How do you size a tongue jack?I have a 2010 Shadow Cruiser 195wbs. Dry -3,400 #GVWR -5,600#Tongue -400#I've found jacks rated at 2,500 to 4,500# ? ? ?

I always go for the one with more lift. The lower size will work for sure just look at the tongue weight of your rig but the 2500 will work fine but if the 4500 is not that much more go for it. Also remember to check the hole size that your current crank up jack is. I think its 2 sizes to pick from and I think you measure from one hole to the next one or its measure the opening of the hole the jack goes through. Just remember not to switch the switch to fast from up to down or it will blow the fuse. I always try to remember to stop first then switch to down or up. easier said than done when in a hurry. If I ever went back to a pull behind again it must have an electric jack, world of difference for sure. good luck

Get the heaviest one you can afford. Remember, when hitching and putting on your Weight Distribution Bars, the trailer jack not only has to lift the trailer, but it has to lift WD bars, and the tow vehicle too. Go for the strongest one you can afford, you won't regret it.One other thought. Check the distance from the new tongue jack to the back end of the open tailgate of your truck (if you're towing with a pick-up). When I switched over to an electric jack, my tail gate will not lay flat now when hitched. The jack is too close now. A microscopic change in the diameter of the shaft can make a big difference. The easiest solution is to get a hitch shaft that is a bit longer so the trailer sits back an extra inch or two. But I've not invested into a hitch with a longer shaft. I just learned how to deal with the tail gait not laying flat.Edit: You also want to get one with the longest shaft possible. Mine has a flat foot that can be adjusted to different heights to make the shaft longer or shorter. I got the longest shaft I could find, and find that, even with the longest shaft, sometimes when camped on a hill, I still have to put several blocks under the jack to make the trailer level.

I would size a Barker VIP 3500 with the 24" stroke for your setup...

KID2TEXAS wrote:Also remember to check the hole size that your current crank up jack is.It will either be a 2" diameter hole or 2.25", with most travel trailers, even smaller ones having a 2.25" hole. Any 2500 lb and up power tongue jack would work fine for the OP but there can be an advantage in selecting one in which the head can be rotated a full 180 degrees if interference with a truck tailgate is a problem. With many power tongue jacks this isn't possible, the UltraFab 3502 being an exception ... I've owned one and did rotate the head a full 180 degrees just by loosening the four head bolts. I'd also suggest a tongue jack with a metal head rather than plastic which will fade noticeably from exposure to the sun - black will eventually turn a greyish black, white will yellow, and being plastic it will eventually dry out and crack. In fact, anything plastic on the tongue - tongue jack head, propane tank covers, battery boxes, etc - will fade in no time, ergo the reason I cover the entire A frame whenever we're not actually camping.

DutchmenSport wrote:You also want to get one with the longest shaft possible.I'd disagree. Any tongue jack sitting at maximum extension won't be as stable as one extended just part way, which in turn means using a stack of some sort anyway. The LCI that came with my current trailer has an 18" extension but whether I'm parking it on my significantly sloped driveway ...... or even a relatively flat campsite I still use a stack under the tongue jack for maximum stability ...... so a tongue jack with any more than 18" extension wouldn't be of any advantage anyway. Only when the trailer is parked on a tongue high campsite would I not use a stack, replacing it instead with a single piece of 3/4" plywood which results in the tongue jack being only partly extended, thereby offering maximum stability.

Upgrading to an electric tongue jack | Good Sam Community

bmet2000
Explorer
Dec 10, 2015
I went with the Barker 3500 VIP with the 24" shaft. With the shorter shaft, I could not open my tailgate, with the 24" I can. Well worth it.
rbpru
Explorer II
Dec 10, 2015
Mackenzie,

Now that would be handy.:)
gmckenzie
Explorer
Dec 10, 2015
My next electric jack will be 4500 lbs AND with a remote. Between a remote and a rear view camera, I figure I can hook up by myself without getting out of the truck.
rbpru
Explorer II
Dec 10, 2015
It is funny how you get used to things like a tongue jack. My TV came with so many bells and whistles that I never would have ordered but I find very handy.

While I never thought a tongue jack necessary, I certainly would not remove one if I had one.
colliehauler
Explorer III
Dec 10, 2015
mikebte wrote:
I never had one till I purchased my last camper. Always figured them to be over rated and a waste of money.

I now love mine. At least till it breaks.
Funny how that works. I would never be without a electric tongue jack unless it was a very light weight trailer.
colliehauler
Explorer III
Dec 10, 2015
On my TH TT I use a Barker 3500 (been on 3 different trailers). Anymore if I need a electric tongue jack for a TT I buy the 3500# ebay special for less then a $100. They don't even give a brand name but they work just fine.

I looked up on ebay and for a no name 3500# jack with free shipping $80.
krobbe
Explorer
Dec 10, 2015
My tongue weighs up to 1200# ready to camp. My Husky 4500 easily lifts the tongue and raises the back of the truck so no jacking bars are needed when hitching up. And it doesn't need a bucket placed over it to keep the rain out of it. Some brands are subject to water damage. Just sayin'...
With your 400 to 600# tongue, a Husky 3000 would work well.
mikebte
Explorer
Dec 10, 2015
I never had one till I purchased my last camper. Always figured them to be over rated and a waste of money.

I now love mine. At least till it breaks.
rbpru
Explorer II
Dec 09, 2015
When my manual tongue jack stripped out, I replaced it with another manual jack. It is my last vestige of exercise associated with camping since I bought my TT.
ken56
Explorer
Dec 09, 2015
Not sure if there are any guidelines on sizing one but I have to agree on getting one that will lift both the tongue weight and the back of your truck to make hooking up the tension bars easier. My trailer TW is in the 700 range and I put an Ultra Fab 4000 on mine. It lifts everything easily. I did have to turn it so the head faced to the side for tailgate clearance. Be prepared to drill and tap a hole or two if things don't line up quite right.

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