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kiloseven's avatar
kiloseven
Explorer
Sep 21, 2015

Trying to seal everything that could leak in an older TT

We bought a 1993 travel trailer. It was used mainly as a second residence for family that was coming to visit the family we bought it from.

Backstory:

We noticed a soft spot in the floor in the storage compartment in the rear. We lifted the linoleum and the wood was soaked. We removed all wet wood and wood that looked as though it got wet. We removed the insulation and basically rebuilt the whole storage compartment area. What a pain. Anyway, lucky for us, it rained a lot these past few weeks and we noticed that the old rain gutters had a point where the water would run down over the gutter and down the side of the camper right over the storage compartment door where we thought the leak originated from.

Our fix:

Other than rebuilding the whole storage compartment interior which took 3 days, we also removed and resealed the storage compartment door and the water heater compartment door right next to it.

We bought some EZE gutter and put a seamless gutter along each side of the trailer right under the old gutter and extending slightly past the old gutter on each end. We also put a strip over the front window.

What we want to do:

We want to take some of that roof repair sealant which comes in a tube like caulk and seal around the windows and other areas which may leak. We also want to take a bead of silicon and run it along the top side of the EZE gutter to limit any junk that may build up and eventually start working the 3M tape loose.

We also want to go over the seals where the roof meets the side with the roofing sealant.

My question:

Are going overboard? We don;t want to have to repair an area that got water damage like the storage compartment area. We got lucky being able to access the tight storage compartment space by lifting a small bed up, but it would have been too hard if we could not do that. We just don't want to have this thing leak and know that we could have done a little preventative maintainance to stop it from happening. Any suggestions?

We are in Alaska. We need to winterize the TT very soon and from the looks of the weather, we have 4 days of decent (non-rainy) weather to work on this starting tomorrow. After that, all bets are off and we will have to put it away for the winter. We are getting the TT ready for a return drive along the ALCAN back to Texas and don't want any surprises as the snow thaws.

Thanks
  • I was going to share my experience with you until you mentioned the ALASKA/cold/snow/storage scenario. I'm in South Florida and know nothing about cold climates. I was going to say that I had done exactly what you said on my precious TT and it worked to prevent leaks. Only suggest is I put three small stainless screws in each of the 3m plastic rain gutters as they separated from the side of the TT after a short time. In my case the glue melted. LOL
  • For the roof seams and edges use Eternabond.

    For caulking the roof openings, use Dicor Self Leveling caulk if you can't use Eternabond.
  • Never use any silicone sealants on the exterior of the RV. If you thought repairing a storage/floor area was difficult, removing old failed silicone from all over an RV exterior will be about the same amount of aggravation. Asphaltic roof sealants will compare to silicone, don't use them.

    Most experienced RV users have found that Dicor or Geocel Proflex, both polymer based sealants are the ones to use. They are formulated for the movement of the trailer and will not degrade as quickly in weather.
  • I would also consider having a pressure test done to ensure no other leaks. It's amazing how far away from the leak water can travel. If there are any windows in that area I'd also remove and reseal those and check and reseal anything on the roof.

    Like westend said avoid silicone. I prefer Dicor lap sealant for the roof and Pro flex on anything vertical.
  • We had a trailer that we'd owned for 14 years, needless to say we enjoyed it a lot. We live in an area that's known for rough weather, and at one time suspected a leak in a window or two; so I can help out a bit here.

    The windows are typically two-piece, with an outer section that does the sealing to the outside of the unit - it has the glass and screens - and an inner ring, which holds it all in place. It's just a few minutes' work with a screw gun to take the inner ring off and then to push the window into the arms of a helper.

    To re-seal, just apply butyl rubber tape, like this product on Anazon, then put the window back together. You'll want to measure your flanges beforehand to make sure you have the right size tape - size the tape to the flange, 25% smaller, to allow for the butyl to squeeze out as the window comes back together. The butyl will squeeze out of the flange, making a perfect seal. Best thing about butyl tape is that you can cut-and-piece it together when resealing things like outside power outlets. (Yes, don't forget that kind of stuff.)

    You'll want a plastic putty knife and plenty of paper towels for cleanup, but the reseal will last a dozen years or more.

    Hope that helps.