Forum Discussion

Expedition4us's avatar
Expedition4us
Explorer
Jan 10, 2016

Wet insulation

I am new to this forum, so I apologize if I posted this in the wrong area.

I have just purchased a new-to-me 2000 Terry 27x travel trailer. It is a rear bath, bunkhouse model. We got what I thought was a great deal on it because it had some flooring issues. I was told that the toilet valve broke and flooded the rear of the trailer while the owners were gone. They had removed the floor that was visible, and the toilet, and put a replacement peice of subfloor down.

Today I opened it up, and removed the vanity since I figured the water damage continued under there... It did. Unfortunately, the more I open up the more damage I find. I ended up removing the tub also, and what was under it was even worse. The thing that surprised me the most is the amount of water I am finding. There is insulation between the stringers and it is held up by a plastic liner that seals the bottom of the trailer. The more I open, the more soaking wet insulation I find.

Has anyone had any experience with this problem? If so, what was your solution? I don't want to, but I am afraid that I am going to have to open up the whole trailer underneath. This isn't my first camper remodel (I restored a 68 Go-Tag-Along caned ham), but this is the first time seeing something like this.

Thanks,

9 Replies

  • Expedition4us's avatar
    Expedition4us
    Explorer
    Jan 12, 2016
    Let me try this again...

    Here is what I found under the vanity. Just soft wet mush.



    This is what is left of the center stringer. You can also see that the cross support that should run under the rear wall is gone. It just crumbled in my hands as I pulled it out with my fingers. No strength left in it.



    After all this I could see I had to pull the tub. So this is what was left after removing the soaking wet insulation (literally had water dripping from it as I removed it) and shop vac the floor.



    There is nothing left of the stringers, subfloor, or outer boards under the walls anywhere that I have opened up so far.

    I think I am screwed...
  • hohenwald48's avatar
    hohenwald48
    Explorer
    Jan 11, 2016
    Here's some info on how to post pictures.

    http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/15775751.cfm
  • westend's avatar
    westend
    Explorer
    Jan 11, 2016
    Yeah, it can be a Pandora's box digging into what's under the paneling. You have to find the source of any leaks, though and repair the damage. The framing is easy, about as complex as a doghouse.

    Maybe you will get lucky and only find wet insulation around the tanks and not on top. Or, you may be able to reach on top and drag it out without dropping the tanks. Best of luck on that.
  • Expedition4us's avatar
    Expedition4us
    Explorer
    Jan 11, 2016
    They don't want to post correctly for some reason. Sorry

    Almost all of the stringers in the bathroom area are gone. The sub floor just disintegrated, and rear stringer under the rear wall just crumbled apart and now is in the bottom of my shop vac.

    It sounds like you guys are telling me what I was afraid of. That means, I have to drop the black and grey tanks so I can remove this liner and remove all the insulation under the camper.

    I am going to remove the bottom 18" of wall paneling so I can verify that there isn't any water coming down from above. It seems odd that there is as much water still down there from something that they said happened over a year ago. I am afraid that the ceiling is leaking and that is the real cause of all of this.

    Uggh...
  • Expedition4us's avatar
    Expedition4us
    Explorer
    Jan 11, 2016
    I tried to post some pics, but I supect that the files were too large.

    Here are links to the pics:

    http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt291/2002trooper4me/2000%20Terry%2027x/IMG_20160110_134819425_zpsjd4pqsvx.jpg

    http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt291/2002trooper4me/2000%20Terry%2027x/IMG_20160110_134819425_zpsjd4pqsvx.jpg

    http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt291/2002trooper4me/2000%20Terry%2027x/IMG_20160110_174236073_zpsrtawkem4.jpg
  • westend's avatar
    westend
    Explorer
    Jan 11, 2016
    For some reason your pictures have been removed. You know what you have to do, though. I'd suggest, when you have everything removed and new, good wood installed, spray the area with an anti-fungal solution. I just use diluted bleach and an old Windex bottle. It will stop some of the wood eating microbes and eliminate any mold issues, real, or imaginary. I say that last because folks are now moldaphobic, IMO.

    FWIW, when I tackled the bad floor spots in my rig, I got lucky. I was able to replace bad plywood under the walls by pulling all the fasteners and sliding the new sheet under the wall.

    As MFL suggests, using foam board to replace the fiberglass batts is a real good idea. I was just checking on a new-to-me foam insulation board I'm using, Insulfoam. At 70f, the moisture penetration rate is <1%. The absorption rate is <3%. R rating is R 4.5/in.

    In the restoration thread in my signature line, "The Cowboy/Hilton", there are pictures of the extruded foam I installed, throughout.
  • RVcircus's avatar
    RVcircus
    Explorer II
    Jan 11, 2016
    We had the same issue with ours. The roof leaked and the water settled in the underbelly. Our underbelly had so much water trapped that it bulged the liner way out. It was like popping a pool when I poked a knife into it.

    I would recommend removing the fabric that you're seeing and remove the insulation ASAP. Depending on how long it's been like that I'd expect to see some wood damage as well. Just cut & rip so that it starts to dry and you can go back later to pretty it up and re-insulate.
  • MFL's avatar
    MFL
    Nomad II
    Jan 10, 2016
    You will need to remove ALL of the wet insulation. If removing the bottom cover is the easiest way, that is what I would do.

    When replacing the insulation, I would use an extruded solid foam type, even if it means piecing it in. You could fill in cracks, and tough spots with spray foam. When finished, you'd have better insulation, and waterproof as well.

    Jerry

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