Forum Discussion
westend
Aug 07, 2014Explorer
First, i would do away with these things you've mentioned: Changing LED's out for regular bulbs (I'd rather have plenty of 12v instead of the 8 BTU's from incandescents), the plywood (I'm camping, not building a garage, too much weight).
Things I would add: Use 1 1/2" extruded polystyrene instead of styrofoam. Duct tape for foam sheets. Extra extruded poly foam for windows, vents and where needed. Large gauge extension cords for adding more than 30 amps of electric. Pipe heat tape for the drain valves/pipes.
Things I know about Winter camping: Skirting is the best. There was a member of the Forum that had skirting around his Arctic Fox that over-wintered in ND. He had weeds growing under the trailer using heat lamps and was able to maintain a very elevated temperature. You will need to tap into more than one 30 amp circuit to use the lamps and the heat tapes. Use a heat tape around the drains, there is too much risk of a broken pipe if the weather turns bad. If I was real serious about Winter camping, I'd do the above and also get a different propane fired cabin heater that wasn't noisy and didn't gobble electric. It needs to be vented, IMO. Your water heater drain should be OK as long as the heater runs. It is connected to the warm tank. Be prepared to deal with condensation inside. You will have it.
FWIW, I've camped for weeks at sub zero, sometimes as low as -30f and things happen (like the entry door freezing) that you wouldn't have considered. You just need to be a Boy Scout and be flexible.
Things I would add: Use 1 1/2" extruded polystyrene instead of styrofoam. Duct tape for foam sheets. Extra extruded poly foam for windows, vents and where needed. Large gauge extension cords for adding more than 30 amps of electric. Pipe heat tape for the drain valves/pipes.
Things I know about Winter camping: Skirting is the best. There was a member of the Forum that had skirting around his Arctic Fox that over-wintered in ND. He had weeds growing under the trailer using heat lamps and was able to maintain a very elevated temperature. You will need to tap into more than one 30 amp circuit to use the lamps and the heat tapes. Use a heat tape around the drains, there is too much risk of a broken pipe if the weather turns bad. If I was real serious about Winter camping, I'd do the above and also get a different propane fired cabin heater that wasn't noisy and didn't gobble electric. It needs to be vented, IMO. Your water heater drain should be OK as long as the heater runs. It is connected to the warm tank. Be prepared to deal with condensation inside. You will have it.
FWIW, I've camped for weeks at sub zero, sometimes as low as -30f and things happen (like the entry door freezing) that you wouldn't have considered. You just need to be a Boy Scout and be flexible.
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