Video: High amp charging from the truck to the camper

I just started this exact upgrade. I have a Ford F150 w/Ecoboost and wanted to have the ability to top off my trailer batteries while driving. I know that the light gauge wires in the 7 wire connectors would not do it. I am also using a solinoid type battery isolator, Anderson connectors, and 4 gauge wires. I have circuit breakers on hand to add to both ends at my alt and battery. I didn't know that anyone else did this kind of thing. When I have my Class C, I rewired the coach battery charging system and reduced my problems. I also installed a digital volt meter in the coach which I will be adding to my TT also.

I run 2ga between my camper, truck and trailer. Each is connected by an Anderson connector and protected by 150A marine breakers at each power source.

Nice install Doug. We use a Blue Sea circuit breaker installed in the passenger side footwell. Its a simple system comprised of 2 guage wire fused on both ends with anderson connector and environment boot to the camper.

I've been thinking about this modification for couple of seasons, but for me the only need for 12V high amp is refrigerator and unfortunately Dometic makes 12V element much lower W what might make for inadequate cooling in triple digits temperatures we usually travel.
Thanks for additional inspiration.
Than I know that when you have plug that needs to be pulled for camper drop, sooner or later SOMEBODY will forget to pull it, so bolting the plug to truck bed and making it self-disconnect on pull would be on my list as well.
My truck has factory 400W inverter, so I am thinking about pulling 120V cord for refrigerator, but high voltage calls for more protection.
Anybody tried this?

Thanks for taking the time to video the install.

It reminded me of an old thread on here from many years ago, your
video brought it to life.

DC Charging to Camper from Truck Mod.

The big thing if you want to push 30-40amps 12v is you need thicker wires. Assuming a 20' wiring run, you are really looking at 4-6 gauge to avoid excessive voltage drop. This is the single biggest limiting factor.

Secondarily, is the alternator designed for continuous output? Heavy duty trucks (particularly twin battery diesel trucks) can be different but for light duty vehicles a lot of times, the alternator system is set up to put out the rated output for a few minutes after starting to replace the juice it takes to turn the starter and then it dials back to handle modest loads. Continuous high output alternators are available that can put out a lot of power continuously without overheating. 200-300amp alternators are available but then you need even bigger cables to move that power back to the RV (related to this is also the RPM that you are running. 700RPM engine idle will not put out anything close to 2000RPM highway cruising).

Upgrading the wiring is necessary regardless even with the proposed system so easier to just swap that out first and see what you get. Good chance that buys you 70-90% of the extra amps.