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Trojan T-105 batteries rock

Matthew_B
Explorer
Explorer
I've always lamented that RV net locks old threads, or I'd post back here .

I actually purchased my T-105 batteries in 2007. They've been in use since then.

We use the camper a lot. We do summer trips, rarely with hookups. Our oldest did equestrian competition and it got used for those, the next two swim competitively, we use the camper to stay at meets for them.

If we're going where there are hookups, I leave the 6V golf cart batteries at home. If we're staying more than one day, I go to the trouble of throwing them in the bed and hooking them up.

At home the camper is plugged in 100% of the time with a good 3 stage charger (currently an Iota). They get their proper watering with distilled water, cleaned, etc..

In that useage the 12V battery will last about 3 years. One time I got talked into the SC-220 for $190 and it made it one more year. We recently had a 3 day swim meet, and went to a RV park with plugins so I only had the 12V battery. When I went to dump tanks, it struggled to run the pump; it was totally shot. We were going home for only a few days and then heading out for 4 days in the boonies camping and fishing. I decided to wing it on only the T-105 batteries and figured I might have to run to town and buy a new battery if they didn't cut it as they are getting close to a decade old. Nope, they did just fine. It wasn't too cold so the furnace only ran a bit in the morning but still I'm impressed for such old batteries.
18 REPLIES 18

skyhammer
Explorer
Explorer
I have 4, group 31 yellow tops in my boat, bought in 2009.2 batteries are in the rear of the boat and run the 5.7 main engine, sonar, kicker, lights, radio, and 4 electric down riggers. They are still going strong.
The yellow tops in the front of the boat run my electric trolling motor and have been heavily abused.
By my calculations, they have run down to 12.1-2 volts 210 times and are still going strong.Just got back from a fishing trip where I ran the 2 yellow tops down to nearly nothing 10 days in a row. Hooked them up to my 30 amp speed charger for 4-5 hours,took them off the charger when they hit 13.25 volts and they were ready for another day.
2011 Host Everest, 11.5',triple slide.
2011 F-350,DRW,CC,LWB,4X4,6.7

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
SoCalDesertRider wrote:
monkey44 wrote:
SoCalDesertRider wrote:
You can barely buy a tiny riding lawn mower battery for $46 these days. The small battery in my Ranger was $120. And they're all made in Mexico or China.

My good old American made pair of Optima red tops in my '92 F350 are still going strong, at least 10 years old for the newest one and over 10 years for the oldest one.
SO how are Optima batteries for the camper? Is this only a starting battery? I see it talks about Boat and RV too, but that might just mean you CAN, not that its a good battery for RV and drain/charge variations. Any advice here ... thanks B

I can only fit one battery in the boot, so need the best/longest discharge time, no maintenance battery I can get - My Interstate 27 just quit on us after about five years.
Optima red tops are starting batteries, but have a good reserve minute capacity. The yellow and blue tops are deep cycle rv/marine batteries, with better reserve minute capacity. However, I doubt I would spend the rediculous amount of money they want for Optimas now days and they're not as good quality as they once were.


And from my experiences, they weren't very good back then either.
I was able to warranty and get a free replacement 3x in a row on Red tops in my boat. Never made it more than 2 years. Didn't matter hot/cold, maintained off season or not.
The 4th battery somehow was golden. Swapped it from the boat to an old Jeep at about 2 years old. Jeep gets started a half dozen times a year at that and maybe 50 mi of driving. Maintained once in a while when I would remember to. That battery just gave up the ghost this year close to 10 years.
Had 2 blue tops that pulled the 2 years and die routine as well and those sat on smart charger/ maintainers in the off season.

By comparison, I've had a better experience with Odyssey/Die hard Platinum batteries thus far. Have a set of mismatched Odysseys 1 approaching 10 years old, the other is maybe 6? Again swapped out of boat to truck and they've kept the truck going strong.
This truck sometimes gets used daily, sometimes sits for a month.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

partsman01
Explorer
Explorer
Found out my fifth wheel has two of these.
Trojan 24TM 12V 70Ah Group 24 Marine RV Dual Purpose Battery

It is in a used 2004 we bought in 2010, I think the date code is 2007, and I think it is time to check them and see if they need replacing, but I think they make a good battery, wonder if I would be better off with 2 6 volt instead though.

Eric_Lisa
Explorer II
Explorer II
A huge +1 and a 'me too' for Trojan batteries!!!

I bought a J150 Trojan battery in 2006 for my camper. I water it every spring, and I keep it connected to the charger. The camper lives in a heated shop when not being used.

