Tow Guides can be downloaded

and you want to be armed with those towing guides when you walk on the dealer lot. Because the salesman does not have a clue what any of the tow ratings are on any of the trucks on the lot.

Terryallan wrote:
and you want to be armed with those towing guides when you walk on the dealer lot. Because the salesman does not have a clue what any of the tow ratings are on any of the trucks on the lot.

This is good advice.

Where do you find the "tow rating" for a particular VIN sitting on the lot anyways?

There are a lot of misleading claims on the "Maximum tow rating". Things to be careful of. Like buying a 3/4 ton truck with a 15,000 pound tow rating, only to bring it home and find out that the 14,000 pound trailer that you planned on towing has a 3,000 pound hitch rating, that will totally exceed the truck's limited GVWR! due to the high curb weight of the diesel vehicle with every option installed on it.

Manufactures do not limit their fifth wheel tow ratings to what the truck can reasonably be expected to carry. So a truck with a 2,000 pound cargo rating should be limited (and thus rated) to towing a 10,000 pound fifth wheel, regardless of it's 23,000 pound combined vehicle weight limit. In this case, a 3/4 ton truck should have a higher limit for travel trailers (with much less hitch weight) than for fifth wheels with very high pin weight expected on them.

I also like the new tow rating system, where a truck is connected to the size trailer they 'claim' it can tow, then up a famous 7% steep mountain pass from Bullhead City AZ to the top of the hill. Check to make sure it will not overheat, and can maintain a minimum speed up that 7% grade!

Afterall what good is a 35,000 pound tow rating when you only put a 200 HP inline 6 into the truck, then 13 speeds, and it can only make 15 MPH up a 5% grade! Back in the 60's that is what over the road trucks had in them, and they where slow! Especially compared to todays 500+ HP diesel trucks.

We keep getting better equipment because the buying public is well informed, and knows to look for better equipment, that is safer, and rated to do the job they intend to do with it.

The public is aware that they need to have a certain cargo rating, and higher GVWR for towing because of information distributed in places like Rv.Net! And who would care about CCC ratings if not discussed in length on places like RV.Net?

Until 2004, Ford would sell a 4 WD crewcab diesel F-250 with a limited 965 pound cargo rating! That is barely enough for the passengers, let alone the 15,000 pound trailer it is rated to tow! The curb weight was a bit over 7,700 pounds while it had a limited GVWR of around 8,800 pounds. In 2005, Ford upped the GVWR to make their 3/4 ton trucks carry about 3,000 pounds while SRW F-350 can carry 4,000, the DRW F-350 5,700 or so. ..

Much better cargo ratings demanded by a well informed public who is buying what is going to keep their family safe!

Fred.

06Fargo wrote:

Terryallan wrote:
and you want to be armed with those towing guides when you walk on the dealer lot. Because the salesman does not have a clue what any of the tow ratings are on any of the trucks on the lot.

This is good advice.

Where do you find the "tow rating" for a particular VIN sitting on the lot anyways?

The Ford F150 towing guide (Which I have one of) Gives you the tow capacity for each version of the truck. In the guide you will find the GVWR, axle ratio, engine, and GCVWR. It will be broken up by body style. The list will have the engine in the far left column, with the axle ratios in the next column, and the GVWR in the next column, with the various body styles, 4x4, or 4x2, and wheelbases for each listed by column across the page. The list continues down from smallest engine to the largest engine.

All you have to do is match that to the information on the window sticker. The sticker has the GVWR, wheelbase, engine, and axle ratio listed on it.

Should you be buying used. You will need to know the axle codes. The axles code is on the door jamb sticker with the GVWR

Rear Axle Ratio Codes
If you do not know the axle ratio of your vehicle, check its Truck
Safety Compliance Certification Label (located on the left front
door lock facing or the door latch post pillar). Below the bar code,
you will see the word AXLE and a two-digit code. Use this chart to
find the axle ratio that corresponds to that code
..........Axle......Non-Limited...Limited.............Electronic
Vehicle...Ratio........Slip........Slip................Locking
F-150.....3.15........15..........Not Available......... L5
..........3.31........27..........Not Available..........L3
..........3.55........19..........H9.....................L9
..........3.73........26..........B6.....................L6
..........4.10... Not Available...Not Available..........L4

That is more good info Terryallan.

Seems um, simple enough :)

100 trucks on the lot, this shouldn't take too long :)

What we need in pickup trucks is more choices and selection... :)

What I can't quite figure out, being a bit clueless myself, is how can GVWR's possibly be in 20 and 50lbs increments...? (look at F150...)

Maybe a bit less computer modeling and a bit more real world testing?

I just left a dealer. First thing I look at after the motor, is the Rear Gear. Higher than a 3.55, no need to look any farther.

Actually, in truth. It would be best just to go into the office, and tell them what you want, then let them find it for you. Because the chance you will find a F150 on a dealer lot rated to tow 11,000lbs, Is slim to none.

The only F150s that will tow 11,000 are the EcoBoost, with either a 3.73, or a 4.10, and 6.2L V8, with a 3.73 rear, and very few if any dealers order that combination. Plus they of course have to have the higher GVWR. so you may as well get them to find you one with out wasting your time on the lot.