tire load inflation chart

Dayle1 wrote:

wintersun wrote:
The tire manufacturer's inflation chart is not going to provide accurate information for a specific vehicle. Use the tire pressures shown on the door jamb of the vehicle as those values are calculated by the factory.

If after 3,000 miles you see more wear in the center or at the sides of the tire, then make an adjustment. Otherwise leave them at the vehicle manufacturer's specs.

When the factory calculated the tire pressure for a specific vehicle, how did they know how much weight each of us would add to the truck?? They didn't. Instead, tire pressure listed on the door jamb is what is needed to meet the manufacturer's stated GAWR, just like it states. But when there is almost 4000 lbs difference between empty and max load, I don't use the same PSI for both because it can't be the right pressure for both conditions. That is the value of a load inflation chart.

Also, when you change from P rated to LT rated tires, the doorjamb values become useless.

When I switched to LTEs, the dealer only pumped them up to the door jamb value (35psi) and insisted that was correct. Michelin said that using 48psi on the new LTEs would give the same weight rating as the old Ps. So I now run 50-60psi, depending.

Phone the manufacturer. I was doing the same for my Michelins. I called Michelin and they gave me the chart over the phone.
BF Goodrich
1-888-871-6666
8 a.m. to 8 p.m. (M-F)
8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (Sat.)
(Eastern Time)

Some interesting reading under this recent post in Beginning RVing

tire pressure

Dayle1 wrote:

wintersun wrote:
The tire manufacturer's inflation chart is not going to provide accurate information for a specific vehicle. Use the tire pressures shown on the door jamb of the vehicle as those values are calculated by the factory.

If after 3,000 miles you see more wear in the center or at the sides of the tire, then make an adjustment. Otherwise leave them at the vehicle manufacturer's specs.

When the factory calculated the tire pressure for a specific vehicle, how did they know how much weight each of us would add to the truck?? They didn't. Instead, tire pressure listed on the door jamb is what is needed to meet the manufacturer's stated GAWR, just like it states. But when there is almost 4000 lbs difference between empty and max load, I don't use the same PSI for both because it can't be the right pressure for both conditions. That is the value of a load inflation chart.

You have a brain and are using it!

Those door label numbers are a CYA for the auto MFG!

I easily get over 100K on my tires.

wandering1 wrote:
Real simple, run the PSI you see on the sidewall. That is what the tire is designed for. Running the tires over or under inflated will cause the tire to overheat which will cause damage.

Oh really? Load range E tires all say 80psi. A 2500 unloaded truck running 80psi all around will result in premature tire wear and reduced stopping ability.

They don't publish load/inflation charts for no reason!

When the factory calculated the tire pressure for a specific vehicle, how did they know how much weight each of us would add to the truck?? They didn't. Instead, tire pressure listed on the door jamb is what is needed to meet the manufacturer's stated GAWR, just like it states. But when there is almost 4000 lbs difference between empty and max load, I don't use the same PSI for both because it can't be the right pressure for both conditions. That is the value of a load inflation chart.

Bingo! When I run empty during the off season, fronts are 62, rears at 54. Tires wear evenly, no heat build up and it's not like you're riding a donkey from the left coast. :B

wintersun wrote:
The tire manufacturer's inflation chart is not going to provide accurate information for a specific vehicle. Use the tire pressures shown on the door jamb of the vehicle as those values are calculated by the factory.

If after 3,000 miles you see more wear in the center or at the sides of the tire, then make an adjustment. Otherwise leave them at the vehicle manufacturer's specs.

When the factory calculated the tire pressure for a specific vehicle, how did they know how much weight each of us would add to the truck?? They didn't. Instead, tire pressure listed on the door jamb is what is needed to meet the manufacturer's stated GAWR, just like it states. But when there is almost 4000 lbs difference between empty and max load, I don't use the same PSI for both because it can't be the right pressure for both conditions. That is the value of a load inflation chart.

I though about using the number on the door sticker when running empty but what I didn't understand is 80 psi in the rear and 65 psi in the front when there is an engine in the front and nothing to speak of in the rear. Seems kind of backward to me, but I'm no tire tech :).

The tire manufacturer's inflation chart is not going to provide accurate information for a specific vehicle. Use the tire pressures shown on the door jamb of the vehicle as those values are calculated by the factory.

If after 3,000 miles you see more wear in the center or at the sides of the tire, then make an adjustment. Otherwise leave them at the vehicle manufacturer's specs.

Yes pressure/load charts can vary between the tire manufactures a small bit but from what I've seen its not enough to worry about or at least I didn't worry. :B

Helmsey wrote:

brulaz wrote:
Do the load inflation tables for the same size LT tire vary by manufacturer?

Somewhere I got the idea that they were standardized by some tire industry group.

No, they should not vary at all. All load range C tires will be the same, as well as D, and E tires.

Well then Toyo has published the TRA Load Inflation tables, and the O.P.'s size can be found toward the end of this guide:
http://www.toyotires.ca/sites/default/files/loadinflationtable.pdf