Recommendation for heater?

[Brettmm92]

Hey,

I'm looking for a recommendation for an electric space heater. I live in my camper . Last year I bought a well reviewed space heater on amazon that kept flipping the circuit breaker switch. I returned it and settled with just the propane furnace. To help with the cost, I'm looking for a space heater that won't flip the switch. I'm assuming a lower wattage or amps one, but am kind of in the dark when it comes to electricity and how it works. If anyone has any input at all that would be appreciated. Especially if it's information about why space heaters are so ready to trip the breaker.

[pianotuna]

Since I'm in a class C, the dash heat would not circulate and there is no "fan only" option on the furnace. That is why I replaced the return air grill with dual window fans. I've tested them to -27 c (-17 f) and there were no freeze ups of the fresh water system. The fans draw a scant 27 watts so it is easy to run them from an inverter.

Huntindog wrote:
Another point. Most TTs use the furnace to keep the tanks/plumbing from freezing. In my TT, this would work down to about 6 degrees. (YMMV). That was with the furnace running. If I were to use electric heat instead, the tanks/plumbing would freeze at a higher temp.

[pianotuna]

Gdetrailer,

I do not compromise on comfort.

A candle does about 80 watts. 600/80 = 7.5 candles. Tea lights only do about 40 watts.

But then a 1500 watt heater only does 18.75 candles.

The "usual" furnace on an RV is about 5862 watts.

My load at -10 c (14 f) is about 2000 watts with a peak of 2400 and a low of 750. In theory I could use the hybrid setting on the Magnum remote to allow me to use a 15 amp shore power for those loads.

On Oct 14, 2016, my 24 hour use for *all* heating tasks was 3.3 kwh. (water heating, cooking and space heating). I used the hybrid inverter and limited my demand to 1440 watts and plugged into a kill-a-watt meter.

I do have the OEM power cord, and two auxiliary shore power cords. I have pretty good luck finding two outlets on different breakers. Three is a bit harder but still possible at some locations.

At -27 C (-17 f) my peak load goes to 7100 watts and the average is about 4000. That includes running a block heater for the car. At those temperatures I need 3 15 amp circuits--or a 50 amp with a "break out box".

The electric bill goes up by about 24 cents an hour at -10 c (14 f) where I live. It is easy to offer the folks, who are providing power, $10 which more than covers the costs. Or if you want to be stingy $5 still covers the cost.

I prefer to take them out to dinner. It costs more, but fellowship is important when you are single.

[Huntindog]

Another point. Most TTs use the furnace to keep the tanks/plumbing from freezing. In my TT, this would work down to about 6 degrees. (YMMV). That was with the furnace running. If I were to use electric heat instead, the tanks/plumbing would freeze at a higher temp.

[Grit_dog]

pianotuna wrote:
I use oil filled heaters. They often have three heat ranges. They are possibly safer than other heaters. I do heat 100% electrically, even at -37 c (-34 f).

You full time in a RV in Regina in the winter?? Brrrr. Why?

[Gdetrailer]

pianotuna wrote:
I use oil filled heaters. They often have three heat ranges. They are possibly safer than other heaters. I do heat 100% electrically, even at -37 c (-34 f).

600W, 900W, 1500W is the typical "heat ranges" of oil filled heaters.

The problem is using 600W heat range in a RV at very LOW temperatures is no better than using say a candle for heat..

For that to work you must be WILLING to put up keeping the RV AT A LOWER TEMP.

OP is not going to "keep" a RV at at say 70 degrees when it is 0 F with 600W of electric heat, nope, not going to happen.

Typical RVs have very little insulation, R3 is pretty much standard issue and if I remember correctly, Piano you did "modify" with more insulation in your RV for the extreme weather camping you do..

I have used a oil filled heater in my RV when I was rebuilding it, took every bit of 1500W to keep it at 60 F when the outdoor temps were at 32F-40 F..

The second issue the OP has is most likely that circuit they are plugging in to is most likely SHARED somewhere else in the house they are trying to use..

They need to find a second outlet on a DIFFERENT CIRCUIT at the house to run the heater from..

Not sure the home owner will be happy when they get that electric bill, might as well just set the electric heater outside and heat the world..

[2oldman]

Brettmm92 wrote:
I'm not looking to find the exact wattage or amps I can run within a certain breaker, a small, simple space heater that doesnt max out the wattage or amperage that would trip a breaker is what I'm looking for.

:?

[pianotuna]

Brettmm92 invest in a Kill-a-Watt meter. They can do voltage, amps, watts, and power factor! Between about 20 to 30 bucks on Amazon.

[GrandpaKip]

Brettmm92 wrote:
Im afraid I dont know the numbers. But my setup is a normal outdoor (Im assuming 120 volt) outlet from a house with the thickest gauge extension cord they had at local harware store and an adapter to my camper. I can run many things at the same time, computer, tv, instant pot, fan, even a/c and I never had a problem but the space heater on high was a bust. And I didn't even try to run it on low, I just didn't want something that could provoke an extra headache for the property owner with the circuit tripping. Truth is I am fine paying the propane price for heating but if I could supplement that with an efficient space heater I would be happier. I assumed there would be someone on here with such experience. I'm not looking to find the exact wattage or amps I can run within a certain breaker, a small, simple space heater that doesnt max out the wattage or amperage that would trip a breaker is what I'm looking for. Hopefully something efficiently designed and worth buying in my situation.