This past weekend I noticed the battery was getting a little soft. It went down a lot more overnight dry camping than it had in the past with a similar load. This is probably due to some inadvertent abuse recently - I left a fan running in the camper and the power cord had come unplugged - and flattened the battery. So I went out yesterday and bought a new Trojan battery.

Evidently the J150 is an unusual model that is tough to find. They sold me a T-1275 which is almost the same size (slightly shorter), and they said it has the same core as the J150. The Internet shows it has the exact same specs, so I suspect that is accurate.

Trojan batteries are tough to find, I had to drive most of the way across the metro area to get one. And at $230, they are not cheap. Doing the math, if it lasts 10 years like the last one, that is only $2 a month. Versus a $100 battery that lasts 36 months, it is significantly cheaper. Trojan batteries are not intended for these applications. The J150 was designed to fit a floor buffer, and just happens to fit the battery box on my Lance camper.

Yeah, if you are keeping your camper for a while, invest in a Trojan battery. Money well spent in my opinion.

-Eric
Eric & Lisa - Oregon
'97 Silverado K2500, New HT383 motor!, Airbags, anti-sway bar
'03 Lance model 1030, generator, solar,

Crabbypatty
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a pair of T 125's for our TT back in 2004. Installed the Charge Wizard which properly modulates the PW house charger. Plugged in at home all the time. When I sold the TT in 2014 they were still going strong so it was a no brainer to do the same thing on our new to us TT. The key to wet battery usage longevity is to not discharge them more than 50%. Though they are designed to go to 0, this adds to there life significantly. Now I have 428 watts solar on a Morning star controller. We spent a week at the beach, dry camping with tw0 college kids charging there stuff and we never ran the generator. So get a battery meter or plug a VOM into the cigarette lighter socket and measure the batteries charge state. I also feed a 2000 watt Xantrax Inverter so we have 110volts for tv's whatever. Still run the frig on gas but when we get lazy, we do plug in the coffee pot!
John, Lisa & Tara:B:C:)
2015 F250 4x4 6.2L 6 spd 3.73s, CC Short Bed, Pullrite Slide 2700, 648 Wts Solar, 4 T-125s, 2000 Watt Xantrax Inverter, Trimetric 2030 Meter, LED Lights, Hawkings Smart Repeater, Wilson Extreme Cellular Repeater, Beer, Ribs, Smoker

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
Thanks 2oldnslow ...that is exactly the answer I was looking for - I'll go the AGM route this time, sealed and no maintenance because mine is same place as yours - high in rear of an 845. Will see if I can find two that fit if I set them on side ... but tried that before and no size fits two.

I have a wet one - 27 - now, a PITA to check and add water, and is probably what killed it - got five years tho. Will look at Trojan, and the others you mentioned this week and see the sizes that will fit in the box ... Dead as a door nail, and drops charge in two days with zero load.
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic

thundercloud
Explorer
Explorer
I am on my 8th year with my two T105. I leave the camper plugged in all the time to a nice 3 stage charger. I check the water twice per year and keep topped off with distilled water.
Happy TC'N,
David
____________________________________________
2006 Dodge Ram 3500 MegaCab 4x4 CTD 6-speed
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4SB, Xantrex XADC 60, AM Solar 200 watt SunRunner system, Mach8 Cub, Honda eu2200i, Rigid Industries LED lights

2oldnslow
Explorer
Explorer
monkey44 wrote:
Can anyone tell me the difference between the Deep Cycle and the Gel battery?

Which is best for boon-docking?

Deep cycle and gel are two independent terms. Most gel batteries are deep cycle, but there are many other types of deep cycle batteries.

Gel batteries have a gelled electrolyte so they are non-spillable. They require a lower charge voltage than other deep cycle types because they can not be charged or discharged at a high rate or they will be destroyed. They used to be used in power wheelchairs and other portable power devices but they have mostly been replaced by AGM types. I don't think there are many true gel batteries available anymore. Some people mistakenly refer to AGM batteries as gel, even battery dealers do it.

For deep cycle batteries now the 2 most common types are flooded and AGM. Flooded batteries have to be placed upright and need to have water added periodically. AGM (absorbed glas mat) batteries can be placed at any angle and need no maintenance. They also cost more than flooded types. If a battery lists its capacity in CCA (cold cranking amps) or reserve minutes, it is not a true deep cycle battery. A true deep cycle battery will have its capacity listed in AHr (amp-hours).

