Trailer sticks to towing ball

[IndianaJim]

2 questions:

1. when i try to uncouple the trailer by cranking the handle, the ball seems to "stick" in the trailer ball socket. I have to jump on the bumper of my truck to "unstick" it. What am I doing wrong?

2. I setup the weight distribution hitch per the instructions and the trailer is very level with the truck. However, to uncouple the trailer I have to put a block of wood or brick under the crank pad or it doesn't get high enough to uncouple. Now when I drop it off at the storage lot, I always lose a piece of scrap wood or brick when I leave it in their parking lot.

Any help would be appreciated.

[SoundGuy]

I learned long ago during our popup days that when hitching the trailer to the truck to always make sure the coupler has to "reach" for the ball. Doing so ensures the coupler latch will never hang up on the ball and will close properly around the underside of the ball.

[rbpru]

Some time back someone suggested Vaseline for the ball. It works as good as any other grease and washes out of clothes easier.

All the above suggestions are neat ideas to try, before you finally jump on the hitch.

[tinstartrvlr]

Routinely lube the ball and coupler, and x2 on putting the truck in neutral. The idea is to take the pressure off the connection-sometimes moving the truck just a hair forward, if you were backing in, and vice versa, is necessary to release the pressure.

[avoidcrowds]

As the instructions dadechil posted say, lubricate the latching mechanism. My hitch kept sticking, until I oiled the upper areas of the latch - all places that metal rubs metal. Solved my problem immediately!

[dave54]

I use Pedros bicycle grease. It is designed to keep parts lubricated even when gritty and wet. But then again, my ball is kept covered when not in use so I do not get much dirt on it anyway. Never got any on my clothes either.

[Shavano]

Let's stay on topic, folks.

[TurnThePage]

This post originally referenced previous posts that have since been deleted.

Nothing to see here. Move along... 🙂

[CavemanCharlie]

I always have to jump lightly on my bumper to get it to unhook too. As some have said it sometimes helps to jack the trailer up, then get in the pickup, and put it in neutral.

[mike-s]

ralph day wrote:
From my trailer manufacturer, Brad:

Brad was a car. She named it Brad. She loved Brad. And then she totaled him. Those two had been through everything together. 2 boyfriends, 3 jobs, nothing could replace Brad. Then Liberty Mutual called, and she broke into her happy dance.

[dadechil]

ralph day wrote:
From my trailer manufacturer, Brad:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq3f8b37laQ

according to the manufacturer of that coupler Atwood says grease your ball

picture is excerpt from an atwood coupler manual


Click For Full-Size Image.

[ralph_day]

From my trailer manufacturer, Brad:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq3f8b37laQ

[dadechil]

Dennis12 wrote:
Put a lot of black grease on the ball and then go put on your best pants that you own. Now walk past the ball and get the grease on your pants. WRONG. The ball requires NO grease. Manufactures will tell you that the grease on the ball will attract dirt and grit. You can use spray grease to lubricate the locking mechanism but none on the ball. If the ball is all of the way forward your locking mechanism should latch or unlatch with very little effort. If it dose not you may need to adjust the large nut under the mechanism. You will see the fork going under the ball so that it will not come up. Make it as snug as you can with out it not sliding off of the ball when you crank it up.

The number 1 name in towing sells this product . I will go with there recommendation and grease my ball.
Ball grease

[mike-s]

Metal sliding against metal with high load? It needs to be lubricated, unless it's intentionally designed to provide friction (like some WD bars with sway control).

If you get grease on your pants, you're doing it wrong and you can expect to have bruised shins, too. That's not a good reason to avoid using grease.

[dodge_guy]

Dennis12 wrote:
Put a lot of black grease on the ball and then go put on your best pants that you own. Now walk past the ball and get the grease on your pants. WRONG. The ball requires NO grease. Manufactures will tell you that the grease on the ball will attract dirt and grit. You can use spray grease to lubricate the locking mechanism but none on the ball. If the ball is all of the way forward your locking mechanism should latch or unlatch with very little effort. If it dose not you may need to adjust the large nut under the mechanism. You will see the fork going under the ball so that it will not come up. Make it as snug as you can with out it not sliding off of the ball when you crank it up.

No need for black grease. Any wheel bearing type of grease will work. And yes the ball and couplet need to be lubed, otherwise you'll get galling which will wear out a ball and coupler. It can also loosen the nut from the friction on the 2 surfaces when turning. In all my years I have never gotten grease on my pants, legs or hands. I wipe out the old at the beginning of the season and apply new. If I'm on a very long trip I'll check and clean and/or add as needed.