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Towing

DoneItAll
Explorer
Explorer
My F450 is equipped with a stock class V hitch. Am I correct in that I would only need a TorkLift SuperTruss Extension Bar to be able to tow?

Thanks,

John
John & Harriet on the beautiful Eastern Shore of Maryland
2008 F450 4X4 Crew Cab
2017 Lance 2375 Travel Trailer
46 REPLIES 46

joe_b_
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mike, my Jeep is also a 2004, but as a two door unlimited model, that year they only made it with an automatic transmission. Not my favorite tranny for mountain trails, but since I use it as a daily driver, here in south Florida it works OK for me. The red Jeep was a manual but had the 4 banger engine, which was fine here in the SE, but when I got it in the Rocky Mtns above 9,000 feet it just ran out of power. It was easier to tow as it was several hundred pounds lighter in weight. Jeeps are sure easy to tow, 4 down.

I considered changing out the engine in the red Jeep and might should have as I had it fixed up the way I wanted it, except for the power. The yellow one is the 14th Jeep I have owned over the years.
just about to run out of road in the Colorado mountains. Probably pushing the season a bit.


I have talked to folks towing the smaller 4 Xs, such as the Trackers, and the others and they sure have a following of loyal tow folks. They are really hard to find around this part of the country.
joe b.
Stuart Florida
Formerly of Colorado and Alaska
2016 Fleetwood Flair 31 B Class A w/bunks
www.picturetrail.com/jbpacooper
Alaska-Colorado and other Trips posted
"Without challenge, adventure is impossible".

Mello_Mike
Explorer
Explorer
joe b. wrote:
When I first set up our previous Dodge truck I bought a 48 inch extension, which turned out to be much longer than I really needed. With our Lance 845, the overhang in the back is not a great deal. But I failed to figure in that the Jeep tow bar attachment points, are 16 inches in front of the grill. Then I added a Ready Brake auxiliary system to the Jeeps and that added an additional 20 inches. So the two of those factors added 36 inches to my setup. Then the Falcon 5200 tow bar added 6 or 8 more inches where it slides into the Ready Brake receiver. So then I bought an 18 inch extension and stopped using the chains, then checked it without the 18 inch extinion and it works just fine. Took it to an empty parking lot and made tight circles, etc and check how close to the rear corners of the camper I was getting with the Jeep. Not a problem so currently I just use the Ready Brake off the factory Class 5 hitch, then the tow bar off that, then the Jeep.

Could have saved some money, if I had taken a better look instead of going with the trial and error method of measuring. But, if we do trade up to a larger camper, with more overhang, then the 18 inch extension will come in handy.

Original set up with 48 inch extension.


Here is the our current tow using just the Ready Brake and the Falcon tow bar connected to our current Jeep Unlimited. Towed it from south Florida to North Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, western Colorado, and back home through Arizona and New Mexico. Worked fine, in the closer coupling, than the original set up with the red Jeep.


Love the Jeep, Joe! Here's a pic of mine on a recent run on the Apache Trail.

2016 Northstar Laredo SC/240w Solar/2-6v Lifeline AGMs/Dometic CR110 DC Compressor Fridge
2013 Ram 3500 4x4/6.7L Cummins TD/3.42/Buckstop Bumper with Warn 16.5ti Winch/Big Wig Rear Sway Bar/Talons w/SS Fastguns
My Rig
1998 Jeep Wrangler
US Navy Ret.

joe_b_
Explorer II
Explorer II
When I first set up our previous Dodge truck I bought a 48 inch extension, which turned out to be much longer than I really needed. With our Lance 845, the overhang in the back is not a great deal. But I failed to figure in that the Jeep tow bar attachment points, are 16 inches in front of the grill. Then I added a Ready Brake auxiliary system to the Jeeps and that added an additional 20 inches. So the two of those factors added 36 inches to my setup. Then the Falcon 5200 tow bar added 6 or 8 more inches where it slides into the Ready Brake receiver. So then I bought an 18 inch extension and stopped using the chains, then checked it without the 18 inch extinion and it works just fine. Took it to an empty parking lot and made tight circles, etc and check how close to the rear corners of the camper I was getting with the Jeep. Not a problem so currently I just use the Ready Brake off the factory Class 5 hitch, then the tow bar off that, then the Jeep.