I always reccomend AGM or sealed maintenance-free batteries in RVs because they are almost always hard to access to add water to a flooded battery. My 845 carries its battery high and all the way to the rear, that will make it bounce around on rough roads. If yours is like that then a flooded battery could spill some electrolyte (acid) on rough roads. That is another reason to go with sealed or AGM.

I boondock a lot, so I have 2 6V AGM batteries in the cabinet under the front dinette seat. I use thae battery compartment for other storage.

The brands mentioned above (Deka, Lifeline, etc.) are all good ones.
2005 GMC 2500HD
1998 Lance 845
320AHr Battery Bank
400W Solar Array
Morningstar ProStar 30 PWM Controller
NovaKool R5810 5.8cf 12VDC Refridgerator (best mod ever!)

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
Can anyone tell me the difference between the Deep Cycle and the Gel battery?

Which is best for boon-docking?

I can fit the G-31 in the box, but none of the batteries can fit two. And as we all know, the camper batteries are in a box with no slide-tray, and shoulder height - so weight makes a difference.

The G-31 is probably fine for what we need. We do much shorter trips in the boon-dock status that earlier in my camping days. Age has its benefits, but also its penalties ๐Ÿ™‚
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic

bb_94401
Explorer
Explorer
Monkey 44 --

As MatthewB points out Trojan makes great batteries, while one group 27 or 31 battery would fit in your compartment they have other sizes on their website with more A-hr capacity, that you might look into to see if they would fit your compartment (GC12 and 921 group size).

Several other companies also make deep cycle AGM batteries that would meet your requirement for a single 12 VDC battery such as Concorde, Lifeline, Deka to name a few.

One other point to consider with AGM batteries is that while they are non-spillable in any orientation, they can be mounted in any orientation except upside down, so you might be able to fit two 12 VDC or two 6 VDC batteries in your compartment with them on their sides, if you need more A-hr capacity than a single battery can provide.
'05 Ram 3500, 4x4, DRW, LB, 6spd man, CTD, PRXB exhaust brake, Roadmaster bar

'01 Corsair 10'8" - 4,200 lbs., Xantrex XADC 80A, Link 20, 4-Lifeline GPL-4CT, PowerGate Isolater, 2 AWG wire, PI 30A EMS, 2 Honda EU2000i, parallel kit, ext. duration tank.

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
As everyone knows, we have limited space in our battery compartment. So, what is the best battery to install. Some folks say two six volt instead, but it won't fit.

Some have an outside compartment wired in as an alternate - Torklift has a add-on compartment, for one. But I'd prefer one battery inside the stock compartment ... just looking for the best deep cycle, and want quality not necessarily save a buck.

We do boon-dock sometimes, but not enough anymore to make it worth adding another one. We can get by easily three or four days on one charge when we go into the 'battery mode' lifestyle off the grid.

We have a Lance 845 with single battery compartment-
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Explorer
monkey44 wrote:
SoCalDesertRider wrote:
You can barely buy a tiny riding lawn mower battery for $46 these days. The small battery in my Ranger was $120. And they're all made in Mexico or China.

My good old American made pair of Optima red tops in my '92 F350 are still going strong, at least 10 years old for the newest one and over 10 years for the oldest one.
SO how are Optima batteries for the camper? Is this only a starting battery? I see it talks about Boat and RV too, but that might just mean you CAN, not that its a good battery for RV and drain/charge variations. Any advice here ... thanks B

I can only fit one battery in the boot, so need the best/longest discharge time, no maintenance battery I can get - My Interstate 27 just quit on us after about five years.
Optima red tops are starting batteries, but have a good reserve minute capacity. The yellow and blue tops are deep cycle rv/marine batteries, with better reserve minute capacity. However, I doubt I would spend the rediculous amount of money they want for Optimas now days and they're not as good quality as they once were.
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

covered_wagon
Explorer
Explorer
If there is ever a question about who you should follow for any advice, especially on 12 volt systems, my vote goes to Matthew B.

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
SoCalDesertRider wrote:
You can barely buy a tiny riding lawn mower battery for $46 these days. The small battery in my Ranger was $120. And they're all made in Mexico or China.

My good old American made pair of Optima red tops in my '92 F350 are still going strong, at least 10 years old for the newest one and over 10 years for the oldest one.


SO how are Optima batteries for the camper? Is this only a starting battery? I see it talks about Boat and RV too, but that might just mean you CAN, not that its a good battery for RV and drain/charge variations. Any advice here ... thanks B

I can only fit one battery in the boot, so need the best/longest discharge time, no maintenance battery I can get - My Interstate 27 just quit on us after about five years.
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic