Forum Discussion

FlyfisherBob's avatar
FlyfisherBob
Explorer
Apr 18, 2017

Searching for the Ultimate caulking.

History:
My camper is a 2010 Travellite 800sb which we ordered special from the factory. We drove down to the factory and picked it up. We were lucky to meet a new production manager, who was hired to solve many of their quality and manufacturing problems. He was really good and told us ours was one of first campers he oversaw. As an aerospace machinist and wood worker i am always suspect to consumers products. Our Camper has been trouble free, but too bad for Travellite owners latter, the new manager did not last long. (He was too good).

Caulking:
What ever they used was the Ultimate in caulking. Bright white, very firm, sticks and does not attract dust or road grime. We called the factory for more to touch-up a few places, They were clueless and sent some cheap silicone junk.

What caulking exists that is Bright white, slightly firm, sticks and does not attract dust or road grime?

Thanks for any suggestions.
Bob
Truck Campers
  • SidecarFlip's avatar
    SidecarFlip
    Explorer III
    Apr 30, 2017
    Most RV fasteners from the factory are designed for planned obsolence.... cheap.
  • TJMarc's avatar
    TJMarc
    Explorer
    Apr 30, 2017
    FlyfisherBob wrote:
    Profile Geocel Rv Update:
    Did a few tests on corner seams. This caulk appears to be the 2010 TravelLite OEM sealer.

    I am trying to duplicate the factory application. This caulk has a very short working time and the factory must of had two people doing the job for speed and quality. Will try a stiff foam brush with a light coating of mineral spirits to smooth and blend.

    Before screwing down the moulding with Stainless screws, I stick a 1 inch wide piece of roofing membrane over the joint. Wish I had the special RV tape with the fabric outer layer, but this is better than nothing.

    This 6 year old camper had been to the Artic on the Dempster Hwy. and most the other dirt Yukon and Alaskan Hwys. Any caulk that survive those conditions must be the Ultimate caulk.
    Hope I found it.

    Thanks for all the great advice.
    Bob


    I learned this sometime ago on the internet...where I no longer recall. When I caulk with geocel (proflex)I use a spray bottle with a strong dishsoap/water solution to shape/remove the excess.

    The steps I do are as follow:
    - With a scraper (plastic or metal depending how aggressive I feel) remove as much old caulk as practical
    - Use a light solvent/cleaner to clean the area
    - With a caulking gun I put down a decent size bead...length is determined by my available reach.
    - Use the spray bottle to wet down the area
    - With a gloved (nitrile) hand, I slide my wetted index finger along the joint to remove the excess

    The key is to place the caulk where you want it then use the mixture as a barrier to allow you to touch it without it sticking (or minimize as much as possible) to your glove or the surrounding surfaces.

    YMMV
  • silversand's avatar
    silversand
    Explorer
    Apr 26, 2017
    Dave Pete wrote:
    I should mention too, I have no real experience here but I've heard stainless and aluminum will react negatively together. I think the aluminum may corrode where it is in contact with stainless screws.


    ....this is a very, very good question. The aluminum stock used in the framing is not pure aluminum, but an alloy, with some built in corrosion resistance. Additionally, the way the screws are bedded, I expect that salt water will not be an issue with a land-based camper only exposed very occasionally to sea coast environments (keep the 3rd component or electrolyte {eg salt water} away from the mix). And finally, if you expect an electrolyte to come into potential contact with the dissimilar metals in the field (like in salt water boating applications), always use an anti-corrosive lubricant on the stainless-steel screw threads and into the hole drilled into the aluminum alloy stock before insertion. One good product of several is tef-gel.

    Cheers,
    S-
  • Dave_Pete's avatar
    Dave_Pete
    Explorer II
    Apr 23, 2017
    I appreciate this discussion. Soon I'll be caulking my resto-mod and I'm nervous. I know how important it is to get the application right to avoid lots if cleanup or smoothing effort and waste.

    I should mention too, I have no real experience here but I've heard stainless and aluminum will react negatively together. I think the aluminum may corrode where it is in contact with stainless screws. Those who are doing this might check into it.
  • FlyfisherBob's avatar
    FlyfisherBob
    Explorer
    Apr 23, 2017
    Profile Geocel Rv Update:
    Did a few tests on corner seams. This caulk appears to be the 2010 TravelLite OEM sealer.

    I am trying to duplicate the factory application. This caulk has a very short working time and the factory must of had two people doing the job for speed and quality. Will try a stiff foam brush with a light coating of mineral spirits to smooth and blend.

    Before screwing down the moulding with Stainless screws, I stick a 1 inch wide piece of roofing membrane over the joint. Wish I had the special RV tape with the fabric outer layer, but this is better than nothing.

    This 6 year old camper had been to the Artic on the Dempster Hwy. and most the other dirt Yukon and Alaskan Hwys. Any caulk that survive those conditions must be the Ultimate caulk.
    Hope I found it.

    Thanks for all the great advice.
    Bob
  • silversand's avatar
    silversand
    Explorer
    Apr 19, 2017
    What was amazing was how good of job was done at the factory. Very smooth, no over runs, and even on every place it was used...


    ....they probably use an air-powered caulk gun in the factory setting.
  • FlyfisherBob's avatar
    FlyfisherBob
    Explorer
    Apr 19, 2017
    silversand wrote:
    JimK NY wrote:
    Another trick is to tape both sides of the application area. After the caulk starts to harden, remove the tape for a clean line.


    ....this is what I do (using painter's masking tape). If I slowly and carefully peel the tape off and the Geocel isn't set enough, I get long stringy angel hair stretching off too. I then wait longer. Smoothing the caulk you apply along the seams immediately after application is crucial (some good pointers previously made).

    You could practice on a piece of 2x first (using masking tape and several smoothing techniques).


    Thanks for the tip. What was amazing was how good of job was done at the factory. Very smooth, no over runs, and even on every place it was used. I have not been able to duplicate it with any products so far. Almost like a damp cloth or sponge was used somehow to make it perfectly even and smooth.

    I also chink and caulk log homes. This type of work is not new to me. I know when things are done right and look good. Lots of tricks to do them well too.

    Thanks ,Bob
  • silversand's avatar
    silversand
    Explorer
    Apr 19, 2017
    JimK NY wrote:
    Another trick is to tape both sides of the application area. After the caulk starts to harden, remove the tape for a clean line.


    ....this is what I do (using painter's masking tape). If I slowly and carefully peel the tape off and the Geocel isn't set enough, I get long stringy angel hair stretching off too. I then wait longer. Smoothing the caulk you apply along the seams immediately after application is crucial (some good pointers previously made).

    You could practice on a piece of 2x first (using masking tape and several smoothing techniques).

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