SRW or DRW?

[welsteach]

Considering tc that weighs roughly 3800 dry. Would a 1 ton single rear axle be okay or do I need to look at double axle only. Please, no truck brand wars. Stick to axles. Thanks.

[AH64ID]

Redsky wrote:
Second option is to replace the factory rims and tires with 19.5 rims and 19.5 tires rated at 4400 lbs. per tire which will cost you about $3500. This will increase the payload up to over 5,000 lbs. but is expensive.

I just did this on my truck and didn't spend that much and I got 5 19.5's. I think I am about $3200 into 5 Vision Type 81's with Toyo M608z's in 245/70R19.5 LRG tires and counteract balance beads in all 5.

4500lbs a tire is nice, and even at 55-60 psi they are far more stable with a load that LRE's ever where with 80.. and they ride nicer.

[okan-star]

jefe 4x4 wrote:
Teach,
It looks like you have not purchased a TC as of yet. If that is indeed the case, consider the paradigm shift of buying a smaller camper and a bigger truck yet. Some of the most successful TC-er's on here have learned the hard way about reading the GVWR on the door pillar. Consider a TC with a wet weight of around 2000 pounds and putting it on a dual rear wheel, long bed,3500/350 truck of choice with the highest GCVWR.
The rr axle load rating on my Dana 80, 35 spline, FF, 1.53" axle is 13,500 pounds. How can that be with the GVWR on my rig of only 8800 pounds? Simple answer: tire rating. The formula mfgrs use is, "The lowest rated part in the chain IS the GVWR".
My rear tires are 33-15.50R16's on 12" wide rims with a 3750 pound rating and a 16" wide foot print. They are defacto super singles or Duplex tires meant to take the place of a set of duals. My fronts are 33-13.50R16's with a 9.5" wide footprint. Lots of tire/air space to float on. So what? If i deflate them down i can run the beach or sand dunes or down a sandy arroyo. Also, to keep the XTC concept going, I am constantly playing with pressure in tires to fit the road surface. On terrible washboard, I'll deflate down to 30 lbs. front and 28 lbs. rear. Goodbye washboard. The tires become a flexible part of the suspension. Modern tires can take it.
So, I have neither SRW skinnies, or DRW skinnies. It's not for everyone.
Some more to think about on my 2001.5 Dodge 2500 camper special:
1. GAWR: frnt axle: 5200 pounds
2. GAWR, rr axle, non-camper special: 6084 pounds.
4. GAWR, rr axle, camper special: 7500 pounds
5. combined GAWR: non-camper special: 11,284 pounds
6. combined GAWR: camper special: 12,784 pounds
My loaded wet weight rolling down the highway is about 10,200 pounds.
Any 350/3500 will have a higher rating than above.
Always, always, always, did i say always? get a much higher weight rated truck than your camper requires. So, this means a duallie. This is such a hard paradigm coming from a TT or 5th. There is just nothing sexy about a duallie, unless you like big hips. There is something to be said about under stressing by not getting near your GVWR.
Of course coming from either a TT or a 5-er, downsizing your living quarters can be a challenge. IF...you can do with less interior space, take advantage:
1. park in a regular parking place or along the curb.
2. stealth camp in a regular parking place or along the curb.
3. camp in ANY N.P. or N.F. campsite that has length restrictions.
4. No set up.
5. travel like crazy, pull off in any short pull out along hwy 1.
6. drive out from under the TC and have a multipurpose rock truck.
7. drive down a two track road and have less worries about getting stuck or trying to turn around.
The folks posting above know the TC business from many perspectives. Take advantage.
Happy hunting,
regards, as always, jefe

Good points, but a dana 80 in a 94/02 Dodge dually has a "Dana" axle rating of 10100 lbs not 13500 lbs , a SRW DANA 80 in a 94 to 02 SRW has a center carrier / tubes / shafts , of a dana 80 but Dana 70u hubs and bearings , a 70u has a axle rating of 7500 lbs , Ive never found a Dana rating for a hybrid Dana 80 like yours , Ive called Dana they refer to the Dodge #`s
Im sure its almost as much as a dually dana ,but smaller wheel bearing have to allow for some weight reduction.
You still have way more rear axle than you would ever need , a 8800 gvw is a farce , I have one too

[jefe_4x4]

