I built my sewage holding tank macerator pump using a marine macerator from West Marine many years ago.Reddog bought a very nice macerator (or as he calls it, "Margerita Mixer") around the same time.... he used it weekly for many years... and flawlessly at that .... mine has been used infrequently, it has always ahut down several times during each use for what I guessed was/is over-heating (this is the pump shutting down not the campers 12 VDC circuit breaker)I'm tired of messing with my contraption... (did I say messing?)Wayne, if you see this would you please tell me what brand and where you got it... and tell others about your experiences with it. You disposal system at home works very nicely.Thank you for any additional advice in advance Sleepy

not the answer you were looking for, but I bought a "made in china" knockoff from Ebay. used it maybe 12 times and it stopped. Turns out the only seal between bump and bearing was a sealed bearing, which did not stay sealed.And bearing is penned so good into pump flange your not going to replace it.I don't recommend what I bought.I also am looking forward to the answer of "what lasted"

Red Dog can't help with macerator pumps.They are smart, but not enough to know about macerator pumpsOn the other hand, Reddog1 probably CAN help.Read this Info

Thanks for your confidence in my having my poop together on the Macerator pump. I think I purchased my pump in about 2005 or 2006. I still use it, but not as often as I once did. I seldom use my stinky slinky, but it serves as a backup if my macerator fails.This is the pump I purchased from Camping World. FloJet RV Waste Pump Kit As I recall, the price I paid was also $250. You can buy lower cost units, but for me it was not worth the drama to adapt one of them to the TC. The storage box is nice, if you use it.I also use a Clearview 5" Sewer Adapter with Bayonet Lugs, between the macerator and TC connection. My dump valve flange points down toward the ground. The adapter allows me to see that the macerator is empty, preventing a surprise when I take the pump off. When I rense my tanks, I can see that the rinse water is clear. I tried a 90 Degree Clear Sewer Hose Adapter with Bayonet Lugs - See more at: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/90-degree-clear-sewer-hose-adapter-with-bayonet-lugs/22171#sthash.PtA5U9qy.dpuf, but with the pump horizontal, it had the tendency to come off.I modified the 12-volt gater clamps so I could use the gater clamps or just plug it in the a 12-volt connector by the dump valve. The wires provided were a little short to connect the macerator to the dump valves and connect to the battery.I use a Brass Quick Connect Fitting for the water supply. It has a check valve. I have found it easier to connect a water hose by attaching the quick disconnect to the hose then simply plug the hose in. On the macerator discharge I use a Quick Connect Fitting without a check valve. I also use a Gilmour Full Flow Aluminum Water Hose Connector With Shut-Off Valve # 20515. This has a full flow, with no restriction. Very important. Set up is discharge hose (3/4-inch), Full flow shutoff, quick connect. The objective here is to disconnect the discharge hose with it closed off, preventing "stuff" from running out of the hose.I keep a 25-foot 3/4-inch hose in the TC for those times I dump while on the road. I also have a 3/4" hose at home to dump in my clean out that I modified for macerator dumping. My first setup, without the quick connects.A couple of things I have learned:1 When you first connect your pump, bump the on button. It is not unusual for the impeller to be stuck if it has dried out. If it does not spin use screwdriver to turn the motor. DO NOT TURN THE MOTOR BACKWARDS IT WILL DESTROY THE IMPELLER. I have had to replace my impeller two times simply because I turned the motor the wrong direction when it was stuck.2 It prevents number 1 above, if you put about a quarter teaspoon of cooking or of similar in the pump and bump the on button. It will lubricate the impeller. 3 Long needle nose pliers will remove the hair that wraps around the impeller. If dry, a propane torch also can be used. It is not necessary to remove the impeller.4 Always open the gray first and run a little to insure your connections are correct. Then close the gray, dump the black, dump the gray to help rinse the adapter, macerator and dump hose. Mine came loose two times, when I used the 90-degree adapter. It has never failed with the straight adapter.5. Do not connect the macerator to your dump valve/s, and run the macerator with the valves closed. Bump the on switch okay, run no. If you have the fresh water running and discharge dump hose valve open, you can run the pump. Closed no.As I have posted before, storage space in a TC is scarce, and if properly maintained your macerator can serve multiple purposes. The most useful is dumping your tanks and use it for making a Slurpee or Margerita machine.

Good price here:http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-toilets-tanks/Flojet-macerator-portable-kit.htmIf you have a large enough inverter you might want to consider a 120 volt unit instead of 12 volt.

