Forum Discussion

waynefi's avatar
waynefi
Explorer
Jul 31, 2019

Replacing water tank

My fresh water tank has a leak, so I am trying to replace it, but I can't figure out how to get the old one out.

There are two side-to-side rails in the front and rear of the tank. The back one is screwed into the trailer frame. The front one looks more permanent. There are two lengthwise rails that have tabs that drop into slots in the sideways rails. So the obvious thing is to lift the lengthwise ones, then slide the back rail back. But I can't lift the tank, because it is up against the bottom of the trailer. I can't move the back rail with the tabs still in place. So how do I get the tank out?

Has anyone else seen this arrangement?
  • waynefi's avatar
    waynefi
    Explorer
    Aug 08, 2019
    The dealer gave me a $500 rough estimate (300 labor 200 for the tank.) I am trying the JB Water Weld approach. So far, so good. I have filled the tank and run the pump through a couple cycles, and it is holding. Now I just need to tow it over a few potholes.
  • BillyBob_Jim's avatar
    BillyBob_Jim
    Explorer
    Aug 02, 2019
    waynefi wrote:
    I think my next move is to talk to the dealer and see what they would do , and what it would cost.

    I'm not sure that I trust a patch, and in any case, if the plastic cracked because it is old and brittle, it may do it again. If the dealer wants an arm and a leg because they have to lift the floor, then I'll try a patch.


    No one is going to lift the floor. Those support trays are a standard Lippert part. The manufacturer orders them with the ear welded on to be able to attach the one long spreader with a bolt for future removal if needed. If the self driller is not accessible then the support needs to be cut with a grinder and replaced. Those Lippert supports are weak and have been known to fail on Rockwood and Flagstaff products, the Forest River forums are full of threads about tanks falling out, or almost falling out. Cut out the Lippert junk, get a new tank, and replace the supports with some real angle. Rockwood uses tanks from Alpha Systems. This is the tank Rockwood / Flagstaff has been using for the last 3 or 4 years.

    Here is another link.
  • waynefi's avatar
    waynefi
    Explorer
    Aug 02, 2019
    I think my next move is to talk to the dealer and see what they would do , and what it would cost.

    I'm not sure that I trust a patch, and in any case, if the plastic cracked because it is old and brittle, it may do it again. If the dealer wants an arm and a leg because they have to lift the floor, then I'll try a patch.
  • opnspaces's avatar
    opnspaces
    Navigator II
    Aug 01, 2019
    From your description it sounds like they did as you thought and installed the floor after the tank was in. But the fact that they used bolts on one side of the frame makes it seem like they were considering the tank having to be removed in the future.

    Are you sure there is a tab on the font of the rails? Can the rear and side rails slide back as a u-shaped unit leaving the front bar welded in?

    Can you maybe twist or roll the rear rail after you unbolt it so the tabs release?

    If you bend cut or break the tabs, will the rails still be able to hold the repaired tank up when finished?
  • Old_Islander's avatar
    Old_Islander
    Explorer
    Aug 01, 2019
    waynefi wrote:
    A plastic welder or some kind of glue is looking better all the time.

    I have never heard of a glue that will permanently stick to a polyethylene plastic resin tank. Maybe someone else has?

    Several years ago, I welded a crack on a polyethylene water tank using scraps from a similar tank and a big soldering iron. Used that camper for a couple of years afterward, before selling it (much of that, pounding on back country roads...). I had to remove the tank to do it; could not find a replacement the same size. :(

    If you have good access to the crack, it might me worth a try at welding, before removing the tank. Are you sure that whatever caused this crack, won't cause others down the road?
  • waynefi's avatar
    waynefi
    Explorer
    Aug 01, 2019
    wnjj wrote:



    With the bolts out, can the cross rail move sideways enough to drop one end, then then other or are the ends sitting on the top of the bottom flange up against the center web?


    The ends are up against the center web, and screwed into it. I tried removing the screws even though I can't see how it will work, and hit another problem. One of the screws is so obstructed that I can't get any tool I have onto it. The tank is in position to block any kind of socket wrench. The bottom of the I beam blocks an open end wrench. The space between the bottom of the I beam and a wire bundle is too small for a ratcheting box wrench.

    I think they put the tank in before they put the floor down.

    A plastic welder or some kind of glue is looking better all the time.
  • joelc's avatar
    joelc
    Explorer III
    Aug 01, 2019
    Good luck! I have the same problem, but I know it is near the top of the tank. So I just leave the valve open. Glad it is GREY water. Let us know how it works out. I know yours is Fresh and not Grey, but it would be interesting how you repair it.
  • wnjj's avatar
    wnjj
    Explorer II
    Jul 31, 2019
    waynefi wrote:
    newman fulltimer wrote:
    Take the bolts out the rails swing down tank drops out . save a lot of time and go to harbor freight get a plastic welder and weld the crack shut


    The rails are sitting on top of the I beam, so I don’t see how they can swing down. However, the plastic welder might do the trick.

    With the bolts out, can the cross rail move sideways enough to drop one end, then then other or are the ends sitting on the top of the bottom flange up against the center web?

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