I noticed that the washers on my equalizer hitch were no longer tight, there was lots of space between the washers, is this normal ? Are the washers and the rivet only tight when connected to the trailer and the bars engaged ? I also noticed that the set screw on the bottom of the hitch was only hand tight, again does this get tightened with bars connected and trailer hooked up, or without all of that hooked up ? I referred to the instructions i received with my hitch, and they dont specify. My hitch is a DSP. thanks in advance.Michael

That set screw on the back side of the hitch head will tend to loosen over time. Just tighten it up. You'll need to loosen the large nuts on the side so the hitch head can move and tighten up the washers when you tighten the set screw. If I recall, it's a 5/8" wrench.

The bolt on the bottom should be tight enough to get the washers tight. If not the hitch itself will have a lot of movement and play in the bolts that go through the hitch. Once you tighten the lower bolt all should be good.

Hey thanks for the replies guys! I leave first thing in the morning so i need to get this all done tonight asap. So just to clarifity i loosen both bolts that go through hitch, lift hitch head up to tighten the rivet and washers, tighten set screw, then tighten and torque the 2 bolts through the hitch ?

Yes, except you don't need to lift the hitch head up; tightening the bolt at the bottom will do that for you.Have fun on your trip!

michaelman501 wrote:Hey thanks for the replies guys! I leave first thing in the morning so i need to get this all done tonight asap. So just to clarifity i loosen both bolts that go through hitch, lift hitch head up to tighten the rivet and washers, tighten set screw, then tighten and torque the 2 bolts through the hitch ?Correct, but make sure you torque the BIG bolts to the proper torque.

Rivet and washers on Equalizer hitch | Good Sam Community

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Jun 25, 2015
That set screw on the back side of the hitch head will tend to loosen over time. Just tighten it up. You'll need to loosen the large nuts on the side so the hitch head can move and tighten up the washers when you tighten the set screw. If I recall, it's a 5/8" wrench.
GaryWT
Explorer
Jun 25, 2015
The bolt on the bottom should be tight enough to get the washers tight. If not the hitch itself will have a lot of movement and play in the bolts that go through the hitch. Once you tighten the lower bolt all should be good.
michaelman501
Explorer
Jun 25, 2015
Hey thanks for the replies guys! I leave first thing in the morning so i need to get this all done tonight asap. So just to clarifity i loosen both bolts that go through hitch, lift hitch head up to tighten the rivet and washers, tighten set screw, then tighten and torque the 2 bolts through the hitch ?
jasoncw
Explorer
Jun 25, 2015
Yes, except you don't need to lift the hitch head up; tightening the bolt at the bottom will do that for you.

Have fun on your trip!
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Jun 25, 2015
michaelman501 wrote:
Hey thanks for the replies guys! I leave first thing in the morning so i need to get this all done tonight asap. So just to clarifity i loosen both bolts that go through hitch, lift hitch head up to tighten the rivet and washers, tighten set screw, then tighten and torque the 2 bolts through the hitch ?

Correct, but make sure you torque the BIG bolts to the proper torque.
michaelman501
Explorer
Jun 25, 2015
Hey thanks all for the help, i will make sure i torque them to 250 ft/lbs as per the manufacture, it all makes sense now. The help is much appreciated.

Michael
tll
Explorer
Jun 25, 2015
The best way I have found to tighten the bolt so it never comes loose is to:
1. Hitch up to your vehicle and install bars, this puts pressure on the rivet and washers.
2. Loosen the two big bolts a bit to make sure the bars are fully putting tension on the rivet and washers.
3. Tighten the 5/8" headed bolt.
4. Tighten the two big bolts to specification.

When setting up a hitch, I can always get another 1/2 turn or so on the 5/8" headed bolt this way. Never comes loose this way either.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Jun 25, 2015
michaelman501 wrote:
... i will make sure i torque them to 250 ft/lbs as per the manufacture, it all makes sense now.

All versions of the Equal-i-zer built in the last several years use Grade 8 shank bolts that must be torqued to 320 ft/lbs ... only much earlier versions (one of which I purchased back in 2007) used Grade 5 bolts with a lower torque rating. Page 22 of the Equal-i-zer Owners Manual.
opnspaces
Navigator II
Jun 25, 2015
You can also loosen the side bolts and hook up the trailer. Then use the tongue jack to lift the tongue and take all play out of the rivets. At that point just reach under and tighten the bolt then torque the side bolts. sure the bolt alone will tighten them up, but I like to make sure they are absolutely tight.
michaelman501
Explorer
Jun 25, 2015
SoundGuy wrote:
michaelman501 wrote:
... i will make sure i torque them to 250 ft/lbs as per the manufacture, it all makes sense now.

All versions of the Equal-i-zer built in the last several years use Grade 8 shank bolts that must be torqued to 320 ft/lbs ... only much earlier versions (one of which I purchased back in 2007) used Grade 5 bolts with a lower torque rating. Page 22 of the Equal-i-zer Owners Manual.

I was using the word "equalizer" as a general term. My hitch is not equalizer brand, the brand is DSP. Sorry for the confusion.