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Volts and Sillcone

mat60
Explorer
Explorer
Thank goodness were going camping soon..:) Some things to ask..I have a Dork plug in digital volt meter in my TT now. When I'm at lets say 120 volts with no load and I turn on my air cond exc what is the lowest reading I should see without doing damage to things?...Also I think they used sillcone on my TT. Looks like it and dealer said it is and can you believe that's all they sell. I bought some Proflex on Amazon and wanted to ask would you try to remove all you can of the sillcone? Also the factory never used anything at all on the sides and bottoms of all my windows and door. Doesn't that need to be sealed up with Proflex? If I get caught in a poring rain I'm afraid Ill have a leak. Asked the dealer and they said it should be fine..Ha Ha. Be thankfull for some help on this.
2018 Heartland Trailrunner 24 SLE... 1999 old style Chevy 2500 with 34k
17 REPLIES 17

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
While the standard "nominal" voltage throughout north america is 120 volts and most things are designed to run optimally at 120, some equipment & appliances (motors are a good ex.) are designed to run at lower voltages because it allows for lower voltage at the point of use. RV AC units are rated for operation at 115 volts. The different RV AC unit manufacturers will have specs for operating voltage. AirXcel for ex. says:

However, the voltage will vary and the air conditioning system will perform satisfactorily within plus or minus 10% of the rated (115) voltage (domestic USA). Therefore, the voltage has to be
between 103.5 volts and 126.5 volts.


Low voltage is a common problem in CGs, esp. in older ones. The Progressive Industries EMS will cut you off at 104 volts while the TRC SurgeGuard cuts off at 102 volts which is lower than what AirXcel specifies. Some, like me, use 105 volts as a safe min. The SurgeGuard voltage of 102 is too low IMO.

If voltage is low at an RV AC unit, it is hard on it both under running and startup conditions. If voltage is too low, it's hard on the motor windings and over time, can lead to motor failure. During the momentary startup, the inrush current can be 60+ amps (depending on make & model). You can be just above the low voltage threshold and the motor can struggle to start and damage the winding. The damage is cumulative and one day the AC unit can fail for no apparent reason.

Checking the voltage without load is not a good method for deciding if the voltage is adequate. If you have a permanent voltmeter inside, you should monitor periodically throughout the day.

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
My 2010 TT is loaded with silicone, it was used to seal about everything because it was cheap and good.

Today there are better and cheaper sealants, so silicone has fallen out of favor. Especially since it is hard to remove.

Since I do not repair what is not broken and the few crack in the sealant are closed with whatever sticky goo I use, it has not been much of an issue.

Good luck
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

mat60
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
114VAC is fine!
.Thanks for the good luck comment also Scott.
2018 Heartland Trailrunner 24 SLE... 1999 old style Chevy 2500 with 34k

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
114VAC is fine!

mat60
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for more info I'm saving guys.
2018 Heartland Trailrunner 24 SLE... 1999 old style Chevy 2500 with 34k

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I start using an autoformer when voltage sags to 107 volts.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
Power companies usually spec 120VAC +/-10V and appliance will not have problem with that.

If you are having a problem, it is usually caused by a heavy load (like an air conditioner) which has a very LARGE starting load. If your wiring and power source are not in good condition you might drop down to even below 100V for a fraction of a second. You need a special kind of a meter to "capture" such a short drop in voltage.

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
mat60 wrote:
I get from 119 to 121 volts showing on my volt meter with no load. I turned on my ac just to test it and the volts went down to 114 and I shut it of thinking that was bad.


That would be normal.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

mat60
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you guys.
2018 Heartland Trailrunner 24 SLE... 1999 old style Chevy 2500 with 34k

mat60
Explorer
Explorer
I am not proud to say that all I have is a Progressive ssp-30Xl and will be honest I cant order anything else right now. I only have 20 amp at home until upgrade. I no I need to upgrade. I get from 119 to 121 volts showing on my volt meter with no load. I turned on my ac just to test it and the volts went down to 114 and I shut it of thinking that was bad.
2018 Heartland Trailrunner 24 SLE... 1999 old style Chevy 2500 with 34k

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
mat60 wrote:
ScottG wrote:
Yes, get rid of any and all silicone. There are products at the H/W store to help chemically remove it.
They don't usually seal the bottom of windows and such with caulk. I suspect they want them to drain if anything should ge in. It is sealed with putty though.
Thanks Scott..What about the sides of the windows?


The first line of defense is a putty under the flange of the window or door.
I suspect manufacturers only apply a caulk around the edge of those area's in an effort to keep the putty from pooching out.
If you like, you can put a small bead around those spots but I have area's of caulk missing around my windows and I'm not going to bother with them.
Good luck with your new rig!

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Utility companies 'standards' are 120V AC +/- 10%
That is 108V - 132V

Below 108V AC the electric motors can be damaged.....at which time I shut down my A/C Unit OR start my Generator
YES the 'surge protectors' trip on low voltage settings of 104V.
But 30 years in Power Plants (major utiity company) gives me a different perspective


Silicone should never be used on RVs.
Silicone will NOT even stick to itself.....difficult to get rid of residue left behind.
Have to use a 'chemical' silicone residue remover.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
mat60 wrote:
When I'm at lets say 120 volts with no load and I turn on my air cond exc what is the lowest reading I should see without doing damage to things?


My Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C disconnects power to the coach when incoming source voltage, under load, falls below 104 vac so I like to see at least 110 vac incoming without much load, before turning on the A/C. Some would be uncomfortable with 104 vac but TRC has selected an even lower 102 vac as their EMS low voltage disconnect threshold. You didn't ask but if you're truly concerned about potential damage to your rig's electrical system you'd be doing yourself a huge favour by investing in an EMS.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

mat60
Explorer
Explorer
This camper has corrugated siding and windows have a frames. Hope I can upgrade some day.
2018 Heartland Trailrunner 24 SLE... 1999 old style Chevy 2500 with 34k