Unfortunately, you do need to know the electrical draw and availability of amps. Otherwise, you and everybody here are just guessing.
First thing is the size of the circuit breaker that is flipping and what else is on that circuit in the house. When you draw more amps than the breaker is rated for, it shuts the circuit off. When it flips, are there any things in the house that stop working?

Try running the heater on low and see what happens. As stated before, basically all portable heaters use the same amount of electricity on high. Some may be more efficient in their use, but 1500 watts is 1500 watts no matter what is using it.

[theoldwizard1]

pianotuna wrote:
I use oil filled heaters. They often have three heat ranges. They are possibly safer than other heaters. I do heat 100% electrically, even at -37 c (-34 f).

Oil filled heater give nice, even. A little slow to start putting out heat and you might need a fan to move the air around.

[pianotuna]

I use oil filled heaters. They often have three heat ranges. They are possibly safer than other heaters. I do heat 100% electrically, even at -37 c (-34 f).

[deltabravo]

SoundGuy wrote:
A typical 1500 watt electric heater won't draw any more than 12.5 amps @ 120 vac so if you tripped a breaker then you've got something else running on that same circuit. Buying a different electric heater isn't going to change this, nor would you want one rated at less draw as it will also output less heat. Rather, the solution is to select whatever 1500 watt heater you prefer based on features offered and ensure it's the only device running on that circuit.

Ditto.

Find out what other items are on the circuit that the heater is plugged in to and turn them off, or pick a different outlet to plug the heater in to.

[theoldwizard1]

DutchmenSport wrote:

3rd. If we ran a portable electric heater, or an electric skillet, or an electric griddle, we always plugged it into the campground shore power post by running a separate orange 50 foot extension cord into the camper.

That is really sad. It just tells me there are "less than perfect" connections made in the AC wiring causing voltage drop and consequently additional current draw.

[Gdetrailer]

Brettmm92 wrote:
Im afraid I dont know the numbers. But my setup is a normal outdoor (Im assuming 120 volt) outlet from a house with the thickest gauge extension cord they had at local harware store and an adapter to my camper. I can run many things at the same time, computer, tv, instant pot, fan, even a/c and I never had a problem but the space heater on high was a bust. And I didn't even try to run it on low, I just didn't want something that could provoke an extra headache for the property owner with the circuit tripping. Truth is I am fine paying the propane price for heating but if I could supplement that with an efficient space heater I would be happier. I assumed there would be someone on here with such experience. I'm not looking to find the exact wattage or amps I can run within a certain breaker, a small, simple space heater that doesnt max out the wattage or amperage that would trip a breaker is what I'm looking for. Hopefully something efficiently designed and worth buying in my situation.

If the outlet looks like this..



(15A 120V)

or this..



(20A 120V)

you are pretty much out of luck with running a electric heater of sufficient wattage to make any real difference.

These are typical house circuits and they only provide 15A up to 20A or 1800W up to 2400W.

In order to use an electric heater at max of 1500W for portable heaters you WILL have to TURN OFF EVERYTHING in your RV PLUS EVERYTHING IN THE HOUSE THAT SHARES THE OUTLET YOU ARE USING.

Your RV fridge uses 275W-325W depending on model, your converter (supplies 12V for 12V lighting) can draw as much as 1000W depending on how many 12V lights are on, if your furnace is running and any other 12V item is running.

What you need is a 30A 120V RV receptacle AND 30A wiring/breaker in the homes breaker panel. in order to be able to run a electric heater and a few other things at the same time..

Looks like this..



DO NOT USE A "DRYER" receptacle/circuit, those are wired with 240V which WILL DESTROY ALL OF THE 120V devices in your RV..

Alternately, if you cannot have a 30A RV circuit put in then find another outdoor 20A receptacle that you can use that is a DIFFERENT CIRCUIT BREAKER in the house and RUN A SECOND EXTENSION CORD to the RV.. Then run the electric heater off the second extension cord.

Just keep in mind, using that electric heater WILL INCREASE the electric bill for the home owner.. Make sure they are OK with that..

[2112]

Find a small 1200W portable heater. You said you bought the highest output you could find. Is it an 1800W heater?

[Brettmm92]

Im afraid I dont know the numbers. But my setup is a normal outdoor (Im assuming 120 volt) outlet from a house with the thickest gauge extension cord they had at local harware store and an adapter to my camper. I can run many things at the same time, computer, tv, instant pot, fan, even a/c and I never had a problem but the space heater on high was a bust. And I didn't even try to run it on low, I just didn't want something that could provoke an extra headache for the property owner with the circuit tripping. Truth is I am fine paying the propane price for heating but if I could supplement that with an efficient space heater I would be happier. I assumed there would be someone on here with such experience. I'm not looking to find the exact wattage or amps I can run within a certain breaker, a small, simple space heater that doesnt max out the wattage or amperage that would trip a breaker is what I'm looking for. Hopefully something efficiently designed and worth buying in my situation.