cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

The Sewer Smell That Wasn't (Propane Leak)

marcsbigfoot20b
Explorer
Explorer
So for the last few months after my leaf spring broke and caused a really rough ride for the TT on a trip, I was noticing a sewer like smell that I swore was from the black tank / toilet or grey tank.

Poured some bleach/dishsoap coctails in and the trailer still smelled.

Thats when I figured out it only happened when I was going to go somewhere and turned on the fridge......because I turned on the propane.

Went camping last week and it was really bad. Could smell it coming from the back of the oven. One year old propane detector didnt make a peep.

Got home and ordered an EUI CD100 leak detector sniffer leak detector and used it 2 days ago. Took me 1 hour to finally pinpoint because this thing was so sensitive. Had to remove the oven and found the copper line under the heater had a hold down screw sticking out 1 mm on top of it and it pecked a hole in it.
It was in a hard spot to even find without a mirror and flashlight. Cut the hole part out and joined with Swage lok union.

So if you have a sewer smell, it might be propane!!




11 REPLIES 11

marcsbigfoot20b
Explorer
Explorer
nomad297 wrote:
You really do need to change that fitting. It may not be leaking right now, but chances are high that it will begin to leak sooner or later. I've been a Master plumber and gas fitter for decades and I have seen and repaired my fair share of leaking compression fittings -- and these are in structures that don't move and shake like your RV does. It takes very little movement to cause a compression fitting to leak and once they start leaking they only get worse.

You should replace the compression coupling with either a flare coupling or a regular CxC coupling that is silver soldered (brazed). Obviously, the flare coupling will be the easiest option for you because you won't have to purge the propane from the system, and brazing copper takes some skill that you may or may not have. However, brazing is the superior method.

Please don't take a chance of turning your RV into a bomb that can kill you and anybody else inside. You are also risking the well being of those around you with flying debris and fire.

Bruce


Ill hit Home Depot and find a flare coupler.

nomad297
Explorer
Explorer
You really do need to change that fitting. It may not be leaking right now, but chances are high that it will begin to leak sooner or later. I've been a Master plumber and gas fitter for decades and I have seen and repaired my fair share of leaking compression fittings -- and these are in structures that don't move and shake like your RV does. It takes very little movement to cause a compression fitting to leak and once they start leaking they only get worse.

You should replace the compression coupling with either a flare coupling or a regular CxC coupling that is silver soldered (brazed). Obviously, the flare coupling will be the easiest option for you because you won't have to purge the propane from the system, and brazing copper takes some skill that you may or may not have. However, brazing is the superior method.

Please don't take a chance of turning your RV into a bomb that can kill you and anybody else inside. You are also risking the well being of those around you with flying debris and fire.

Bruce
2010 Skyline Nomad 297 Bunk House, 33-1/4 feet long
2015 Silverado 3500HD LTZ 4x4, 6.0 liter long bed with 4.10 rear, 3885# payload
Reese Straight-Line 1200# WD with built-in sway control
DirecTV -- SWM Slimline dish on tripod, DVR and two H25 receivers

whiteeye42
Explorer
Explorer
yes flared fittings only on gas line weather it is propane or natural gas and you should never use stainless on copper it will corrode the copper and cause a bigger leak
Me,Wife two boys and two dogs
2008 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 DRW 6.7 cummins
2008 Jayco Eagle 341 RLQS 37' with B&W turnover ball & companion hitch
using rotochoks
add state map

Hitch_Pin
Explorer
Explorer
You should only use flare fittings on any copper gas line like that. I would not trust that the way it is.
Hitch Pin
2013 Jay Feather Ultra Lite 221
2012 Silverado LT 1500 with a 5.3

AirForceAngler
Explorer
Explorer
Time for a new propane detector!
2013 Toyota Tundra DoubleCab 4x4 iForce 5.7
2014 Grey Wolf by Forest River 26BH TT

nomad297
Explorer
Explorer
I would never trust a compression fitting on soft copper with propane. You're really playing with fire there.

Bruce
2010 Skyline Nomad 297 Bunk House, 33-1/4 feet long
2015 Silverado 3500HD LTZ 4x4, 6.0 liter long bed with 4.10 rear, 3885# payload
Reese Straight-Line 1200# WD with built-in sway control
DirecTV -- SWM Slimline dish on tripod, DVR and two H25 receivers

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I'd suggest to replace the repaired copper tube with a new piece of pipe and two new flare fittings.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

marcsbigfoot20b
Explorer
Explorer
nomad297 wrote:
Is that a compression fitting you used?

Bruce


Yes.
Swagelok SS compression fitting. I know copper is kinda soft but I work in the semiconductor indusrty (actually had that fitting in my tool box) and we use them for all kinds of stuff, just dont overtighten.
I checked for leaks and after one day of propane on, no smell.

nomad297
Explorer
Explorer
Is that a compression fitting you used?

Bruce
2010 Skyline Nomad 297 Bunk House, 33-1/4 feet long
2015 Silverado 3500HD LTZ 4x4, 6.0 liter long bed with 4.10 rear, 3885# payload
Reese Straight-Line 1200# WD with built-in sway control
DirecTV -- SWM Slimline dish on tripod, DVR and two H25 receivers

naturist
Nomad
Nomad
Wow, that is scary. Fine place for a leak, the explosion from the fridge, range, or oven could have killed anybody not poisoned by the gas.

I believe there is one more repair you need to make my friend: get a new propane detector!

I am glad you found that leak and got it repaired. And without anybody getting hurt.

Fast0ne
Explorer
Explorer
Well that's scary. Good thing you found it.
2013 Holiday Rambler 187QB
2006 Chevy Colorado Xtream Crew Cab I5 240hp 250ft torque