poorly designed fog lamps will have scatter above and then makes them
almost useless as fog lamps.
Plain E-Code low's 'would' make good fog lamps if they were low enough.
Here's a set of pictures of an E-Code beam pattern. Notice the lack
of scatter above the beam pattern. Notice the 'wing', which is mandated
by specification. It's to light up road signs, pedestrians, etc.
Typical E-Code beam pattern:
e-code
E-Code Z beam. Notice the 'wing' is clipped.
Another E-Code beam pattern, but with the drivers side wing removed:
This is the drivers side head lamp with the removed wing:
Here's a head on with the same vehicle. One with OEM and other after
he switched to E-Code. Same height and same angle in reference to the
vehicle.
โNov-11-2015 07:43 AM
Gdetrailer wrote:
You can call it what you "like" but when I have a vehicle behind me with the blue tinted bulbs and a have a very sharp bright outline of my seats and head from said blue bulbs that tells me that the "pattern" of said blue bulbs is scattering well out of bounds from where they should be..
Even the folks leaving their high beams on while behind me does not give such a sharp outline..
If folks really want better headlights they need to address the low voltage to the bulbs first..
Manufacturers tend to use 18ga wire and lots of it, in the average vehicle there is easily 20ft if not 30ft of headlight wiring before it gets to the bulb..
Ready made relay kits typically use 14Ga and no more than 15ft of that since they connect directly to the battery..
Pretty much a solid bet that you will easily gain 20% better light by using a relay kit..
โFeb-21-2015 12:08 PM
โFeb-20-2015 04:12 AM
No real "smoking gun" on this subject.. But many of the places I have looked at seem to agree with my observations that the blue tinted bulbs tend to not improve but may reduce your night vision. I have not been able to find any "evidence" that 5000K and up "improves" your night vision as of yet..
โFeb-19-2015 06:36 PM
โFeb-19-2015 01:23 PM
APT wrote:
I understand about coatings are filters for quantity of light. But that does not mean all 5000k headlights have less light than 3500. Reducing light output with the compromise of color is silly. But I wonder why 3200-3500k is best for automotive lighting assuming all else equal. The only benefit I know of is fog where even lower color temps are ideal.
OEM Xenon headlights are in the 4000-5000k range and LED headlamps are 5000-6000k. While one of the "benefits" may be marketing it as different is better, there are a lot of engineers that design them to perform better. Owners of vehicles in general prefer both types over incandescent. I understand OEM designs are not the same as aftermarket conversions.
โFeb-19-2015 09:30 AM
โFeb-19-2015 03:13 AM
โFeb-18-2015 03:39 PM
APT wrote:Stefonius wrote:
You're happy with 5000 Kelvin color temperature, but everyone else on the road with you is unhappy for miles after you encounter them.
I cannot say if my vehicle's lights bother you, just like you cannot say they bother "everyone else one the road". It seems that drivers today have not problems flashing their bright lights when oncoming vehicles lighting bother them. I'll stick with that feedback. If they are too bright or aimed poorly, I'll be warned - repeatedly.For proper night vision, headlights should be in the 3200-3500 Kelvin range.
Why? Site sources.
โFeb-18-2015 10:52 AM
Stefonius wrote:
You're happy with 5000 Kelvin color temperature, but everyone else on the road with you is unhappy for miles after you encounter them.
For proper night vision, headlights should be in the 3200-3500 Kelvin range.
โFeb-18-2015 09:38 AM
APT wrote:
Another good idea is to polish the headlamp lenses. They take a beating over the years with sand, rocks, etc. Clean and polish the plastic will improve the optical clarity.
โFeb-18-2015 09:30 AM
Stefonius wrote:
You're happy with 5000 Kelvin color temperature, but everyone else on the road with you is unhappy for miles after you encounter them. For proper night vision, headlights should be in the 3200-3500 Kelvin range.
โFeb-18-2015 05:15 AM
APT wrote:You're happy with 5000 Kelvin color temperature, but everyone else on the road with you is unhappy for miles after you encounter them. For proper night vision, headlights should be in the 3200-3500 Kelvin range.
The color of the light doesn't bother people, it's the aiming. 25lumen flashlight hurts if you shine in in someone's eye. The reflector design of the lamp housing that most incandescent-based vehicle use works well with any type of bulb.
After having OEM HIDs in a couple vehicles in the past, I miss their performance on my current vehicles. I used OSRAM Nightbreaker Plus in my Suburban for about 2.5 years which were very good, but bulb life is about 15 months and it's a little bit of a hassle to change them. I just went with Kensun HID conversion kit a month ago with 2-year warranty for $40. The amount of light seems to be higher than the Nightbreakers. I picked 5000k color temp which is white. So far I am very pleased with them.
Another good idea is to polish the headlamp lenses. They take a beating over the years with sand, rocks, etc. Clean and polish the plastic will improve the optical clarity.