Just got my tongue weighed... :-) and found that I am close to the "bar rating" of the WD hitch. So the question is ... If you are at / near the rating boundary for your WD hitch (bars rated for 600lbs), is it better to move to the next rating (typically 800lbs) or will the significant difference become an issue in terms of "springiness" of the heavier bars? Will the lighter bar be a "safety" issue?

budwich wrote:Just got my tongue weighed... :-) and found that I am close to the "bar rating" of the WD hitch. So the question is ... If you are at / near the rating boundary for your WD hitch (bars rated for 600lbs), is it better to move to the next rating (typically 800lbs) or will the significant difference become an issue in terms of "springiness" of the heavier bars? Will the lighter bar be a "safety" issue?Bigger is not always better. Especially in this case. The bars generally need to match the load as closely as possible. They MUST bend when entering/exiting driveways or going over bumps etc.Too heavy a bar can actually damage the frame. Some manufacturers have ratings in their manuals specifying how heavy a bar can be used with different thickness frames.Now having said that, in SOME cases a slightly stronger or weaker bar can perform better. A lightly sprung TV sometimes will do better with a stronger bar, as it can somewhat make up for the TVs weak springs. There are other ways to accomplish the same thing such as air bags etc.But generally matching the bars to the TW will be the best way to go.

My tongue weight is 720 to 750 most of the time, and I use 1000# bars. I guess the general formula would tell me to go to 800# bars, but my WD dealer strongly suggested I go with 1000#. Works fine, and I'm glad I went heavier.Edit: I would be interested in trying 800# just to compare the two. As it is, I can only guess which is best...

I run a slightly heavier bar with my Reese Dual Cam system

Yeah, heavier bars. Blow the front shocks or bend the rear most axel on the trailer. A truck that has the springs capacity to carry the trailer is the best choice.

My tongue weight is only 420. I have 1000lb bars. I have weak suspension.Huntindog is right on with his reply...Had your tongue weighed??? That means nothing if weighed alone. As when you put on the ball and activate the WD, and when set properly, will take weight off the hitch. How much? Depends if set properly...Mine takes 80 lbs off the hitch and puts it on the trailer. And brings front end back to stock height...

WD Hitch ratings / boundaries | Good Sam Community

Huntindog
Explorer
May 16, 2014
budwich wrote:
Just got my tongue weighed... :-) and found that I am close to the "bar rating" of the WD hitch. So the question is ... If you are at / near the rating boundary for your WD hitch (bars rated for 600lbs), is it better to move to the next rating (typically 800lbs) or will the significant difference become an issue in terms of "springiness" of the heavier bars? Will the lighter bar be a "safety" issue?
Bigger is not always better. Especially in this case. The bars generally need to match the load as closely as possible. They MUST bend when entering/exiting driveways or going over bumps etc.
Too heavy a bar can actually damage the frame. Some manufacturers have ratings in their manuals specifying how heavy a bar can be used with different thickness frames.

Now having said that, in SOME cases a slightly stronger or weaker bar can perform better. A lightly sprung TV sometimes will do better with a stronger bar, as it can somewhat make up for the TVs weak springs. There are other ways to accomplish the same thing such as air bags etc.

But generally matching the bars to the TW will be the best way to go.
classicdude
Explorer
May 16, 2014
My tongue weight is 720 to 750 most of the time, and I use 1000# bars. I guess the general formula would tell me to go to 800# bars, but my WD dealer strongly suggested I go with 1000#. Works fine, and I'm glad I went heavier.
Edit: I would be interested in trying 800# just to compare the two. As it is, I can only guess which is best...
fla-gypsy
Explorer
May 16, 2014
I run a slightly heavier bar with my Reese Dual Cam system
chevor
Explorer
May 16, 2014
Yeah, heavier bars. Blow the front shocks or bend the rear most axel on the trailer. A truck that has the springs capacity to carry the trailer is the best choice.
lawrosa
Explorer
May 17, 2014
My tongue weight is only 420. I have 1000lb bars. I have weak suspension.

Huntindog is right on with his reply...

Had your tongue weighed??? That means nothing if weighed alone. As when you put on the ball and activate the WD, and when set properly, will take weight off the hitch. How much? Depends if set properly...

Mine takes 80 lbs off the hitch and puts it on the trailer. And brings front end back to stock height...
brulaz
Explorer
May 17, 2014
Equal-I-Zer has a little online calculator that helps you decide what size of their hitches to get : Equal-I-Zer

It takes into account trailer weight and tongue weight, as well as cargo behind the TV rear axle.
wmoses
Explorer
May 17, 2014
budwich wrote:
Just got my tongue weighed... :-) and found that I am close to the "bar rating" of the WD hitch. So the question is ... If you are at / near the rating boundary for your WD hitch (bars rated for 600lbs), is it better to move to the next rating (typically 800lbs) or will the significant difference become an issue in terms of "springiness" of the heavier bars? Will the lighter bar be a "safety" issue?

You should not be at a load that is greater than the bars, so yes you should get the 800# bars. They say that heavier bars could lead to 'porpoising' but 1 have 1400/14000 bars (came with the trailer) and I have not had any adverse towing experiences. My tongue load is about 800# and based on say 13% the GVWR should have 1000/10000 bars so my bars are overrated. No problems though.

Too light a bar can be an safely issue since it won't effectively level the truck and that means that the steering axle would be too light in addition to having headlights pointing up and too high and potentially in the eyes of oncoming motorists.
Community Alumni
May 17, 2014
brulaz wrote:
Equal-I-Zer has a little online calculator that helps you decide what size of their hitches to get : Equal-I-Zer

It takes into account trailer weight and tongue weight, as well as cargo behind the TV rear axle.

Yup, it's what I used for my latest hitch and what my rv dealer uses.
lenr
Explorer III
May 17, 2014
Reese/Drawtite rates their bars from 50% to 100% of label, so an 800 lb. bar is good from 400 to 800. I prefer a stiffer ride and have always used heavier bars. The issue of frame bending comes from using bars rated significantly higher than the receiver on the vehicle and driving straight into a ditch where the rear vehicle axle is lots lower that the front axle and the trailer axles. There was a post here years ago of someone doing that to a Tundra.
Tequila
Explorer
May 17, 2014
Thi sis all a bit confuisuibgn to me. I have a 1 ton duaklly with superspings and a Torklift superhitch. I am picking up a trailer with an unloaded hitch weight of 550 lbs. I am thinking pof towing it without the equalizer bars for a day or 2 to test it out. I do not think I will need them, but I am wondering if putting them on with even minor tension will help sway. Curently the rear of the truck is about 3 inches higher than the front unloaded.

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