Teach,
It looks like you have not purchased a TC as of yet. If that is indeed the case, consider the paradigm shift of buying a smaller camper and a bigger truck yet. Some of the most successful TC-er's on here have learned the hard way about reading the GVWR on the door pillar. Consider a TC with a wet weight of around 2000 pounds and putting it on a dual rear wheel, long bed,3500/350 truck of choice with the highest GCVWR.
The rr axle load rating on my Dana 80, 35 spline, FF, 1.53" axle is 13,500 pounds. How can that be with the GVWR on my rig of only 8800 pounds? Simple answer: tire rating. The formula mfgrs use is, "The lowest rated part in the chain IS the GVWR".
My rear tires are 33-15.50R16's on 12" wide rims with a 3750 pound rating and a 16" wide foot print. They are defacto super singles or Duplex tires meant to take the place of a set of duals. My fronts are 33-13.50R16's with a 9.5" wide footprint. Lots of tire/air space to float on. So what? If i deflate them down i can run the beach or sand dunes or down a sandy arroyo. Also, to keep the XTC concept going, I am constantly playing with pressure in tires to fit the road surface. On terrible washboard, I'll deflate down to 30 lbs. front and 28 lbs. rear. Goodbye washboard. The tires become a flexible part of the suspension. Modern tires can take it.
So, I have neither SRW skinnies, or DRW skinnies. It's not for everyone.
Some more to think about on my 2001.5 Dodge 2500 camper special:
1. GAWR: frnt axle: 5200 pounds
2. GAWR, rr axle, non-camper special: 6084 pounds.
4. GAWR, rr axle, camper special: 7500 pounds
5. combined GAWR: non-camper special: 11,284 pounds
6. combined GAWR: camper special: 12,784 pounds
My loaded wet weight rolling down the highway is about 10,200 pounds.
Any 350/3500 will have a higher rating than above.
Always, always, always, did i say always? get a much higher weight rated truck than your camper requires. So, this means a duallie. This is such a hard paradigm coming from a TT or 5th. There is just nothing sexy about a duallie, unless you like big hips. There is something to be said about under stressing by not getting near your GVWR.
Of course coming from either a TT or a 5-er, downsizing your living quarters can be a challenge. IF...you can do with less interior space, take advantage:
1. park in a regular parking place or along the curb.
2. stealth camp in a regular parking place or along the curb.
3. camp in ANY N.P. or N.F. campsite that has length restrictions.
4. No set up.
5. travel like crazy, pull off in any short pull out along hwy 1.
6. drive out from under the TC and have a multipurpose rock truck.
7. drive down a two track road and have less worries about getting stuck or trying to turn around.
The folks posting above know the TC business from many perspectives. Take advantage.
Happy hunting,
regards, as always, jefe

[Bedlam]

Redsky wrote:
Several ways to get around that limitation. One is to replace the stock 3195 tires with 3750 (Nitto or Toyo) rated tires to gain 1100 lbs. more load capacity at the rear axle. I did this and it cost me $500 out of pocket as I sold the factory tires on Craiglist. Second option is to replace the factory rims and tires with 19.5 rims and 19.5 tires rated at 4400 lbs. per tire which will cost you about $3500. This will increase the payload up to over 5,000 lbs. but is expensive.

A set four 19.5" rims and tires can be found for around $2000. There are drawbacks to using this setup: Heavier unsuspended weight, Poorer performance in loose sand and snow, Harsher unloaded ride.

[805gregg]

Remember you can add dually wheels to a SRW for about $1500, that is if you want to buy 6 tires instead of 4 and have all the problems of parking a dually when you don't have the camper on, have you ever seen a dually with the rear extended fenders banged up?

[kohldad]

I agree that even with todays higher SRW ratings, 3800 dry is in the DRW territory. Now if you were wanting to go where DRW aren't allowed like some beaches, you could make it work with after market upgrades, but I would suggest down grading the camper instead.

After a certain weight, the extra width of the rear wheels and more tires on the ground are really worth the DRW.

[gerrym51]

3800 dry means over 5000 loaded. If you don't already own a truck it's ludicrous not to get a dually.

[Redsky]

The limit on the rear axle is the amount of tire capacity at the rear. Stock tires provide 2 x 3195 or roughly 6400 lbs. minus the weight of the truck on the rear tires (as measured at a CAT scale). That usually leaves a 2800-3200 payload capacity.

Several ways to get around that limitation. One is to replace the stock 3195 tires with 3750 (Nitto or Toyo) rated tires to gain 1100 lbs. more load capacity at the rear axle. I did this and it cost me $500 out of pocket as I sold the factory tires on Craiglist. Second option is to replace the factory rims and tires with 19.5 rims and 19.5 tires rated at 4400 lbs. per tire which will cost you about $3500. This will increase the payload up to over 5,000 lbs. but is expensive.

