Supersprings and sway bars

[billtex]

How many run both?

Which did you add first?

Sway bars front, rear, or both?

Which is most effective or were both worthwhile?

Other comments?

Tx, Bill

Edit; interested only from those that have both installed.

[Marshfly]

Ranger Smith wrote:

Redsky wrote:

Some trucks like the Ford trucks in particular have a frame that flexs a good deal more with a load and adding a heavy duty anti-roll bar at the rear is necessary for hauling a heavy camper around. 2011 and later GM/Chevy trucks and 2013 and later Ram trucks should be fine without adding a new rear anti-roll bar.

Can you show me where you came up with this info. . . I'de like to read it.

Watch this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKMQjm7i2Jw

The Ram performs at least as good as the Chevy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_f3CAnH7WIM

[woodhog]

The last modification made to the signature, was a Helwig Bigwig rear sway bar, this mod has been very successful. It took about three hours to install. The truck should be unladen when installing (camper off).

In our case I went through about 5 pounds of rags also, due to thick undercoating everywhere in that area, not at all like the installs shown on Shadetree Mechanics etc. where everything is shiny and new.

I would advise anyone with handling problems to put one on....
The difference in handling is huge.

This truck had a front one from the factory, it will break the sway bar end links quite easily, go Dodge engineers !!!

[billtex]

kerry4951 wrote:
I use SS's and a rear Hellwig sway bar. Truck handles excellent. I never carried my heavy TC without either one so I cant say what it was like before using both. I dont feel I over reacted adding either one.

I am thinking of doing same. The SS's were added this spring (pun?) and are great, but I am now thinking of adding rear sway bar. (Truck has OE front)to minimize the roll when cornering. Is this a reasonable expectation?

The recent article in TCM regarding sway bars was interesting...

Boatycall...that must have been some fun trying to steer that rig around. I think we all fear situations like that. I always go slow...but you never know...why do people pick the biggest/heaviest rigs to cut off?

Tx, B

[wcjeep]

Boatycall wrote:
Never did Supersprings, but did do F & R swaybars and Torklift Stableloads.

My setup is top heavier than Dolly Parton.

My favorite comment of the day.


I also did rear swaybar before buying the camper. Front swaybar was factory. Now that Stableloads exist, I would highly recommend these before thinking about air bags. Bags may no longer be necessary.

[Boatycall]

Never did Supersprings, but did do F & R swaybars and Torklift Stableloads.

I have to say, each improved things pretty much equally. I felt a big difference after each step, and am now extremely happy with the control.

Just last weekend I had a massive emergency stop. Thanx to one of our infamous A$$H0&^% Seattle drivers cutting me off, I had to dynamite the brakes, locked up my trailer AND had the anti-lock kick in on the truck---FULLY LOADED.

My setup is top heavier than Dolly Parton. Everything stayed in control. Worth every penny. Of course I wanted to kill the SOB that cut me off, but with my tire iron and not my truck.... Grrr.

**Disclaimer - no I don't really want to kill anyone, it was a figure of speech. I like my truck too much.

[kerry4951]

I use SS's and a rear Hellwig sway bar. Truck handles excellent. I never carried my heavy TC without either one so I cant say what it was like before using both. I dont feel I over reacted adding either one.

[dave17352]

Redsky wrote:
I have a 2011 GM truck with the new fully boxed frame and so the rear anti-sway bar was not needed. In the front the stock anti-sway bar is 1.25 inches thick so as good as any aftermarket product.

I added Supersprings to help carry the load of a heavy camper on my 2500HD truck. Same approach as GM takes to increase load capacity to create a 3500HD truck on the assembly line. No sagging at the rear of the bed with the camper fully loaded for a trip.

I did improve the handling by upgrading the factory tires from ones rated at 3195@80 PSI to ones rated at 3750@80 PSI. Less sidewall flex with the camper load and this improvement was primarily aimed at increasing the load capacity by 1100 lbs. as the tires are the weakest link.

If the bed sags down at the rear with the camper in the bed then add Supersprings or air bags or additional leaf springs to the existing leaf pack.

For sway check your tires and verify they can handle the total load of truck and camper and gear by having it all weighed at a CAT scale for $10. If you need new tires then do this before adding an anti-sway bar.

Some trucks like the Ford trucks in particular have a frame that flexs a good deal more with a load and adding a heavy duty anti-roll bar at the rear is necessary for hauling a heavy camper around. 2011 and later GM/Chevy trucks and 2013 and later Ram trucks should be fine without adding a new rear anti-roll bar.

I am curious Redsky what tires you are running. I have 18 rims on my 2011 and I am also interested in upgrading the tires. My 3500 came with tires rated at 3525.

[billtex]

Ranger Smith wrote:

Redsky wrote:

Some trucks like the Ford trucks in particular have a frame that flexs a good deal more with a load and adding a heavy duty anti-roll bar at the rear is necessary for hauling a heavy camper around. 2011 and later GM/Chevy trucks and 2013 and later Ram trucks should be fine without adding a new rear anti-roll bar.

Can you show me where you came up with this info. . . I'de like to read it.

Don't feed the troll (redskywintersunelkhornsun)...

[Ranger_Smith]

Redsky wrote:

Some trucks like the Ford trucks in particular have a frame that flexs a good deal more with a load and adding a heavy duty anti-roll bar at the rear is necessary for hauling a heavy camper around. 2011 and later GM/Chevy trucks and 2013 and later Ram trucks should be fine without adding a new rear anti-roll bar.

Can you show me where you came up with this info. . . I'de like to read it.

[narcodog]

I have an 03 2500hd, it came with a front bar. I added the rear and SS. I would not change anything a perfect combo.

[Chopperbob]

Put SS on my 07 F150 and also my 2001 Ford
Class C Tioga E450. I'm a believer.
I also have Helwig bars on both. Bars first
SS second.

[Reelescape1]

'07 Dodge 2500 CTD, both and would do it again. Timbrens and Rancho 9000's also. First Lance was 4K scaled. New one is less but haven't scaled it.

[Redsky]

I have a 2011 GM truck with the new fully boxed frame and so the rear anti-sway bar was not needed. In the front the stock anti-sway bar is 1.25 inches thick so as good as any aftermarket product.

I added Supersprings to help carry the load of a heavy camper on my 2500HD truck. Same approach as GM takes to increase load capacity to create a 3500HD truck on the assembly line. No sagging at the rear of the bed with the camper fully loaded for a trip.

I did improve the handling by upgrading the factory tires from ones rated at 3195@80 PSI to ones rated at 3750@80 PSI. Less sidewall flex with the camper load and this improvement was primarily aimed at increasing the load capacity by 1100 lbs. as the tires are the weakest link.

If the bed sags down at the rear with the camper in the bed then add Supersprings or air bags or additional leaf springs to the existing leaf pack.

For sway check your tires and verify they can handle the total load of truck and camper and gear by having it all weighed at a CAT scale for $10. If you need new tires then do this before adding an anti-sway bar.

Some trucks like the Ford trucks in particular have a frame that flexs a good deal more with a load and adding a heavy duty anti-roll bar at the rear is necessary for hauling a heavy camper around. 2011 and later GM/Chevy trucks and 2013 and later Ram trucks should be fine without adding a new rear anti-roll bar.