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Replacement Jack suggestions

jamesinkster
Explorer
Explorer
I'd like to replace the old Hijacker jacks on my old Northern Lite camper to make it easier to pop the camper on and off. Currently I have to budget a couple hours for the whole process, and I want to cut down on that considerably.

The Hijackers are too short to reach the ground with my truck (F350 with 4" riser in the bed so the camper clears the cab) so I always have to block them with stumps, etc.

I've looked at the Stablelift system and think it'd be ideal for my situation, but the installation process (and cost) seems a bit prohibitive for an older camper.

Can anyone recommend some reliable jacks that would bolt onto the existing mounting plates? Even better, some good reliable electric jacks? The Happijacks are the only electric jacks i'm aware of, but people seem to complain about them breaking a lot...

Thanks!
6 REPLIES 6

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you change your existing jacks (hydraulic) to electric, you will still have the four wobbly (my opinion) legs, and the added cost of the Stable Lift is not that much greater. There are definate advantages to the Stable Lift and a couple of disadvantages. Areguments can be made for both systems depending on the type of camping you do. I suggest you do a search on this Forum for the Stable Lift to determine if it would work for you.

If your camping style is to offload your TC at your campsite, I think the hydraulic jacks are a big hassle, the electric jacks are a great improvement, and the Stable Lift is fantistic. If you go serious offroad, the lift may not work as well for you. I'm not talking about forest roads, I'm talking super rough deep creeks and trails stuff.

I have had hydraulic jacks on several TCs over the years. I have rebuilt several. They are pretty simple, and the last kit I bought cost about $50. Seldom is a kit needed, usually about 2 to 6 "O" rings from the local hardware store. Repairing electric jacks can get spendy. I've never needed to make repairs on my lift, but have priced the motor and gear assembly at less than $150.

The four jack systems are very wobbly. The stronger and gusty winds really compound the problem. Not an issue with the Stable Lift.

I have discovered a couple of things that are more comfotrable loading and unloading a TC with four jacks, especially hydraulics.

The most important is to leave the TC on the truck when camping, especially with hydraulic jacks. When loading or unloading try to avoid windy conditions.

At home, after raising the TC off the truck, block the TC at that height. There are several methods you can use to acomplish this. Leave the hydraulic jacks in the down position after you have unloaded.

With hydraulic jacks, when the TC is on the truck, use the safty bracket or chain to hold the jacks up. Then loosen the knob for the pump, and push the jack lever in. If you do not, the pressure in the jack will push the pump out and promote rusting of the pump shaft.

When you want to lift the TC with hyrdaulic jacks, disingage the safty brackets or chains to hold the jacks up, open the jack knobs about half way out. Push the bottom of the jacks to the ground. After doing this to all four jacks, tighten the knob of a jack and pump till you slightly raise that corner of the TC. Do this with all four jacks. This will bleed the air and prime the pumps.

I will pump one jack untill the opposite side is between 2 and 4 inches off the ground. I then go to the raised jack, loosen the knob, push the foot of the jack down, tighten the knob and give a couple of pumps to put pressure/load on that jack.

I will go to the other end of the TC and repeat the process. The objective is to raise the TC with the least amount of pumps pushing air. This is why I push the jack foot down with the valve/knob open.

I am sure you did not ask for a book, but I thought you might be interested in comparing how you and I might differ using our hydraulic jacks.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
I run manual RT's and use my DeWalt 18 volt cordless drill to raise and lower them. Pretty simple and the RT jacks can be upgraded anytime with motorized heads (when your wallet allows it).
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

jamesinkster
Explorer
Explorer
Interesting, Reddog1 -- I hadn't heard about jack extensions. Good idea.

I do like the idea of electric jacks though, in that it'd definitely cut down on the time taken to jack up (and lower) the camper. Reliability seems to be a concern, though! Maybe the Atwoods have a better reputation. I'll investigate.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
jamesinkster wrote:
...I've looked at the Stablelift system and think it'd be ideal for my situation, but the installation process (and cost) seems a bit prohibitive for an older camper. ...


I installed a Stable Lift on my 1988 11.5 foot Bigfoot TC for my 2WD Dodge 2500. It took a couple of days doing the install with no help. Cost me $2500 in 2006. I bought a DRW 4x4 this year and had to go back to my hydraulic jacks. To reinstall the lift, I will have to widen it and make some modification for the added height of the 4x4. My truck has stock tires and no lift. I will probably do the mods this summer. I really do miss my Stable Lift.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Why not just add 6" extensions to your existing jacks?

I have about 4" extensions on my hydraulic jacks that have been there since 1988. They bolt to the bottom pads of your existing jacks.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

GeoBoy
Explorer
Explorer
How about Atwood jacks?