Could have saved some money, if I had taken a better look instead of going with the trial and error method of measuring. But, if we do trade up to a larger camper, with more overhang, then the 18 inch extension will come in handy.

Original set up with 48 inch extension.


Here is the our current tow using just the Ready Brake and the Falcon tow bar connected to our current Jeep Unlimited. Towed it from south Florida to North Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, western Colorado, and back home through Arizona and New Mexico. Worked fine, in the closer coupling, than the original set up with the red Jeep.
joe b.
Stuart Florida
Formerly of Colorado and Alaska
2016 Fleetwood Flair 31 B Class A w/bunks
www.picturetrail.com/jbpacooper
Alaska-Colorado and other Trips posted
"Without challenge, adventure is impossible".

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Explorer
What is a kiniffle?
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

noteven
Explorer III
Explorer III
Safety chains - our jurisdiction requires trailer safety chains to be attached in such a manner as to prevent the trailer hitch from contacting the ground in the event of an accidental uncoupling.

I cross them, and twist them to shorten them to just enough length to allow turning, and connect them right near the receiver - either the truck's safety chain connection or the Super-Truss's - depending which hitch I'm using.

On our Super-Hitch that connection is close to it's receiver, i.e. 3 ft back from the truck.

There has to be about multiple failures for the Super-Hitch to disconnect from the vehicle - 2 x 5/8" receiver pins, and 2 sway chains/connections, etc. so I don't extend safety chain forward to the truck's hitch, but you could using a kiniffle & shackle to first connect the required way to prevent grounding then on to the truck.

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Explorer
vanderjw wrote:
I have a Superhitch and a short Torklift extension. I would recommend the Torklift parts if money is not a concern. The system works very well and I don't have to worry about the hitch failing and injuring someone. I tow about 7,000 lbs.
The Superhitch/Supertruss is indeed a very well designed and well built product, as are all of Torklift's products, that I have seen so far. ๐Ÿ™‚
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Explorer
Mello Mike wrote:
Reddog1 wrote:
This is an old (2004) photo. The extension uses 2"x2" 3/16" wall tubing in instead of chains, for the side forces. Way overbuilt, and adds unnecessary weight to the truck. I have chains to replace the tubing, but keep using it for other projects. I have the tubing on the truck now, but again I will replace the tubing with chain.

Thanks, Wayne. I understand now what you're saying about the tubing for the side forces. Looks pretty sturdy. ๐Ÿ™‚
Wayne, I've been hearing about your hitch for years now. This is the first time I have seen it. I like it. ๐Ÿ™‚
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Explorer
kerry4951 wrote:
Mello Mike wrote:
I can see the need for stabilizing chains for long hitch extensions greater than 40" but why would you need them for something much shorter? My extension is 18" long and I've run into zero problems without them.

Mike
With your size extension I would not worry about using stabilizing chains. My guess would be to consider using chains on anything longer than 3 feet or thereabouts.
I agree with that.
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Explorer
WarrenS wrote:
kerry4951 wrote:
Why don't you look at the Reese 2 1/2" extensions. They offer one in 41"-48" length. I use one with stabilizing chains for my ATV trailer and it works great. I did remove my factory OEM hitch and replaced it with a Reese Titan hitch. There was a big difference in how much better the Reese was compared to the factory GM hitch.
I think I would attatch the chains to the safety chain loops near the end of the hitch rather than the loops.
The chains are actually most effective connected where they are in the pic, at an approximately 45 degree angle between the receiver hitch cross tube and the extension bar.

As the angle changes by moving the chains further out toward the aft end of the extension bar, they become less effective at limiting side to side movement of the extension bar in the receiver hitch. The angle of tension of the chains changes to more longitudinal and less lateral.

It is the lateral angle of pull that is needed to limit the lateral movement of the bar. The equilateral/equiangular triangle of forces, created by positioning the chains at 45 degree angles, is the most effective setup.
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Explorer
The turnbuckle and chains modification is simply to limit side to side movement of the extension bar in the receiver hitch, due to the normal clearance fit between the nesting tube sizes. All hitches have this normal amount of slop. On a standard length ball mount, the slop isn't much of an issue. When the ball mount is moved 3 or 4 feet out on an extension bar, the slop becomes much more noticeable.

There is nothing wrong, bad, or unsafe about doing the turnbuckle/chains mod to limit the side to side slop when using an extension bar.

