bobndot wrote:
It's fine to check the screen but if it's the hw side then it might not be the screen .
To properly fill the system. Let your connected water supply stop flowing before opening any faucet inside the RV.
Once the water system is pressurized and not flowing, slowly open all of the cold water faucets to expel the air.
Then, slowly open the hot water faucet furthest from the water heater until the air is purged from the line.
Repeat the hot water valve opening for the remaining fixtures until all the fixtures flow without spitting air. The water heater should now have it’s air bubble properly formed at the top of the tank and the system is ready for use.
Long term usage of the water supply will eventually diminish the water heater’s air bubble. The solution to this issue is to simply re-establish the bubble.
(1) Turn off the water supply
(2) Open the RV’s hot water low point drain and a hot water faucet for several minutes.
(3) Close the drain and faucet and slowly reopen the water source.
(4) Slowly open the hot water faucet until the air is expelled from the piping. The air bubble inside the tank should now be re-established.
For full timers, a long term solution to this issue is to install a small thermal expansion tank into the cold water supply plumbing. The expansion tank will completely eliminate the need to maintain the water heater’s air bubble.
This sounds about right. It worked fine for awhile but it is mainly the HW side. I might not have purged all the air out correctly. I will try this out when I get home. Thank you. I am also going to check the screens as well. But I think you might have hit the nail on the head here.