Reese Dual Cam Head Replacement
Has anyone had luck with replacement of a faulty hitch head by Reese? I called Reese today regarding the upper lip of the trunnion socket on the drivers side bending on a 45 degree bend toward the tr...
Forum Discussion
I love our DC now that I have it set up right. Not always easy to do at first. Took a while to figure out that the spring bars were way too undersized for the actual tongue. Regretfully, had bought the smaller bars before TT arrived and I based it on the factory dry tongue wt. Lesson learned there.
Funny thing is, the new 1200 lb bars are about 1/2" longer than the 800 lb ones. With the smaller ones, I ran out of thread adjustment on the cam arm threads. No-one seems to know why the bars are different lengths.
I have a feeling that a part of the Reese problems is that some parts are made domestically and some are offshore. Our DC arms/brackets are stamped "made in China". I've no idea where the other parts are made or if we got new or old stock. Also don't know if we got Reese or Draw-tite head. Ordered a Draw-tite package and it's labelled Reese. I know Reese bought out D-T, but where did our parts originate? I bought our Reese hitch partly because I thought is was made in the US. Then I read that the manufacturing was going to move to China. But we have parts already made there. "Made in China" of course raises a red flag for quality....
It's hard to imagine the head bending or breaking like that. What if it failed at highway speed? I wonder if regular oiling in the head/trunnion would affect that? Does Reese have any kind of factory warranty? Got ours on ebay so can't go back to vendor if needed, but you don't really expect anything to fail.
Does weight in bed of the truck actually enter into the bar rating? I thought the rating was based on the trailer tongue weight. At least that's what the label on the bars say. Kinda makes sense though because it's more vertical static and dynamic force on the hitch? But with stiffer suspension of a 3/4 ton (or 1 ton even) does payload in the truck matter as much? I might learn something here.
Sounds like it would be a good idea to move up in hitch weight rating in any event as you could be maxed out or even over. I did learn that with our undersized bars that I could not get proper weight transfer plus we had excessive bounce in the rear of the trailer. I would say that you'll be happier with at least the next size up including spring bars. I just wouldn't use too oversized bar ratings. Maybe don't want to jump from frying pan to fire. At least you are intimately familiar with the Reese stuff. You'd also be giving up the self-centering action which is a feature I like, but then have not tried the friction only based type.
If you are near your hitch receiver rating, curious, have you weighed your truck to find out what the actual payload capacity is? I was surprised to find out the actual on our F250 is 1800 versus the 2800 lbs on the door jamb sticker. Major difference but fortunately our trailer tongue wt. is just under 1K.
I've heard others say that Reese is pretty accommodating, but I don't know.
Funny thing is, the new 1200 lb bars are about 1/2" longer than the 800 lb ones. With the smaller ones, I ran out of thread adjustment on the cam arm threads. No-one seems to know why the bars are different lengths.
I have a feeling that a part of the Reese problems is that some parts are made domestically and some are offshore. Our DC arms/brackets are stamped "made in China". I've no idea where the other parts are made or if we got new or old stock. Also don't know if we got Reese or Draw-tite head. Ordered a Draw-tite package and it's labelled Reese. I know Reese bought out D-T, but where did our parts originate? I bought our Reese hitch partly because I thought is was made in the US. Then I read that the manufacturing was going to move to China. But we have parts already made there. "Made in China" of course raises a red flag for quality....
It's hard to imagine the head bending or breaking like that. What if it failed at highway speed? I wonder if regular oiling in the head/trunnion would affect that? Does Reese have any kind of factory warranty? Got ours on ebay so can't go back to vendor if needed, but you don't really expect anything to fail.
Does weight in bed of the truck actually enter into the bar rating? I thought the rating was based on the trailer tongue weight. At least that's what the label on the bars say. Kinda makes sense though because it's more vertical static and dynamic force on the hitch? But with stiffer suspension of a 3/4 ton (or 1 ton even) does payload in the truck matter as much? I might learn something here.
Sounds like it would be a good idea to move up in hitch weight rating in any event as you could be maxed out or even over. I did learn that with our undersized bars that I could not get proper weight transfer plus we had excessive bounce in the rear of the trailer. I would say that you'll be happier with at least the next size up including spring bars. I just wouldn't use too oversized bar ratings. Maybe don't want to jump from frying pan to fire. At least you are intimately familiar with the Reese stuff. You'd also be giving up the self-centering action which is a feature I like, but then have not tried the friction only based type.
If you are near your hitch receiver rating, curious, have you weighed your truck to find out what the actual payload capacity is? I was surprised to find out the actual on our F250 is 1800 versus the 2800 lbs on the door jamb sticker. Major difference but fortunately our trailer tongue wt. is just under 1K.
I've heard others say that Reese is pretty accommodating, but I don't know.
