twodownzero wrote:
Buzzcut1 wrote:
the axel on the SRW is the same as on the DRW you will be fine.
This is often repeated on here but is certainly not true for some trucks and may not be true for any trucks. GM for example uses 1/4" wall tubing for its SRW trucks and 1/2" wall for DRW, even though the center section is the same. Just because an axle uses the same ring and pinion section does not make it the same. Many SRW trucks do have 1/2" wall tubing though, even older ones, so it depends on the truck specifically.
OP: are you sure there are no 18 or 20 inch tires that will support the weight you're carrying? The reason I say this is that conventional light truck tires will have MUCH better traction on soft surfaces, both because they are wider and because they are softer. Truck tires are rated to carry their full weight capacity for the life of the tire, so you do not need a weight cushion. Even though 19.5" tires might have a tread that looks aggressive compared to steer type tires, I think you're going to be surprised at how little traction they offer with the stiff sidewalls and hard rubber compound. 19.5 tires are designed primarily for weight carrying and stability. Vehicles with 19.5" tires are primarily local delivery trucks like you'd see UPS and FedEx use, as well as tow trucks and similar. Outside of the military, medium duty trucks are seldom used off road, and the military uses very aggressive tires compared to what most pickup truck owners would use. If this compromise is necessary for the weight capacity, then obviously don't overload your tires, but you are going to be surprised at the lack of traction compared to light truck tires--that is why no light truck comes with 19.5" wheels and tires.
twodownzero brings up excellent points.
In newer (17up) Ford drw trucks and chassis cabs using the Dana M300 cast center Salisbury style drive axle, there are different specifications for what in name and appearance are the same axle, but are fitted with different components (such as axle tubes, having the same outside diameter but different wall thickness) depending on the vehicle application.
On the OP's 2000 Ford, there can be U joint size and design differences (ie double cardan vs single cardan, 1410 vs 1480) in the driveline that are not readily visible when comparing the axle specs in the source book.
One observation that I find interesting, is that better than half the respondents to this thread speak in past tense in terms of what 19.5 tires they ran on their SRWs. Why past tense? Because they are in duallys now. In 20 years of reading truck and rv forums, I've read this time and time and time again, where after pouring money into air bags, stable loads, timbrens, hellwigs, riderites, airlifts, torklifts, and yes, 19.5" tires and wheels... these owners still end up finally giving up and moving up to a vehicle rated for the heavy camper they are hauling along with the trailer they are towing.
Not everyone, but I think anyone who has been only on this forum for any length of time can attest to the number of folks who, instead of tacking on parts to try increase the carrying capacity of their truck... go ahead and get a different truck that is professionally engineered and rated for the capacity.
19.5" tires have good points and bad points. The bad points are the fact that they can't be aired down, they can't float over sand, they can't be aired up at just any gas station, because the compressors at podunk gas stations off the beaten path often run out of umph at 75 psi, when you need at least 80 or 90 to achieve the load rating, and, they are not readily replaced off the beaten path either.
On the highways, in cities, at truck stops, no problems airing up or finding replacements. But the idea of truck camping is to get away from it all, right?
I just want to dispel the notion that 19.5" tires are impervious to failure (I've had more blow outs in 19.5 tires than any other type of tire I've ever road on, including bicycle tires going back to 1960's). They are expensive (I last paid over $400 per tire). And they will not last forever (the rubber casing ages out just like any other tire).
Then there is this notion of "just a few dollars more". A 225 tire size is $400, while a 245 is $410, and a 265 is only $420. "Well heck for less 1/8 th of just the sales tax alone, I can get a 265!" But that isn't really a bargain. It is a trojan horse. More unsprung weight, higher minimum pressure, bumpier ride, less sidewall and shoulder support from the wheel that is typically too narrow for that size, etc.
Bigger has more weight carrying capacity, but that doesn't mean that is the better tire choice. Real safety is found in the balance of elements in the entire system.
Another forum phenomenon regularly observed, and even evidenced in this thread, is the tire selection. Almost always, the folks who do enter into the 19.5 class of tire as an aftermarket replacement... almost always they choose the aggressive all terrain max traction types of tread patterns. Then the second time around, they start thinking about closed shoulders on the steer axle, instead of open shoulders. They start thinking about rolling resistance reduction and fuel economy. They start thinking about noise.
The OP is smart to stop and ask for this experience. I would be more inclined to select a tire based on where I've been, not based on where I imagine I'd like to go. I've imagined fording streams and forging fire roads through forests so deep they haven't been mapped on google yet, but in reality, most of travel time has been on asphalt or gravel. So rather than buy a military tread that can grab boulders through the Hammers, perhaps the a tire that has good stone ejection for the gravel I drive through would be more appropriate. That's just a hypothetical example.
In my specific case, my biggest concern in tire selection was wet traction and black ice. Tread life didn't matter, as I can get 100K miles out of any tire (my wife has gotten 140K miles out of her tires). Driving style, alignments, and pressure maintenance remain in my control, but not the weather. I can choose not to drive in the snow, but I can't avoid rain and bridges below freezing. I'm fooling myself if I think that I can really manage ice, so that leaves wet traction as the one characteristic to prioritize with tire selection.
Siping is said to be an important element in tire treads that enhances wet traction. I learned, right here on the truck camping forum of RV.net, about Michelin's replacement of the XDE tire, called the XDS2. A member here mounted the XDS2 on his GM 4500 chassis cab, and I noticed all of the factory cut sipes in each tread block... almost 1,000 sipes in all, per tire, when roughly doing the math.
From what I was best able to ascertain, the siping, and the tread pattern of the XDS2 was optimal for avoiding hydroplaning. The XDS2 is noisy, and I don't have them on the steer axle, because they are open shouldered. But I couldn't help but notice that the poster above is on his second set. Given how expensive these tires are, to buy them again is something that caught my eye. I'm still on my first set, from 2011, so they are technically aged out now, but are hardly even worn. I've never rotated them. 225 size, 31.5" diameter.
I clicked on this thread because I am looking to address the aged out issue with new tires. Kind of a shame to throw such good tires away. The curb guards built into the sidewalls have been really nice when trying to tuck a DRW as close to the curb as possible.