Question:If you use the gray water to flush and rinse why the freshwater hose ?Thanks,Mike

Red Dog help... macerator pump | Good Sam Community

Reddog1
Explorer II
Nov 01, 2015
It probably makes no difference, the poop will pass. Besides, no hose is needed when the macerator is used for making Slurpees.
sleepy
Explorer
Nov 01, 2015
Reddog1 wrote:
sleepy wrote:
Reddog1 wrote:
I may be corrected, but I think poop hoses is supposed to be black.

That is what i thougfht too... until I saw this:. ...
I have search and can find nothing to support any color of garden type hose for black water. Best I could do is gray for gray water. I would be interested if someone has a link to a source saying what is standard.

At home, I have a black hose clamped to a ABS pipe that goes to my clean-out. The hose is coiled on a hanger on the garage. Not easily removed for any other purpose. In my TC, I have a black hose stored with my macerator in a compartment that houses my dump valves. My TC water hose is in a different compartment. I prefer the plastic coil hoses. I have two, but usually only use one.

Gray hose
Gray hose and a Green hose and a macerator with black hose

There doesn't seem to be a universal standard.... or even a local one: When my old green hose gets replaced it'll be with a black one, I promise.

Looking at the second link I found something interesting on the last item on the page...

It says... SHURflo MACERATOR 12V DC PUMP

Designed specifically for sanitation waste and fish box evacuation, SHURflo’s Macerator pump...........

I've always wondered about the fishes sanitary waste. This has been a smelly thread.

sleepy
Reddog1
Explorer II
Nov 01, 2015
sleepy wrote:
Reddog1 wrote:
I may be corrected, but I think poop hoses is supposed to be black.

That is what i thougfht too... until I saw this:. ...
I have search and can find nothing to support any color of garden type hose for black water. Best I could do is gray for gray water. I would be interested if someone has a link to a source saying what is standard.

At home, I have a black hose clamped to a ABS pipe that goes to my clean-out. The hose is coiled on a hanger on the garage. Not easily removed for any other purpose. In my TC, I have a black hose stored with my macerator in a compartment that houses my dump valves. My TC water hose is in a different compartment. I prefer the plastic coil hoses. I have two, but usually only use one.

Gray hose
Gray hose and a Green hose and a macerator with black hose
kerry4951
Explorer
Nov 01, 2015
Heres another suggestion. Every time Im done using mine I always make sure to use needle nose pliers or tweezers to clear out the pump knives. Hair and "stuff" tends to get wrapped around the knives and should be cleaned after every use. Ignore it and eventually somethings going to jam up and give problems. Basicly routine maintenance after every use.
sleepy
Explorer
Nov 01, 2015
Reddog1 wrote:
I may be corrected, but I think poop hoses is supposed to be black.

That is what i thougfht too... until I saw this:

After I used the green hose I didn't feel like it would ever be used for anything else:E

I recieved an email.... my macerator will be here Monday, Nov 2. Whee! just in time.

Thanks again.
Reddog1
Explorer II
Oct 31, 2015
I may be corrected, but I think poop hoses is supposed to be black.
Reddog1
Explorer II
Oct 31, 2015
The quick connect on the dump hose does not have a check valve, it is straight through. It is easier to leave part of the quick connect on the pump and the other part on the hose. Much easier to connect than screwing the hose connector. The Gilmour Full Flow Aluminum Water Hose Connector valve is closed before the quick connect is closed, and it prevents spills. Raise the valve above the hose discharge, then open the valve to drain the hose.
sleepy
Explorer
Oct 31, 2015
My fresh water hoses are white and certified water safe. Most of the time the short 10' hose will do all I need... I also have a 50' white one that I have uncoiled once or twice.

My macerator hose is green... I carry it on the hitch carrier.... no one has ever tried to steal it...
deltabravo
Nomad
Oct 30, 2015
sleepy wrote:
With the new pump I think I'll dedicate one of my own hoses for it.

I use a gray colored hose for my rinse duties. It's a gray on that RV stores sell.
Since it's gray, it's impossible to mix it up with my fresh water hoses.
sleepy
Explorer
Oct 30, 2015
By the time the 3/4" hose gets put away it has been flushed several times with clean water.... and even then we don't use that hose for anything else.

Check valves on the clean water lines are to prevent contaminated water from being pushed into the clean hose by pump pressure.

I try to prevent cross contamination every way I can... I wear surgical gloves when I'm at a dump station.... but I see others that don't.... they wioe their hands on their pants legs....

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Red Dog help... macerator pump

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