I've got a 2010 Heartland Edge, 19' and want to sanitize my fresh water tank. I'm new to all this but I think I can do it myself if I know how to turn ON the bypass. The official manual does not have good pics.Also, how do I drain the fresh water tank? (Keep it simple and pretend I'm in the 4th grade). I'm having trouble on these tanks. I know how to empty the grey and black tank, but in simple terms, how do I drain the FWT?Thank you.

A complete search of the underbelly of your trailer didn’t locate the fresh water drain value? (On your back with eye protection)

1. The water heater by-pass is usually near the water heater tank. It's the red thingy lever. So, as I tell my 4th grader, if it is usually on, so turning it the other way will shut if off, lol.2. There are drain tubes for fresh water tanks underneath your unit. Open it up and set aside the plug and water will drain. Mine have 3 of them for municipal water, fresh water storage tank and hot water tank or lines.And welcome to RVing.Wait for the fun part, dumping and draining the dark water tank.

There are different variations of bypasses. Most I have seen have been located on the back of the water heater. Sometimes you have to remove an access panel or drawer to get to them. They are generally a series of two or three valves. There is generally a cross over pipe between the ingoing water line, and the line leaving the hot water tank. You generally close the one going to the tank, and if it has three, you close the one leaving the tank. You then open the one that diverts the cold water from the inlet pipe to the crossover to the outlet pipe, thereby bypassing the tank. Some have valves in the water bay, but I think they only install them on higher end class A.

If you can find the FW drain, just run a faucet until it’s empty and then dump the gray tank. It will empty faster that way anyway.

Does every water heater have a bypass? Seems like an easy way to save manufacturing cost by not supplying one?

Where's the bypass for the water heater? | Good Sam Community

jdc1
Explorer II
Mar 11, 2020
GrandpaKip wrote:
If you are just sanitizing the FWT, no need to bypass anything. 1/4 cup bleach per 15 gallons added through the tank fill, run water pump through each faucet til you can smell chlorine. Let sit for a couple hours, then drain and rinse til smell is gone.

Adding vinegar after draining the bleached water will help with the bleach smell.
But yea.....clean the fresh tank like grandpa says.
CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Mar 11, 2020
kellem wrote:
CavemanCharlie wrote:
Dick_B wrote:
Does every water heater have a bypass? Seems like an easy way to save manufacturing cost by not supplying one?

My water heater does not have a bypass. I think that because it is mounted under the bed where it is difficult to access they thought it was not needed.

I wish it did have one it sure would make life easier. I could add one but, I'm afraid to mess with the plumbing on my 27 year old TT. It still has the original water heater. Which still has, what looks like, the original anode rod screwed into the back of it. I'm afraid to try and screw it out.

I must ask,
How are you draining the WH without ever removing the anode rod ?
It's 27 yrs old so something is working. Lol

The anode rod on this water heater is on the back of it and not even on the bottom !! It's screwed in about half way up.

There is a drain for the tank on the bottom of the camper that is plumbed into the bottom of the water heater right where the lower water line hooks up.

It looks like a standard RV water heater but, I haven't seen one with this configuration before.
bukhrn
Explorer III
Mar 10, 2020
I have to remove a drawer under the kitchen sink to access the by-pass valve, My Fresh Water drain is right next to the FW tank, under the rear queen.
bid_time
Nomad II
Mar 10, 2020
If you have found the water heater behind the panel on the outside of the trailer, then the by-pass valve(s) will be on the inside of the trailer directly in from of the water heater. You will probably have to take off a panel held on by a couple of screws, or lift a seat cover, or some other such thing. I've even heard of them being inside of a end table.
kellem
Explorer
Mar 10, 2020
CavemanCharlie wrote:
Dick_B wrote:
Does every water heater have a bypass? Seems like an easy way to save manufacturing cost by not supplying one?

My water heater does not have a bypass. I think that because it is mounted under the bed where it is difficult to access they thought it was not needed.

I wish it did have one it sure would make life easier. I could add one but, I'm afraid to mess with the plumbing on my 27 year old TT. It still has the original water heater. Which still has, what looks like, the original anode rod screwed into the back of it. I'm afraid to try and screw it out.

I must ask,
How are you draining the WH without ever removing the anode rod ?
It's 27 yrs old so something is working. Lol
CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Mar 10, 2020
Dick_B wrote:
Does every water heater have a bypass? Seems like an easy way to save manufacturing cost by not supplying one?

My water heater does not have a bypass. I think that because it is mounted under the bed where it is difficult to access they thought it was not needed.

I wish it did have one it sure would make life easier. I could add one but, I'm afraid to mess with the plumbing on my 27 year old TT. It still has the original water heater. Which still has, what looks like, the original anode rod screwed into the back of it. I'm afraid to try and screw it out.
hawkeye-08
Explorer III
Mar 10, 2020
Our first trailer had 3 valves to bypass water heater. Our current trailer just has one valve. Dad had a trailer that didn't come with bypass, he had dealer install it when they winterized it for the first winter.
GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Mar 10, 2020
If you are just sanitizing the FWT, no need to bypass anything. 1/4 cup bleach per 15 gallons added through the tank fill, run water pump through each faucet til you can smell chlorine. Let sit for a couple hours, then drain and rinse til smell is gone.
kellem
Explorer
Mar 10, 2020
OP, the Fresh water tank has to be equipped with a drain, it will be a single not far from tank.
Just don't confuse it with your low point drains,configured in doubles.
kellem
Explorer
Mar 10, 2020
Every trailer that I've owned and the ones I've helped the owners winterize have all had bypass valves.
When these valves are turned inline with the lines, water can access the water heater and visa versa.

What surprises me is seeing brand new trailers NOT being equipped with winterization kit, easy install but still.

I know several who actually use 9 gals of RV antifreeze to winterize simply because they won't bypass the water heater. Lol