Replace flat tire with Torflex suspension

[mhsmith]

We purchased a new to us 19 Flagstaff 29RKWS TT in April with the Torflex axles. We are using it on and off in the driveway as we have some remodelling going on in the house. Have taken a couple close by trips but before we venture out, I have been trying to figure out the best way to go about changing one. I am considering the wedges that you roll a good tire on. Our old TT was lower than this one and had springs on the axles so it was pretty easy to figure that one out.

[GDS-3950BH]

JIMNLIN wrote:
Some with torsion type axles say the trailer aid type ramps doesn't work with that type suspension.
Whatever method you use make a dry run at home to see if it works. Out in the middle of no where isn't the place to find out it didn't work.

Trailer Aid works with Torflex axles, it depends on which "start angle" the axle was ordered with. The user has to be smarter than the axle and trailer aid.

Trailer Aid comes in two different versions, standard and plus. The plus version adds an additional inch of lift. In any case a block of 2x10 under the ramp will usually give you enough lift if the start angle of the axle is such that you need it.

If you have a Lippert frame I would suggest not jacking under it unless its an absolute neccesity (as the OP's Windjammer has). They are lucky to stay intact just with normal use. I have used a piece of true 2x4 oak cribbing that spans both torflex mounting brackets when we had a Rockwood with Torflex axles, and wanted to use a bottle or floor jack to get both wheels up at the same time. On conventional sprung suspension a floor jack below the u bolts on one of the tubes. I'd never place a jack under a paper Lippert frame.

[ajriding]

DanKirk wrote:
Dexter Torflex

That'd be a yes, just regular torsion axles

[DanKirk]

Dexter Torflex

[ajriding]

I assume Torqflex is a name brand of axles? And by the name they are torsion axles?

Trailer axels generally do not have much travel, 2 inches is about average. If you have a 3 or 4 inch block or ramp or rock to roll one axle up on then the other axle should be in the air on the side you rolled up on. With two axles you can get by with never using a jack.

If you do need a jack then as long as the jack is under the actual trailer frame and not the floor joist or sub-frame sections then you will be fine, be as close to the axle as possible of course.

I am not sure I even understand the question...

[DanKirk]

I have a Rockwood Windjammer that has the same Dexter TorFlex suspension. I just use a bottle jack on the bottom of the steel beam between the two tires. Do not put jack on the axle tube, you'll bend the tube and damage the suspension parts inside the tube.

[Durb]

I use the Andersen Rapid Jack for my Torflex axles on my fifth wheel. It doesn't take much roll-on to lift the other tire. I am comfortable using this item as I average 2,100# per wheel and my tires are rated for 3,400#. An annual bearing check on my trailer requires lifting the tire, rotating it and hand side load it for play. With the Rapid Jack, I can do all four wheels in less than half an hour. It comes with a rubber friction mat which is neccessary.

[JIMNLIN]

Some with torsion type axles say the trailer aid type ramps doesn't work with that type suspension.
Whatever method you use make a dry run at home to see if it works. Out in the middle of no where isn't the place to find out it didn't work.

[K_and_I]

Another Trailer Aid user. I also use it when I repack wheel bearings. On my trailer, there is only one spot, directly between the wheels where I can get a jack because of the underbelly covering. The trailer aid, IMO, is safer out in the field where it can be difficult to get a solid, level place to put a jack. YMMV

[mhsmith]

Thanks guys ...that was the kinda info I was looking for.

[Sjm9911]

The wedges work fine. I also carry bottle jacks in case stuff goes bad. Along with a lot of wood. Lol. But ibe only had to use the wedge so far.

[Fisherman]

Why flatten a tire to check for measurements, just subtract the height of the sidewall from the distance between ground and your jacking point, not rocket science. To lift my torflex axle on my cargo trailer, I put the jacks lift point directly under where the stub axle and swing arm meet. Pretty easy and fast.

[Grit_dog]

theoldwizard1 wrote:


I always prefer to jack under a section of the frame rail, near the flat tire, that is well reinforced.

If you jack does not have enough lift, build up UNDERNEATH the jack with blocks of wood placed perpendicular to the jack base. Worst case you may need 2 or 3 layers.

Remember, scissors jack start to get unstable once the are past about 50% of their maximum lift.

Not cheap, but this has a built in jack stand so no chance of hydraulic failure injuring someone. Powerbuilt Unijack - 6000 lb. Capacity

Why would you jack up the frame and have to lift it twice? as high? That makes no sense and I'd like to see how that is accomplished with any bottle jack including the combo contraption you posted. Barely enough travel in a typical bottle jack to get a tire all the way up lifting under the axle, much less taking the load off the suspension as well.

OP, I currently have 2 different tandem axle trailers with torsion sprung axles. I jack them up from the axles every time and have with virtually every other trailer and vehicle if it's possible to do.
Put the jack directly under the axle as close to the outboard end of the axle as you can. Just like you were thinking.
You are right on the ramps though and ramping the good wheel up to lift the flat one works even better on a torsion axle than it does on a leaf spring axle, as the 2 axles aren't connected by the pivot on leaf spring axles, so one doesn't have to ramp up as high to get the flat off the ground.

[mhsmith]

That is kinda neat. I prefer close to the wheel so I don't have to lift it higher than needed as the wheel assembly drops...such as under a control arm as compared to the frame. I will definitely look into that jack as it may be the ticket for my use. Will have to 'flatten' a tire to check measurements for this use. Thanks

[theoldwizard1]

Jacking points have nothing to do with the suspension.

I always prefer to jack under a section of the frame rail, near the flat tire, that is well reinforced. If you are don't feel that the frame can handle more than 50% of the gross weight of the trailer, buy a piece of 1/4"-1/2" steel a bit wider than the bottom of the frame rail and 6"-10" long. Place that between the top of the jack and the frame.

If you jack does not have enough lift, build up UNDERNEATH the jack with blocks of wood placed perpendicular to the jack base. Worst case you may need 2 or 3 layers.

Remember, scissors jack start to get unstable once the are past about 50% of their maximum lift.

Not cheap, but this has a built in jack stand so no chance of hydraulic failure injuring someone. Powerbuilt Unijack - 6000 lb. Capacity