Smartplug Converstion

I dunno...sounds like a solution in search of a problem.
In all my years of boating and RVing, I’ve never seen a reason to doubt the Marinco inlets and cordsets. May be there are problems with the China knockoffs, but I have always had the Marinco.

Going with the Smartplug, you may want to buy a spare. Loosing a specialty cord will be virtually impossible in a hurry up replacement.
I do not see anything refencing UL or CSA approval!

GrandpaKip wrote:
I dunno...sounds like a solution in search of a problem.
In all my years of boating and RVing, I’ve never seen a reason to doubt the Marinco inlets and cordsets. May be there are problems with the China knockoffs, but I have always had the Marinco.

Two objectives I had before searching for my solutions.

#1 Replace the nondetachable power cord with one that can be plugged and removed. Don't like bugs and critters crawling in my castle and the insulation in the cord storage hole is "economical" at best. You can feel the cold air drafting.

#2 Replace the RV plug (it was getting rather warm to the touch while plugged in) which means inefficient electric contacts. My TT was manufactured in 2000, so lets just assume both the cord and molded plug are probably "tired".

We usually dry camp (seldom visit RV parks with hookups) and since 1995 (when we started RVing) never been ripped off or had any of my gear walk off--save some firewood, but we had lots.

To me SAFETY and QUALITY are always number #1 and I don't think one can do any better than upgrade from a nondetachable cord to a Smartplug cord.

And, an unintended benefit, the cubby hole that once held the old power cord, can now be a secret stash spot, a safe of sorts to hold weapons, ammo, cash, etc. A slight modification in the paneling and poof, push open door.

enblethen wrote:
Going with the Smartplug, you may want to buy a spare. Loosing a specialty cord will be virtually impossible in a hurry up replacement.
I do not see anything refencing UL or CSA approval!

OK, you owe a buck for doing your research.

http://smartplug.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/UL-Approvals-Authorization-to-Mark.pdf

SPRey wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:
I dunno...sounds like a solution in search of a problem.
In all my years of boating and RVing, I’ve never seen a reason to doubt the Marinco inlets and cordsets. May be there are problems with the China knockoffs, but I have always had the Marinco.

Two objectives I had before searching for my solutions.

#1 Replace the nondetachable power cord with one that can be plugged and removed. Don't like bugs and critters crawling in my castle and the insulation in the cord storage hole is "economical" at best. You can feel the cold air drafting.

#2 Replace the RV plug (it was getting rather warm to the touch while plugged in) which means inefficient electric contacts. My TT was manufactured in 2000, so lets just assume both the cord and molded plug are probably "tired".

We usually dry camp (seldom visit RV parks with hookups) and since 1995 (when we started RVing) never been ripped off or had any of my gear walk off--save some firewood, but we had lots.

To me SAFETY and QUALITY are always number #1 and I don't think one can do any better than upgrade from a nondetachable cord to a Smartplug cord.

And, an unintended benefit, the cubby hole that once held the old power cord, can now be a secret stash spot, a safe of sorts to hold weapons, ammo, cash, etc. A slight modification in the paneling and poof, push open door.

You forgot about the supposed "better" electrical contact area that you claimed was the main reason..

Personally, what you have done is ADDED MANY more "points of failure" and INCREASED resistance (which equals heat) which the additional contacts.

All you did was spend a lot of money and spread out the heat across all of the additional contacts.

My cord "cubby" is FULLY closed off from the outside, what you could have done instead of all of the needless adaptation was to put a electrical workbox on the side of the "cubby", run the shore cord into that box via a weatherproof gland and made your connections inside the work box. Then proceed to double insulate the cubby box and seal it up well to prevent outside cold air from getting through the cubby box.

Instead, you now have a bunch of non standard electrical cords and connectors that can be lost and most difficult to locate in most stores..

No so "smart" to be non standard in a world of "standards".

I did not see any UL or CSA label on package!

GD I respect your opinion and fully disagree with your conclusion; your experiences, rig and objectives are yours--not mine.

There are many paths to the same destination my friend, not just one; but many, many paths.

Utilizing a standard plug designed before WWII is within your prerogative; I just like upgrading old technology with new when it makes sense, especially if I am replacing something.

enblethen wrote:
I did not see any UL or CSA label on package!

When I get my package I will send you a picture of the label (cordset comes tomorrow)

But to suggest Smartplug is not UL or CSA approved would be rather misleading.

I would rather have a 30-TT plug on the end unless you primarily use a generator with the twist-lock for power.
I loathe adapters I can avoid.

enblethen wrote:
Going with the Smartplug, you may want to buy a spare. Loosing a specialty cord will be virtually impossible in a hurry up replacement.

Been there, done that. Through a series of events, I left my cord in Orlando and drove to south Florida to the next campground. As we were driving to our site, friends texted us a picture of our cord on the ground.

That was a fairly warm night until we could get re-connected with our cord the next day!