My wife and owned a 2014 Jayco Whitehawk 28DSBH. When we ordered it, we ordered the upgraded AC unit and insulation package. We never had any issues with staying cool inside during the summer. A few months ago, we decided to sell our Whitehawk and take over my FIL's 2016 Jayco Jayflight 28 RLS because of not needing the bunks any longer. His camper is parked five spots down, at the same RV Park, where we have an annual lease on the lake. His camper (ours now) does not cool adequatley for us. This unit has the standard 13.5 BTU unit and no extra insulation package. What is the best way we can add supplemental AC to this camper? The air coming out of the unit is around 55 degrees. So I do not believe that the AC unit is faulty, but we are in full sun, and I suspect it has more to do with the insulation.

Upgrade to a 15k BTU A/C is one option.

We've thought about that, but we are looking for any less expensive options. We have two kids in college now, hence the need for not needing the bunks in the 28 DSBH any longer.

Upgrading to a 15K A/C Unit is less expensive then adding an additional A/C Unit especially with only 30A trailer

Seal all leaks and add insulation on the windows will help.

Some people mount a window ac in one of the windows if they are going to stay put fora few months. The tilt out escape window is the easiest since it simply swings up out of the way. A 6,000 btu unit with remote will be under $200 and more than accomplish what you need. In fact, you will be surprised to find that it cools almost as much as your rooftop unit in a quieter way.

Supplemental AC | Good Sam Community

deltabravo
Nomad
Jun 04, 2020
Upgrade to a 15k BTU A/C is one option.
mrp116
Explorer
Jun 04, 2020
We've thought about that, but we are looking for any less expensive options. We have two kids in college now, hence the need for not needing the bunks in the 28 DSBH any longer.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jun 04, 2020
Upgrading to a 15K A/C Unit is less expensive then adding an additional A/C Unit especially with only 30A trailer
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Jun 04, 2020
Seal all leaks and add insulation on the windows will help.
TomG2
Explorer
Jun 04, 2020
Some people mount a window ac in one of the windows if they are going to stay put fora few months. The tilt out escape window is the easiest since it simply swings up out of the way. A 6,000 btu unit with remote will be under $200 and more than accomplish what you need. In fact, you will be surprised to find that it cools almost as much as your rooftop unit in a quieter way.
troubledwaters
Explorer III
Jun 04, 2020
Put in a window unit.
wildtoad
Explorer II
Jun 04, 2020
You could look into a window unit but they are ugly sticking out the side of a trailer, get a portable one and vent out a window.

Put awnings on every window, or reflective insulation on all windows, insulate all exterior cabinet walls and ceiling.

Get you old trailer back and convert bunks to storage.
cavie
Explorer
Jun 04, 2020
Inside dark window tint like you car. MaxAir covers for you vents. Inside tint for skylights if you have one. Curtins for the windows. Add ceiling fan.
Sportsmen
Explorer II
Jun 04, 2020
We have a 2016 JayFlight 27BHS. Anytime the temps get much over 90 degrees, parked in the sun, it does not cool down like it should. It has the 15 k AC unit, tinted windows, blocked off skylight, etc, etc and is still hot inside. Since I already own a 6k window unit I fashioned a removable bracket and I put the unit in the side front bedroom window. Seal around the sides of the unit with foam board and the place is like an ice chest now. This has solved the problem of parking in direct sunlight as well as small grand kids that like to stand on the steps with the door open. And from the outside it looks o.k.,, BTW, I power the unit with an extension cord to the electrical pedestal. Is it a perfect arrangement ? No, but it works and cost me $150.00 out of pocket... Hope this helps
Sportsmen
Explorer II
Jun 04, 2020
double post, sorry