Last option is to do what the manufacturers like to do which is to add two more 3195 tires (actually the tires are not going to be at maximum inflation with DRW so you gain about 80% more payload capacity). This is the easiest but the most restrictive.

With DRW the truck is 2 feet wider and no fun to drive when the camper is off the truck for personal use. There are fewer places where DRW trucks are allowed to go. Mud is more of a problem as is dealing with snow chains. You have to replace 6 tires instead of 4.

The axle and wheel bearing load ratings for heavy duty Ford trucks has been 8900 lbs. but may be greater with current trucks. For RAM and GM trucks it is 10,900 lbs.

Regardless of whether the truck is DRW or SRW there will likely be mods needed in terms of upgraded shocks and anti-sway bar (not needed with 2011 and later GM or 2014 RAM trucks.

[Bedlam]

The rear of most trucks weigh around 3000 lbs. Adding almost 4000 lbs dry weight puts you at the tire/rim limits of most stock SRW trucks. If you already own a reliable SRW, it may be worthwhile to upgrade the wheels to 19.5" and keep the the truck. If you need to buy a truck, you will be better off with a DRW which will give you more TC options and more stock weight capacity.

You will be over GVWR on any SRW with that load, but will be within capacity of the axles if you make wheel and suspension upgrades.

[okan-star]

welsteach wrote:
Considering tc that weighs roughly 3800 dry. Would a 1 ton single rear axle be okay or do I need to look at double axle only. Please, no truck brand wars. Stick to axles. Thanks.

Is that dry with standard option or after you select options and add the weight for them to ?
As a fellow TC`er that has a SRW truck and a 2587 dry wt camper with 500 lbs of options and 360 lbs of water and propane , I`m about 3900 lbs with gear ,on the truck and ready to travel,
If you add the difference in our dry weights you could be at 4500 - 4900 lbs ,I`d go dually if you can

[AH64ID]

GVWR is easily busted with about any camper/trailer especially if you have a older 2500 (pre 2010ish). The GVWR on my dad's 06 truck (same as my sig truck but 06 and 2500) is 9000lbs.. my truck weighs 8430lbs right now with standard stuff in the tool box, empty bed, full fuel and no driver. Based on the BS GVWR a 2500 would only have a useful payload of 570lbs and my 3500 is only 1470.... Something is wrong there, and probably why the current version of my truck has a 12,300 GVWR.

I do know that Dodge used the same frame on my generation for a QC LB 2500 Hemi as a 3500 DRW Diesel, which was rated at 12,300. So as long as I don't exceed tires or 12,300 I don't worry. With the 19.5's I am good for as much as I can feasibly throw at it. Most camping trips put me at 10,300-10,800 GVW and I have been as high at 11,200 without a trailer.

Point being is know the ratings, even if they aren't what is on your paper/door, for the parts being used. My frame and axles are given ratings on DRW's that are much higher than my SRW so with proper mods it's easy enough to make it all work SRW.

[KD4UPL]

My 3100 dry weight camper is well over 4,000 ready to camp. I used to carry it on a SRW 3500. I switched to a dually. Driving out my garage, down the drive way, and onto the highway was far enough to tell a huge imporvement in bounce and sway with the dually.
Could you make a SRW work with that load? Probably if it's a fairly new truck (2011 or newer) and you spent lots of money on 19.5" wheels and tires as well as other upgrades.
I'd get the dually. You'll still probably be over the GVWR of the truck. Most people with TCs are.

[AH64ID]

3800 dry will quickly grow to 4500+, not to include occupants.

You are in DRW territory or, if the roads you drive don't like DRW, 19.5" Single wheels.

Your RAW will probably be around 3000-3500 lbs depending on may factors before dropping a camper in. Nearly all of the camper weigh will hit the rear axle. 6K-7Klbs is about the limit on your typical 17" and 18" LRE tires. For 17" you are closer to 6400lbs, and some 18's will get you the 7K. There are some larger options (285/75R17) that can get you to about 8K on an axle if the wheels will support it, and you want that big of a tire.

My dad's Lance has a "dry" weight of 2600lbs, but on the scale loaded for camping it's closer to adding 4K lbs to the truck.

All in all you need more than a standard LRE tire will provide, either by going with 2 extra LRE's on a DRW or going with a LRG on a 19.5 (my 19.5's are 4500lbs a tire).

[hammer21661]

Get the dually.

[RoyB]

Are you referring to a truck with two axles or dually wheels

Two Axles


Dually Wheels


Roy ken