Yes, the trailer's safety chains should be run from the trailer tongue, all the way to the truck's receiver hitch.
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

fishorgolf
Explorer
Explorer
kerry4951 wrote:
WarrenS wrote:
I think I would attatch the chains to the safety chain loops near the end of the hitch rather than the loops.

kerry4951 wrote:
Why don't you look at the Reese 2 1/2" extensions. They offer one in 41"-48" length. I use one with stabilizing chains for my ATV trailer and it works great. I did remove my factory OEM hitch and replaced it with a Reese Titan hitch. There was a big difference in how much better the Reese was compared to the factory GM hitch.

Thats the purpose of the loops, to attach the safety chains. Keeping the chains back on the loops keeps them out of the way and still makes the whole rig rock solid. Maybe some do hook off their chains at the end of the extension, but I never saw a need to do it.


I have one of thoes Reese 48" extentions gathering dust in my garage, It was legal to tow my boat with but, I felt unsafe. You added chains to yours to help the sway left and right. That mod you made to yours might be ilegal and dangerous. That mod might release the original manufacturer of any liability. You had that mod engineered right? I hope so.
What I do know is that at best you need to run your safty chains from you boat or trailer to your trucks towing hitch, not the trucks towing receiver. Sorry about my views on this subject and how they might not aline with yours. I use a Super Hitch with a 48" Super Truss Receiver, and leave the modifications to the engineers.
2008 Chev LTZ DRW Chev Duramax/Allison
2010 Artic Fox 1150
2005 Northwest Jet Boat
best for last
1960 DW
1960 DW

garryk6
Explorer
Explorer
vanderjw wrote:
I have a Superhitch and a short Torklift extension. I would recommend the Torklift parts if money is not a concern. The system works very well and I don't have to worry about the hitch failing and injuring someone. I tow about 7,000 lbs.

I also Have a SuperHitch/Truss running the 30" extension with chains. If you watch Craigslist and teh papers, and have patience, I was able to get both the hitch and extension for $300 and another $200 to ship it from Washington state to Kodiak, Alaska. A little wire-wheel action to clean them up and some fresh paint, and I was all set!!





Eventually I will "u-bolt" this rack on top of the hitch so that I can store gasoline and a generator down under the overhang...

Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper

vanderjw
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Superhitch and a short Torklift extension. I would recommend the Torklift parts if money is not a concern. The system works very well and I don't have to worry about the hitch failing and injuring someone. I tow about 7,000 lbs.

Mello_Mike
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:
This is an old (2004) photo. The extension uses 2"x2" 3/16" wall tubing in instead of chains, for the side forces. Way overbuilt, and adds unnecessary weight to the truck. I have chains to replace the tubing, but keep using it for other projects. I have the tubing on the truck now, but again I will replace the tubing with chain.



Thanks, Wayne. I understand now what you're saying about the tubing for the side forces. Looks pretty sturdy. ๐Ÿ™‚
2016 Northstar Laredo SC/240w Solar/2-6v Lifeline AGMs/Dometic CR110 DC Compressor Fridge
2013 Ram 3500 4x4/6.7L Cummins TD/3.42/Buckstop Bumper with Warn 16.5ti Winch/Big Wig Rear Sway Bar/Talons w/SS Fastguns
My Rig
1998 Jeep Wrangler
US Navy Ret.

kerry4951
Explorer
Explorer
WarrenS wrote:
I think I would attatch the chains to the safety chain loops near the end of the hitch rather than the loops.

kerry4951 wrote:
Why don't you look at the Reese 2 1/2" extensions. They offer one in 41"-48" length. I use one with stabilizing chains for my ATV trailer and it works great. I did remove my factory OEM hitch and replaced it with a Reese Titan hitch. There was a big difference in how much better the Reese was compared to the factory GM hitch.

Thats the purpose of the loops, to attach the safety chains. Keeping the chains back on the loops keeps them out of the way and still makes the whole rig rock solid. Maybe some do hook off their chains at the end of the extension, but I never saw a need to do it.
2009 Silverado 3500 dually D/A, Supersprings, Stable Loads, Bilsteins, Hellwig Sway Bar.
2010 Arctic Fox 1140 DB, 220 watts solar, custom 4 in 1 "U" shaped dinette/couch, baseboard and Cat 3 heat, 2nd dinette TV, cabover headboard storage, 67 TC mods