netdefilr wrote:
opnspaces:
Yes I do. Should I check the battery without the connections made? You're talking about the new or the old battery now? I did buy a new one over the weekend to replace it.
I'll try to post the converter make/model later when I'm in front of it.
Thanks.
First thing is I would replace the battery regardless of any tests. So my suggestion is assuming you're going to replace the battery.
Pay attention to wire colors as you swap the batteries. Most trailers use white wires for ground. So swap the batteries and put the old battery on the ground.
1) Old Battery: If you can open the caps, is there still electrolyte covering the plates in each cell. Fill any low cells until close to the split rings when looking into the cell. You can use any water at this point as you're getting rid of the battery anyway. Were the plates in any cells exposed?
2) Old Battery: Put the caps back on and do a voltage test. There are six cells in a 12 volt battery. That's why there are six caps or holes to fill with water. Each cell produces approximately 2 volts. So if your voltage reading is 10 volts you have a dead cell. What was your voltage reading?
3) New Battery: Hook up the new battery to the trailer and take a voltage test. What was your voltage reading?
4) New Battery: Plug the trailer into shore power and take another voltage test. What was your voltage reading?
5) New Battery: If you can, let the trailer sit plugged into shore power for the day/night and then check voltage. What was your voltage after sitting on shore power overnight?
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup