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Tavel Trailer springs and shackles

tewitt1949
Explorer II
Explorer II

I have a question about the springs and shackles on my travel trailer.  My trailer is a 32 foot and weighs about 8500.  Back when it was new they used brass./bronze for bushings.   All moving points on the springs have grease zerks  and are greased regularly/yearly.  I have greased them but they are a pain to get them to take grease sometimes.  I've replaced them with bronze bushings  which is the same that came from the factory.  Its  been a few years since I replaced them and I'm thinking it probably needs rebuilding again.  My question is instead of bronze/brass bushing, what are your thoughts on something different that bronze/brass.   A few years ago I bought some black stuff that appears to be nylon but I they had a different name for it.  It appeared to be a little harder than nylon. 

     New bushings have graphite buttons made right in the bronze that don't need greasing.  I have a friend that works at a rv trailer dealership and he says the new bronze/graphite bushings aren't what they are cracked up to be.   Ok, what's you thoughts on nylon type stuff for bushings.  I am a mechanic/machinist with all the equipment  (lathes)to make the new bushings..

Terry Witt
6 REPLIES 6

RAS43
Explorer III
Explorer III

I never had good luck with nylon/plastic bushings in any trailer I have owned. My present 5th wheel has  the original brass bushings and is 19 years old. I jack up each side by the frame to lube each zerk every spring. This way the zerks easily take grease. We normally travel 3-5000 miles a year. If we travel more then that I will lube it a second time. 

amxpress
Explorer
Explorer

 I guess I'm old school. If you have bronze/brass bushings that can be lubricated, I would stay with them. I've had 2 trailers with the white nylon/plastic bushings that wore out and were replaced with the bronze bushings with the zerk fitting bolt. Messy, but they last a long time and do the job. 

 

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QCMan
Nomad III
Nomad III

Just under 10 thousand on the set and still tight. Replaced the original plastic bushings that were no longer complete circles after about 2600 miles. Also replaced the solid equalizer with one that has rubber in it to take the shock out of bumps. I grease all the fittings about every three thousand.


2020 Keystone Cougar 22RBS, Ram 1500, two Jacks and plenty of time to roam!
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. A.E.
Good Sam Life Member

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II

How many miles do you put on these bushings? I think most of us are still running on the plastic bushings without any real problems. Since you already once replaced the bronze bushings I wouldn't give a second thought.

.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

QCMan
Nomad III
Nomad III

If it is certain ones that always give you a hard time those bolts may have been installed with the internal grease holes slightly off horizontal. The fix is to reorient the bolts which can also be a pain job.


2020 Keystone Cougar 22RBS, Ram 1500, two Jacks and plenty of time to roam!
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. A.E.
Good Sam Life Member

Krusty
Nomad II
Nomad II

Unless you are putting a lot of miles on the trailer, most of that stuff should last almost a life time. I think the brass or bonze greaseable bushings would be the best way to go. Jack up a wheel at a time and give everything a good shake and check for any excessive wear every year or so. Make sure to grease it regularly and if any bushings dont take grease, try again with the weight off that joint or clean or replace the grease fitting

Krusty
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