Thanks for your confidence in my having my poop together on the Macerator pump. I think I purchased my pump in about 2005 or 2006. I still use it, but not as often as I once did. I seldom use my stinky slinky, but it serves as a backup if my macerator fails.
This is the pump I purchased from Camping World.
FloJet RV Waste Pump Kit As I recall, the price I paid was also $250. You can buy lower cost units, but for me it was not worth the drama to adapt one of them to the TC. The storage box is nice, if you use it.
I also use a
Clearview 5" Sewer Adapter with Bayonet Lugs, between the macerator and TC connection. My dump valve flange points down toward the ground. The adapter allows me to see that the macerator is empty, preventing a surprise when I take the pump off. When I rense my tanks, I can see that the rinse water is clear. I tried a
90 Degree Clear Sewer Hose Adapter with Bayonet Lugs - See more at: http://www.campingworld.com/shop..., but with the pump horizontal, it had the tendency to come off.
I modified the 12-volt gater clamps so I could use the gater clamps or just plug it in the a 12-volt connector by the dump valve. The wires provided were a little short to connect the macerator to the dump valves and connect to the battery.
I use a
Brass Quick Connect Fitting for the water supply. It has a check valve. I have found it easier to connect a water hose by attaching the quick disconnect to the hose then simply plug the hose in.
On the macerator discharge I use a Quick Connect Fitting without a check valve. I also use a
Gilmour Full Flow Aluminum Water Hose Connector With Shut-Off Valve # 20515. This has a full flow, with no restriction. Very important. Set up is discharge hose (3/4-inch), Full flow shutoff, quick connect. The objective here is to disconnect the discharge hose with it closed off, preventing "stuff" from running out of the hose.
I keep a 25-foot 3/4-inch hose in the TC for those times I dump while on the road. I also have a 3/4" hose at home to dump in my clean out that I modified for macerator dumping.
My first setup, without the quick connects.
A couple of things I have learned:
1 When you first connect your pump, bump the on button. It is not unusual for the impeller to be stuck if it has dried out. If it does not spin use screwdriver to turn the motor. DO NOT TURN THE MOTOR BACKWARDS IT WILL DESTROY THE IMPELLER. I have had to replace my impeller two times simply because I turned the motor the wrong direction when it was stuck.
2 It prevents number 1 above, if you put about a quarter teaspoon of cooking or of similar in the pump and bump the on button. It will lubricate the impeller.
3 Long needle nose pliers will remove the hair that wraps around the impeller. If dry, a propane torch also can be used. It is not necessary to remove the impeller.
4 Always open the gray first and run a little to insure your connections are correct. Then close the gray, dump the black, dump the gray to help rinse the adapter, macerator and dump hose. Mine came loose two times, when I used the 90-degree adapter. It has never failed with the straight adapter.
5. Do not connect the macerator to your dump valve/s, and run the macerator with the valves closed. Bump the on switch okay, run no. If you have the fresh water running and discharge dump hose valve open, you can run the pump. Closed no.
As I have posted before, storage space in a TC is scarce, and if properly maintained your macerator can serve multiple purposes. The most useful is dumping your tanks and use it for making a Slurpee or Margerita machine.
2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda
Toad: 91 Zuke