Forum Discussion

jefffoxsr's avatar
jefffoxsr
Explorer
Nov 13, 2013

Removing and storing truck camper

What is the correct procedure to remove the truck camper from the bed of the truck to avoid putting so much pressure on the front pads that they break?

Also, for storing the truck camper over the winter for 5 months is it ok to leave it on the jacks with the jacks almost fully collapsed so that the truck camper is about 12 inches off of the ground?

Also, is it a good idea to leave the back a few inches lower than the front so rain will run off the roof easily and efficiently?

Are there other tricks or hard-learned lessons for efficient storage?

Thanks.
  • The jacks are there to support the camper when not on the truck, that's their purpose. Simply raise each one (a little at a time) until the camper is a few inches higher than the bed floor, undo the camper to truck plug and drive out from under it. Then lower the jacks a little at a time.

    My Lance instructions state to always keep the front a little higher than the back. When jacking it up to take off the truck I always do the front first so that cabover doesn't smack the truck roof. When reinstalling I lower the rear first for the same reason.

    As for winterizing, there's a ton of info on here and around the web. From what I've learned, it's really not that much different than any other RV.
  • Thanks for the info. I don't plan to use any support structures under the camper because at this storage location it is very likely mice will get into the camper.
  • jefffoxsr wrote:
    Thanks for the info. I don't plan to use any support structures under the camper because at this storage location it is very likely mice will get into the camper.
    Mice can really ruin a nice camper. :( They can get in so many ways, through any small opening.

    Avoid parking it under a tree, as mice can climb trees and jump down onto the roof and get in via a roof vent. Also don't leave the shore power cord or water hose connected, as mice can climb up the cord or hose and get in through the hole the cord or hose pulls out from. Mice can also jump higher than 12 inches, so you may want to store it higher up than that so they don't get in through the waste tank cleanout access area. And don't leave the sewer slinky hose connected either.
  • Rockrash wrote:
    Use pallets under the floor of the camper to support it.


    Pallets, blocks of wood, jack stands, barrels, pretty much anything that will support the floor.

    I use these.

    My brother built a basement (interlocking plywood sheets) to set the camper on.
  • SoCalDesertRider wrote:
    jefffoxsr wrote:
    Thanks for the info. I don't plan to use any support structures under the camper because at this storage location it is very likely mice will get into the camper.
    Mice can really ruin a nice camper. :( They can get in so many ways, through any small opening.

    Avoid parking it under a tree, as mice can climb trees and jump down onto the roof and get in via a roof vent. Also don't leave the shore power cord or water hose connected, as mice can climb up the cord or hose and get in through the hole the cord or hose pulls out from. Mice can also jump higher than 12 inches, so you may want to store it higher up than that so they don't get in through the waste tank cleanout access area. And don't leave the sewer slinky hose connected either.


    Good info.

    About 10 years ago we had a pregnant mouse climb up the shore power cord, make a nest in the bed sheets and have a family. What a mess, but fortunately the sheets soaked it all up and nothing leaked through to the mattress.
    These vermin can get through the smallest openings, so I wonder if it is possible to make a TC completely mouse proof.
    Our TC is covered for the winter but I leave a half dozen mouse traps inside various compartments/closets and check them every week or so.