Forum Discussion

silverbullet555's avatar
Jun 15, 2021

Torklift camper tie down width question

Well, most of the upgrades are done and we will be on our first trip soon with the old camper and new torklift mounts.

Curious, the mounts have two holes as options for the width of the tie downs.

Is there a performance or safety difference depending on which width you select. Obviously, if there is interference with the camper or the truck you are limited.

But, if that is not an issue, does having them inboard provide a better result or is there no cost/benefit between the two locations?
  • Triangulate as much as possible to prevent camper movement. Straight up and down allows the camper to move around as nothing is preventing side/side and front/back movement other than down force.
  • MORSNOW wrote:
    Triangulate as much as possible to prevent camper movement. Straight up and down allows the camper to move around as nothing is preventing side/side and front/back movement other than down force.


    Good point. Makes total sense.
  • I called Torklift about that very issue a couple of years ago. Tech was great. Said to get the Fastguns as parallel to the ground as possible. ie - Pointy end at the front to the front & pointy end at the rear to the rear. Make the connections as wide as possible.
  • As far as width (i.e. telescoping of the tubes within each other), I set my up such that it did not touch the tuck body when attaching the Fastguns.

    IIRC, the rear ones were on the "narrow" setting and the front TL's were on the wider holes.

    on edit:
    I would think that the narrowest setting is best setup if you can fit it w/o hitting the bed sides.
  • Even the same truck model can have different configuration.
    My truck is Supercab, with door opening to the rear. I could not put tie downs as far to the front I wanted becouse they would interfere with open door.
    Than even with all the adjustment I could not avoid the tie covering my fuel door.
    Good thing removing fastgun is 3 second job.
  • Slymer wrote:
    I called Torklift about that very issue a couple of years ago. Tech was great. Said to get the Fastguns as parallel to the ground as possible. ie - Pointy end at the front to the front & pointy end at the rear to the rear. Make the connections as wide as possible.


    I needed more clearance between my Fastguns and the RAM fenders. I talked to Torklift and they recommended drilling another hole in the truck tiedown extensions. They said to drill the hole about an inch farther "inboard" than the other 2 holes. Same size...1/4" inch so the pins will fit. That will put the Fastgun hook up points farther out and more allow more clearance with the fenders.
    Torklift also explained the the truck extensions do not secure the campers by their horizontal/vertical fit between the extension and the frame mount. They are held by the tension of the corners of the extension within the frame mount. That is why the triangulation is required.
  • Interesting additional comments.

    I was able to put mine on the narrower setting and they clear everything. Can even fuel the truck without taking the front one off which is a common thing that needs to be done. Speaks to the variation in mounting points as well.

    Both sets pull the camper forward as there is no other option with my camper tie down points. I could make the rears angle further forward by putting them on the front hole instead of the back hole.
  • I run mine narrow, don't want them sticking out where they're more likely to snag something. I always figured the inner holes were for those needing extra clearance for full length running boards or dually fenders. Homemade load guides ensure any side to side movement is minimized.
  • Also with the Fastguns it is easy to adjust them so there is only 3/8" difference in the threaded section that is exposed when fully tightened. It is very easy to apply too much force to the camper mounts and do serious damage to the camper that will be very expensive to repair.
  • The answer is No.

    The inserts are generic as opposed to the truck mounts which are custom made for each specific truck, usually made-to-order on the spot. The two holes are generic as well. Use what floats your boat.

    Triangulation is correct, but side to side not a big deal. Front to back is, but has nothing to do with width here.
    You can angle the chains or have them vertical as far as the side to side support goes, it wont matter much. Is your TC snugly fitted in there?

    Do have the chains angled front to back (standing at the side the chains will be at an angle, but fron the front view they can be vertical). This keeps the TC from creeping forward or backwards.
    So, the front chains might go down and back and the rear chains go down and forward to oppose each other and help lock the TC still.