Weight distribution hitch

Since you already have the system, go ahead and use it. At least try it first, you've got nothing to loose.

Your objective is to distribute the weight to the front wheels of the tow vehicle. Although the bars are for 10,000 pounds, if you don't apply so much tension on them, those bars should make for a little softer ride and still throw the weight to the front. At a certain point if tension is loosened too much, they serve no purpose. So you need to find that sweet spot. That will come by trial and error. If your bars have chains on the end, try adjusting by raising or lowering one link of chain every time you take the camper on the road. If yours has a fixed bracket the bars rest on (like an Equal-i-zer system), then you need to tilt the head of the hitch so the bars are angled down or upward slightly, adjusting the tension.

Either way, I suggest to give it a try first. Also, by the time you load up the camper with everything, you'll find the camper ends up being much heavier than you may think. A slight over-kill? I REALLY do not think so.

Oversized bars can apparently cause frame damage in some situations but in this case you're probably only one size up (1,000lb bars instead of 800's) which is unlikely to be an issue.

There is a very divided camp regarding weight distributing hitches vs. careful loading of the trailer and managing tongue weight. I cant think of any set up other than maybe a 1 ton dually with a tent trailer or a "Scotty" size trailer that won't benefit from utilizing a weight distributing hitch. The ride is so much better. I pull a relatively light trailer compared to the tow rig I have and I would NEVER go any where with out hooking it up. Well, maybe two or three miles to get the tires changed on the trailer or something like that.....and even then, it takes 3 minutes max to install the weight dist. bars.........so I'd likely do it there too!

I agree with Vintage. Other than moving the TT around my home neighborhood I hook up the WD system every time. Tahoe rides better with it and I believe stops better.

The only reason I bought our Reese HP trunion style with 800 lb bars for our Jayco 28RLS is to satisfy the rating of the F250's receiver. The spring bars are on their last link on the chains. Just enough to tilt the shank up in the receiver tube. The rear of the truck sits 2" lower in the rear with the trailer on the ball. The bars pick it back up 1". Front doesn't change either way.
Back in '94, we bought our first TT, 21' Aljo, to tow with our F150. We started with a hulk of a WD hitch. Then a much shorter Quality S WD hitch. Then just a ball on a short ball mount where it towed best of all.

Which means your bars are probably no more than #1000 bars if you put them to full use.

Since you will likely be close to that #1000 tongue weight, plus any additional stuff you put in the back of the truck, you should be fine.

Been using my #1000 bars for 15 years now and doing just fine.

Good luck!

Mitch

I owned a '99 Dodge Dakota (v6) when we purchased our #3500 (GVWR) trailer. With a payload of roughly 900, and tow rating of 5,000 I knew I was pushing the numbers.... A WDH was a must have.

Fast forward...RAM 1500 with over 1600 of payload, I think 10,000 tow?????? I still hook up the WDH. I figured I already own it, the anti-sway alone was worth the install.

I have towed with it and without it (just wanted to feel the difference---so I left the bars off on a short trip). Not a lot of noticable difference as far as squat or loose steering. BIG difference with sway and porpoising.

I say go ahead and use it....makes for a smoother ride.

The critical factor is probably the receiver on your TV. Most can only accommodate a comparatively light tongue weight unless you use a WDH. It can be easy to exceed that rating, yet still have tons of truck payload available...

Thank you all for your information. My TV is a 2006 Dodge Ram Mega Cab SLT 4WD. It has factory installed hitch.