tires on 2500HD
Time to put a new set of tires on my 2007 GMC 2500HD. When I bought the used truck it came with 10 ply load range Ds on it. (LT 245 75 R16) I have to run these tires at 50 PSI or else when I am drivin...
Forum Discussion
This discussion, as any tire/suspension re-engineering discussion involves the
laws of physics and until one can speak to how these re-engineering changes affect
"Slip angle, bend back, roll over, roll resistance, response times, etc", then
stick with OEM and if must go to different spec tires, stick to the OEM (vehicle,
tire, and wheel) specifications and recommendations
Stuff like 'slip angle' of a tire can be changed just by the PSI it is aired to.
Or the rim width it mounted on. Or the dampening system (mainly shocks) involved
plus a host of other attributes that all play together in concert between the vehicle and pavement
Folks like Marty are a real time test mules for any vehicle and associated components/systems
Betch he can't remember how many sets of tires he's owned and burned through...except
for the ones which failed miserably for him, as someone else might love that
particular tire for 'them'. I no longer like Michelin LT tires, as
they cracked on me...many sets while many love them.
Also, betch most won't notice a change in slip angle from one set of tires to another
set on their vehicles
Or the responsiveness from one set to another
Not a knock on folks, but that is the generality of re-engineering to non-techies
who take things in absolute terms
Like tire pressure....50 PSI for instance
out of context if the tire class isn't mentioned, the rim width in reference to
the recommended for 'that' thire, the loading, the dampening rate of the shocks,
the terrain, and the drivers style of driving
'P' class tires are designed to have lots of sidewall bend back for 'ride quality'
'LT' class tires are designed to have less sidewall bend back for 'truck' attributes
Mainly load carrying
My 1980 C10 Silverado's LT class tires are 6 ply (load range C) and have a
max PSI specification of 35 PSI. If I ran my LT265/75R16E's on 10" wide rims at 35PSI
they might come off the bead and over heat hat highway speeds
50 PSI in them would have them over inflated and over stressed to possibly break
ply or tread cords when it impacts road object.
50 PSI in my LT265/75R16E's would be a bit low for my driving style, but would
be fine for the load when empty. But not for my driving style. Harsh is kind
as am still a boy racer at heart in my 60's.
I'll never recommend going below 45 PSI for any LT class tire...unless
they are off roading and crawling below 20mph
Scary for me to see advice out of context and OPs accepting advice out of context
Like I run 80 PSI in all four on my Suburban, but then it would be too harsh
for most folks out there. How many have 10" wide rims, bead to bead ? Not
many and those who do, either had the salesperson sell them or they knew what
they were getting into when they bought them...
Why the advice to use load charts sound. As tires are mainly air bladders holding
up weight with additional duties: Steering/cornering/stopping/accelerating
and of course shock absorbers. Plus knowing the weight on each axle...how
else would anyone know how to find the right PSI on any OEM's inflation charts?
laws of physics and until one can speak to how these re-engineering changes affect
"Slip angle, bend back, roll over, roll resistance, response times, etc", then
stick with OEM and if must go to different spec tires, stick to the OEM (vehicle,
tire, and wheel) specifications and recommendations
Stuff like 'slip angle' of a tire can be changed just by the PSI it is aired to.
Or the rim width it mounted on. Or the dampening system (mainly shocks) involved
plus a host of other attributes that all play together in concert between the vehicle and pavement
Folks like Marty are a real time test mules for any vehicle and associated components/systems
Betch he can't remember how many sets of tires he's owned and burned through...except
for the ones which failed miserably for him, as someone else might love that
particular tire for 'them'. I no longer like Michelin LT tires, as
they cracked on me...many sets while many love them.
Also, betch most won't notice a change in slip angle from one set of tires to another
set on their vehicles
Or the responsiveness from one set to another
Not a knock on folks, but that is the generality of re-engineering to non-techies
who take things in absolute terms
Like tire pressure....50 PSI for instance
out of context if the tire class isn't mentioned, the rim width in reference to
the recommended for 'that' thire, the loading, the dampening rate of the shocks,
the terrain, and the drivers style of driving
'P' class tires are designed to have lots of sidewall bend back for 'ride quality'
'LT' class tires are designed to have less sidewall bend back for 'truck' attributes
Mainly load carrying
My 1980 C10 Silverado's LT class tires are 6 ply (load range C) and have a
max PSI specification of 35 PSI. If I ran my LT265/75R16E's on 10" wide rims at 35PSI
they might come off the bead and over heat hat highway speeds
50 PSI in them would have them over inflated and over stressed to possibly break
ply or tread cords when it impacts road object.
50 PSI in my LT265/75R16E's would be a bit low for my driving style, but would
be fine for the load when empty. But not for my driving style. Harsh is kind
as am still a boy racer at heart in my 60's.
I'll never recommend going below 45 PSI for any LT class tire...unless
they are off roading and crawling below 20mph
Scary for me to see advice out of context and OPs accepting advice out of context
Like I run 80 PSI in all four on my Suburban, but then it would be too harsh
for most folks out there. How many have 10" wide rims, bead to bead ? Not
many and those who do, either had the salesperson sell them or they knew what
they were getting into when they bought them...
Why the advice to use load charts sound. As tires are mainly air bladders holding
up weight with additional duties: Steering/cornering/stopping/accelerating
and of course shock absorbers. Plus knowing the weight on each axle...how
else would anyone know how to find the right PSI on any OEM's inflation charts?
