Splitting the trucks 7-pin into both 6-pin TC plug and 4-pin trailer plug. What are you guys using? Fabricating a harness? Torklift's expensive splitter/extension? We'll be pulling a 6x12 enclosed, no brakes, but a handfull of running lights plus brake and license lights. All are incandesent, as are all the lights on the TC. Do I need to worry about amp draw? Is it better to switch to LED running/brake lights? What about some kinda relay array? How about a booster instead of LEDs, like this:http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tow-Ready/119192.htmlI have a factory, 2013 Ford connector on the truck and the 7-pin to 6-pin, about 10' long, cord that came with the coach. My cargo trailer is 4-pin. We will not be using a hitch extension, so I don't need the Torklift unit's longer wires. Sources for cheap components to make a harness or links for reasonably priced ready-made would be appreciated. I'm not afraid of a soldering iron or shink tube and I haven't checked what gauge wire the factory used. I guess I know enough to be dangerous, but that's about it.Thanks

You can buy a four pin flat extension cable at many auto parts stores or RV stores.Most new Fords have two wiring systems. One is for rig and other for trailer.Was or is the cmper connected to the rig's electrical or is it connected to the trailer system.There should be separte set of fuses under the hood for the trailer connector.

Doesn't your truck already have a 7pin and a 4pin plug? I thought all recent Ford's did?

It's my understanding that there are seperate fuses for the Ford's trailer connector, but power to the factory plug isn't my issue. It works fine. A safe method for powering the truck camper and a trailer at the same time is my objective.Yes. The factory Ford hook-up has a 7-pin and a 4-pin connection, but you can only open one access door, 7 or 4, at a time. That's what got me thinking about amp draw. I'm sure it'd be a no-brainer to solder in a 4-pin pigtail for the trailer into the camper's 10 foot long cord. I'm trying to find out if that's advisable, or will I have problems?

well you can use both at the same time if you can figure out a way to get the door open, maybe remove the hinge pin? I have mine t-d off for an in-bed plug for when I tow the 5th wheel. I use this plug to the camper and use my flat 4 pin at the back at the same time.

hedge wrote:well you can use both at the same time if you can figure out a way to get the door open, maybe remove the hinge pin? I have mine t-d off for an in-bed plug for when I tow the 5th wheel. I use this plug to the camper and use my flat 4 pin at the back at the same time.I recently assisted a friend who did this. He purchased a harness assembly from an online trailer supply that plugs into the back of the 7 blade receptacle and the other end mounts in the bed of his P/U. That leaves the factory 7 or 4 pin hookups available for use also. JMO

Trailer wire harness | Good Sam Community

enblethen
Nomad
Jan 16, 2014
You can buy a four pin flat extension cable at many auto parts stores or RV stores.
Most new Fords have two wiring systems. One is for rig and other for trailer.
Was or is the cmper connected to the rig's electrical or is it connected to the trailer system.
There should be separte set of fuses under the hood for the trailer connector.
hedge
Explorer
Jan 16, 2014
Doesn't your truck already have a 7pin and a 4pin plug? I thought all recent Ford's did?
Carb_Cleaner
Explorer
Jan 16, 2014
It's my understanding that there are seperate fuses for the Ford's trailer connector, but power to the factory plug isn't my issue. It works fine. A safe method for powering the truck camper and a trailer at the same time is my objective.
Yes. The factory Ford hook-up has a 7-pin and a 4-pin connection, but you can only open one access door, 7 or 4, at a time. That's what got me thinking about amp draw. I'm sure it'd be a no-brainer to solder in a 4-pin pigtail for the trailer into the camper's 10 foot long cord. I'm trying to find out if that's advisable, or will I have problems?
hedge
Explorer
Jan 16, 2014
well you can use both at the same time if you can figure out a way to get the door open, maybe remove the hinge pin? I have mine t-d off for an in-bed plug for when I tow the 5th wheel. I use this plug to the camper and use my flat 4 pin at the back at the same time.
BTPO1
Explorer
Jan 16, 2014
hedge wrote:
well you can use both at the same time if you can figure out a way to get the door open, maybe remove the hinge pin? I have mine t-d off for an in-bed plug for when I tow the 5th wheel. I use this plug to the camper and use my flat 4 pin at the back at the same time.

I recently assisted a friend who did this. He purchased a harness assembly from an online trailer supply that plugs into the back of the 7 blade receptacle and the other end mounts in the bed of his P/U. That leaves the factory 7 or 4 pin hookups available for use also. JMO
rickeoni
Explorer
Jan 16, 2014
I run a splitter harness from the 7 pin connector. It splits into two, seven pin connectors, one powering TC and the other for my trailer. TC is all incandescent bulbs and trailer is all LED. Have run this for several years with no problems.
650cent
Explorer
Jan 16, 2014
You could use one of these: http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Ford/F-250+and+F-350+Super+Duty/2009/20119.html?vehicleid=20091172147
it plugs into your factory wiring and replaces the factory plug under the bumper.

Bill
sh410
Explorer
Jan 16, 2014
Look here for 7pin to 4 pin adapter.
JumboJet
Explorer
Jan 16, 2014
Carb Cleaner wrote:
What are you guys using? Fabricating a harness? Torklift's expensive splitter/extension?

I am using what came with my 2013 RAM 3500. 7 pin and 4 pin in the bumper and 7 pin installed in the bed. RAM came that way. Already setup. NO fuss.
Steelhog
Explorer
Jan 16, 2014
I spliced the TC harness into the backside wires of the 7 pin harness for indicator, brake and clearance lighting then soldered all connections and used Liquid Electrical tape to seal the connections. For your TC charging power run a separate line from one of your batteries through a Cycling/Automatic Reset - 30 Amp - Straight Mount Bracket Circuit Breaker(about $5 at e-trailer.com.)to the power lead on the TC harness. Mount the circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible to protect as much of the wiring as possible. You can get 8ga automotive primary stranded wire from most automotive supply place (Autozone,etc) and wet location crimp lugs from West Marine. Use a 7 Pole Flat to 4 Pole Connector Adapter under $10 bucks same place at the bumper.